Need some cz help ...plz

[agent88]

I'm about to swap out the firing pin on a sp01.

Does it matter which direction I drive the pin out?

Is there actually two pins in one so I drive the smaller pin out of the bigger pin first or drive then both out as if they were one big pin?

Do I apply any oil to the new pin and spring?

Got my cgw parts today. I'm changing the FP. trigger. Hammer. Removing FP block. Changing 3 springs.

I've read a few threads but not found much on you tube. A little nervous but I do at least understand what parts need to be changed and where they are.. lol

[maylebox]

I'm about to swap out the firing pin on a sp01.

Does it matter which direction I drive the pin out?

Is there actually two pins in one so I drive the smaller pin out of the bigger pin first or drive then both out as if they were one big pin?

Do I apply any oil to the new pin and spring?

Got my cgw parts today. I'm changing the FP. trigger. Hammer. Removing FP block. Changing 3 springs.

I've read a few threads but not found much on you tube. A little nervous but I do at least understand what parts need to be changed and where they are.. lol

I would confirm my information before proceeding: I believe your firing pin retaining pin can be driven out either way. It should be one pin even if it looks like two it comes out like one. Look closely at the replacement pin from CGW it may have a flat side and a rounded side. When installing it you will want to tap your punch/hammer on the flat slide. It can be a real pain to get in. If you use the punch/hammer on the rounded side it may slip off and scratch your slide (ask me how I know). I don't generally lube my springs but I use the thinnest of coats (think trace amount) on the pin. I did the same CGW work to my P01 and it came out great (except for the idiot mark I left on the frame when reinstalling the fp retaining pin). Visit the original cz forum and there is a bunch of info, ask David at CGW these questions and he will be very helpful. Have fun, it's not hard but go slow the first time and make sure you have the proper tools.

[agent88]

^^^

Thanks... I got the FP out.

I read some where that the FP pin was actually two in one and I was expecting it to be really hard to drive out but it wasn't.

The OEM pin has some oil on it so I guess cz wasn't too worried about oil attracting grime...

[agent88]

[agent88]

That went well.
So much for the easy part.

Now to get the sear cage out.

[CAGLS]

Just place your hand over it when the springs release or do it in a large clear plastic bag.

[agent88]

Right now I'm more afraid the safety detents are going to fly away... lol

[nahpungnome]

yeah that firing pin retaining pin is a pita... I wish it was designed like the 1911 so you don't have to play wackamole with it.

[CAGLS]

It makes it easier if you have a cup tipped punch so it is less likely to slip when trying to drive the pin out.

[agent88]

So far so good...

[agent88]

[guest1]

Keep those step by steps coming. I need to do this to my P-01 next week. Good job OP

[agent88]

^ oem hammer vrs. race hammer





Well the build has come to a screeching halt. lol

Originally I emailed CGW explaining what I wanted to do and they promptly emailed me back a list of parts recommend to accomplish this.

I'm a hands on type and just looking at a parts diagram doesn't do much for me.

Well I carefully ordered the parts listed in the email including 1x hpin.

The hammer requires 2 pins and that is pretty clearly stated on their web site and I pretty clearly missed that but they ship fast so should be here by Wednesday.

A few observations so far.

I will update after I've done the hammer but the two hammer pins are the only pins that I now expect to be a little hard to remove and install and I expect I'll use my vise as a press to install them. They must be hard to remove as CGW sells a specific punch to get them moving.

None of the other pins so far has been a problem or any more difficult than anything else I have worked on.

The only spring that has gone flying was the trigger pin but thanks to a previous post I was ready for that so no big deal.

The magazine guide pin and the trigger pin only remove in one direction take a close look at those.

The new flat trigger captures pin #9 to the left so don't drive it in to far. The OEM trigger just let's the pin float.

I'll spend the time waiting for the hammer pin to do some polishing.

[callmecarlito]

Thanks for this. I'll be bookmarking this to use as a reference soon.

[nahpungnome]

wait what? you're putting a flat trigger and using 2 hammer pins? no no no, you don't put the disconnector on, only the hammer strut.