Chiappa Rhinos

[Dannicus]

This is how I took care of it. Light polish/removal of rust and original finish with steel wool. Then clean with cleaner of your choice (rubbing alcohol works, just to get rid of lube and oil). Then, apply Birchwood Casey's Cold Blue per directions on the bottle. Once the Cold Blue is set, I cleaned everything and applied a coating of Frog Lube paste after a quick blast with heat gun at lowest setting. Let the Frog Lube dry to a film and wipe off excess. Two years since, so far so good.

It wasn't bad enough that I had to go through that much. Just some slight spotty discoloration and some obvious red showing on the drag line. I just rubbed it down with an oiled cloth and put on a coat of gun wax. It's not noticeable now and it was only on one face of the cylinder.

[Cato]

Wow, what a beautiful gun!

I've never heard of Chiappa Firearms before.

[Dannicus]

Wow, what a beautiful gun!

I've never heard of Chiappa Firearms before.

It's good that you havent heard of them. Most people know of them from their mediocre .22lr 1911.

[Dannicus]

I gotta add, dry fire these guns with snap caps. I ended up with a loosened firing pin retaining screw from dry firing. It caused light strikes. Not a big deal if you are inclined to take something like the rhino apart, but it's no walk in the park if you are used to 1911s or other easily stripped guns.

[Gio]

Got to see him take the first shots with it yesterday. Very nice piece indeed.

[manywelps]

I gotta add, dry fire these guns with snap caps. I ended up with a loosened firing pin retaining screw from dry firing. It caused light strikes. Not a big deal if you are inclined to take something like the rhino apart, but it's no walk in the park if you are used to 1911s or other easily stripped guns.

I heard of this, I think that orange ring that comes with it acts as a kind of firing pin shock absorber if you want to dry fire a lot (at least it looks like it).

Got to see him take the first shots with it yesterday. Very nice piece indeed.

Nice to see you on here

[Dannicus]

I heard of this, I think that orange ring acts as a kind of shock absorber if you want to dry fire a lot (at least it looks like it).

Nice to see you on here

That thing will quickly disintegrate if you dry fire with it. Just get some zooms.

[manywelps]

That thing will quickly disintegrate if you dry fire with it. Just get some zooms.

Yeah I have them.

It's just that the orange/red ring that goes between the cylender and the firing face looks like it's designed to absorb the strike. (You can see it in the bottom 2 pictures)

[roger1022]

With the internals looking so complicated, I wonder how it's supposed to be cleaned.

Did see some posts about guys who took theirs apart and had to send it back to Chiappa to be reassembled.

[manywelps]

With the internals looking so complicated, I wonder how it's supposed to be cleaned.

Very carefully?

Did see some posts about guys who took theirs apart and had to send it back to Chiappa to be reassembled.

Wow, that's pretty silly. Take pictures as you disassemble it?

[roger1022]

Very carefully?

Wow, that's pretty silly. Take pictures as you disassemble it?

Based on what I've read, sounds like they just took them apart. So how does it go back together again?

Just wondering how dirty the action gets and how often it needs to be cleaned.

[Dannicus]

With the internals looking so complicated, I wonder how it's supposed to be cleaned.

Did see some posts about guys who took theirs apart and had to send it back to Chiappa to be reassembled.

Most users should not have to take the thing apart. The stuff under the hood doesn't see much contamination from firing and as long as there is enough lube from the factory, it shouldn't need attention. It's the same with most double action revolvers.

[manywelps]

Just wondering how dirty the action gets and how often it needs to be cleaned.

I don't think anything is going to get back to that area; there's no path for gasses to get into the grip area, unlike an autoloader.

[roger1022]

Most users should not have to take the thing apart. The stuff under the hood doesn't see much contamination from firing and as long as there is enough lube from the factory, it shouldn't need attention. It's the same with most double action revolvers.

I don't think anything is going to get back to that area; there's no path for gasses to get into the grip area, unlike an autoloader.

Thanks for the insight.

[Dannicus]

Yeah I have them.

It's just that the orange/red ring that goes between the cylender and the firing face looks like it's designed to absorb the strike. (You can see it in the bottom 2 pictures)

That ring isn't meant to absorb force from the firing pin. It doesn't do very well at absorbing shock to slow the firing pin, nor will it last long if used for that purpose. It's basically just a chamber flag.

Also, if you don't use moon clips with A-zooms, the rims of the A-zooms will get eaten up.