CZ75 SA and the horrid reset

[mievil]

I just got my 75 SA out of jail about a week and a half ago.

I have an SP-01 that is converted to SAO with CGW parts. Love the SP-01. A lot. A lot a lot. trigger breaks at 2.8 pounds and the reset is very close to right after you release the trigger.

Now. The reset on the 75 SA is almost all the way out on the trigger release. One could almost say that the reset doesn't happen until the trigger is released all the way.

I want to make this shorter. Way shorter. I actually really like the initial trigger pull. It is at about 4.6 pounds. Very nice. I just hate the reset. I sent an email to David at CGW and he said the short reset kit would drop the reset about 50%. I asked about the firing pin block removal and he said that would be the greatest benefit on reset length fix. So I put my SP-01 slide on the 75 SA frame and didn't notice any difference at all.

Has anyone actually put only the CGW short reset kit on their SA? I know the hammer and sear and springs will do wonders. But I am really only interested in changing the reset and the sights on this one. The SP-01 is fantastic in it's form right now. So I don't want to do a full conversion on the SA.

I just want to fix this damn reset.

[BEE]

My SA is fairly new and so far I just did a simple polish job on the trigger internals, but didn't rework the hammer hooks or sear yet. I also removed the FPB. The trigger feels pretty smooth now, however the reset is still noticeable. At this point I want to test it as it is first before I decide what to improve upon next.

Eventually I want to go all out with my SA, but in baby steps. I just like to see it go through it's paces

[mievil]

I feel the same way. But I want to fix the reset. Badly. It is seriously all the way out on the trigger until the reset actually happens. I thought the Hi Power was bad. Then I got this guy. Dang. The trigger pull itself I think is great. It's just the reset that I hate.

[gorenut]

You might have to look into getting the competition hammer. The change geometry does change the weight and how the trigger feels. Not 100% sure it'll change the reset though.

[mievil]

I know that changing the hammer and sear will do exactly what I want.

However, I'm trying to find out if anyone has tried just the short reset kit on the SA.

[CAGLS]

If you want the shortest reset remove the fpb, remove the disconnector, replace the fpb lifter with the CGW spacer or replace sear with pre B sear, adjust the pre and over travel set screws if that trigger has both if not replace it with the CZ straight trigger which does have both adjustments. That will make the reset as short as the SAO Shadow and remove just about all the pretravel with the shortest trigger stroke in SA. This would also be a good time to install a comp hammer.

[railroader]

The firing pin block is what causes the reset to be so long. The sear resets way before the FPB. Take out the FPB, replace the FPB lifter with a spacer then get a straight adjustable trigger. With the straight trigger you can adjust it so it only goes forward enough to reset the sear. You will have minimal take up and reset. My 75SA is set up this way with a CZ custom hammer. The trigger pull is short with a short reset similar to a good 1911 trigger.

[schmeky]

railroader is correct,

The sear resets way before the FP block lifter arm. BTW, swapping slides will show no benefit since the actual reset takes place in the frame.

However, it takes 2 parts to have an SRS: a low-lift firing pin and a modified short arm lifter. Impossible to have an SRS with only one of these.

So the advice of removing the FP block and installing a fully adjustable trigger is dead on. Then you will have a super short reset and retain the SA pull weight you currently have.

[BEE]

Looks like i'll be getting the straight SAO trigger next I do want a trigger similar to a 1911.

[anothergunnut]

I handled a CZ 75 SAO in the LGS the other day. I was surprised at how much take up is in the trigger. I was expecting something like my SA 1911 but it felt more like a traditional double action with all that take up.

[mievil]

Hmmmm.....still a little confused in that the SP-01 slide has the FPB removed, so the lifter arm in the frame is actually not contacting anything. This makes me assume that the short reset kit would still have more contact than what I have right now with the frankengun.

Or are you saying the bottom edge of the lever actually engages something internally making the reset what it is? So what I do to the top end has no effect? That makes a little more sense.

[Euphoria526]

All you need is time my friend. It'll smoothen out before you know it. Can't expect to get the best trigger out if the box now.

[DannyZRC]

the reset occurs on the disconnector, even if you switch slides as long as the disconnector is the same in the frame the reset will remain.

the disconnector for FPB equipped guns sets the reset forward to be able to re-engage and restroke the FPB lifter through its travel, as the FPB lifter arm drops when the disconnector is tripped.

without an FPB, or with shorter FPB lift stroke geometry, you can use a different disconnecter that places the reset closer to the sear break.

[CAGLS]

the reset occurs on the disconnector, even if you switch slides as long as the disconnector is the same in the frame the reset will remain.

the disconnector for FPB equipped guns sets the reset forward to be able to re-engage and restroke the FPB lifter through its travel, as the FPB lifter arm drops when the disconnector is tripped.

without an FPB, or with shorter FPB lift stroke geometry, you can use a different disconnecter that places the reset closer to the sear break.

That is why on all my SAO conversions I remove the fpb, replace the lifter with a spacer, install the Cz sao straight trigger, and remove the dicsconnector completely which will result in the shortest possible reset and SA trigger stroke after adjustment of pre and overtravel set screws. This was instructed to me by David of CGW.

[railroader]

Hmmmm.....still a little confused in that the SP-01 slide has the FPB removed, so the lifter arm in the frame is actually not contacting anything. This makes me assume that the short reset kit would still have more contact than what I have right now with the frankengun.

Or are you saying the bottom edge of the lever actually engages something internally making the reset what it is? So what I do to the top end has no effect? That makes a little more sense.

The reset is in the frame. If you just remove the FPB it isn't going affect pull but slightly. The lifter for the FPB is what is actually reseting. You can't just remove the lifter because your gun wouldn't fire if the FPB block is still in the slide. Both need to go.

Also a 75sa doesn't have a disconnector. Disconnectors are on the da/sa guns. There actually is no place for one on a stock sa hammer.