Need input on APEX trigger options for M&P handguns

[rugersigkimber]

I hear and have experienced the less than optimal trigger in the M&P9, M&P40, and Shield.

I've been to the APEX site to look at the options, and there are many.

If the goal is to shorten the reset, smooth out the feel, and have more of an audible trigger reset sound, which is the best option:

- APEX M&P Aluminum Action Enhancement Trigger - $79.95 (Just the trigger)
- APEX M&P Duty/Carry Action Enhancement Kit - $92.95 (Just the action)
- APEX M&P Competition Action Enhancement Kit - $97.95 (Just the action)
- APEX M&P Polymer Forward Set Sear and Trigger Kit - $129.95 (trigger and action)
- APEX M&P Aluminum Forward Set Sear and Trigger Kit - $164.95 (trigger and action)

Here are my questions:

1. Does anyone have any experience with the polymer trigger vs the aluminum trigger?
2. What is the benefit of doing the complete FSS trigger kit over just the action enhancement kit or just the enhancement trigger?
3. Has anyone done the complete FSS trigger kit? What were the benefits?

I've read in the forums about people doing the DCAEK but not the complete FSS trigger kit.

I'm trying to get this cleared up as to which option will be the best for me...so knowing what each does would help.

Thanks in advance.

[pc_load_letter]

I have the Duty\Carry kit as well as the polymer trigger.

The reset is surely shortened but there is no audible click.

So when you get into a gun fight, are you going to wait for the audible click when returning fire?

1. The polymer trigger feels good to me.
2. Some people don't like the two piece stock trigger and choose to swap it out.
3. It shoots better.

You could probably get tons of info over in the S&W board at ar15 dot com or even at the smith and wesson forums. http://smith-wessonforum.com/forum.php

Best of luck in your selection!

[choprzrul]

Call Apex. Great people and I've had nothing but excellent experiences with them.

.

[hossb7]

I have the DCAEK, Polymer AEK trigger and RAM. I have the exact trigger you're describing.

[peter209]

The fss kit and trigger give you the shortest travel and best feel for a trigger. It's designed for competition or range shooting, meaning not the ideal trigger for carrying/duty. I have it on my m&p that I have set up as a race gun. The aek kit and trigger give you a longer pull with a stable pull weight ideal for duty/carry. Not to say it wouldn't be beneficial at the range, lord knows it's still better than the factory trigger. The aek kit feels like a improved quality trigger that should come on the gun from the get go. The fss trigger kit feels like a true competition trigger and is just on another level. I have both and love both but each is designed for a specific purpose. Either way you go you'll be happier than you were with the factory trigger set up. Go with the full kit, it's totally worth it. If you install the kit by yourself and install it piece by piece starting with the trigger. Every time you install a piece, reassemble the gun with just that one new piece and dry fire it. It's a long process but this way you can actually feel what each piece brings to the gun and realize that the whole kit is worth it.

[ODub]

I have the Duty/Carry kit on two guns and it is great. Buttery smooth, but the long pull is still there and the reset isn't too pronounced. I think that the emphasis on reset is overblown, though.

The primary difference between the polymer FSS and aluminum FSS is that the polymer version has a rounded edge at its side and the aluminum version has a 90 degree angle.

I recently installed the aluminum FSS kit on a Pro model that already had a pretty nice trigger from the factory. The difference is stunning. It's the shortest travel that I've ever experienced and the sights will not wiggle at all after the sear breaks the shot. I had to adjust a little as my finger was searching front half of the trigger guard for the trigger, but the FSS has it set up in the rear third. Additionally, the overtravel is so short that it doesn't even reach the physical stop behind the trigger. Like it said, it's amazingly short.

One caveat: the safety in the middle of the FSS is only effective after you fully rack the slide with your finger off of the trigger, i.e. you are loading the gun to place into a holster or onto your bedside table. If you take a shot or dry fire the gun, then let out the trigger normally, the safety bow will not fully re-engage and the trigger can be pulled from its sides without the trigger safety being depressed. This is only my experience and YMMV. I am confident in my own trigger finger discipline and this issue is not a deal breaker for me.

[taifei]

FSS kit is definitely my favorite and changes the trigger quite a bit by losing the hinge. Depending on where you place your finger on the trigger, the safety can catch the edge slightly. I have it installed on my 9FS. I have the competition springs as well but I still have an issue with the hinged trigger. I have that on my 9L. I feel like both are still a big upgrade over their new triggers such as the shield.

[jkgts1]

I got the Apex kit for my shield with metal trigger, best money spent in my opinion. For some reason my finger kept cramping/ hurt after pulling the stock trigger a few times. Might have been just a clash in ergonomics with my hand/ finger. After the install it was awesome no more pain and supper smooth pull.

[sholling]

I have the full duty/carry kit with aluminum trigger in a Shield, a FSS Duty/Carry kit with a polymer trigger in a full sized M&P, and a competition kit with a stock trigger in another M&P.

My favorite of the ones that I have is the FSS Duty/Carry kit with an Apex made trigger which to me as an old 1911 guy is a fine defensive trigger kit for a striker-fired polymer pistol. It has a short, crisp and clean, almost (but not quite) 1911ish trigger pull that breaks at your choice of 4 or 5-1/2lbs. With the short almost 1911ish trigger pull I'd like it better if that pistol had a safety (for holstering) but at 5lbs IMO it isn't too light for defensive use. This M&P is older and has the RAM kit installed and it works as advertised.

The competition kit when used with a stock trigger is a long but crisp and clean 3lbs with a quick reset. Newer M&Ps will not accept the RAM kit but if you have an "H" marked trigger bar (the newest version) the reset is plenty audible and tactile for my taste. If I did not have to keep the stock trigger I'd change it for an Apex aluminum trigger in a heartbeat.

The Apex Shield kit with aluminum trigger has a slightly shorter but much cleaner pull that's about 1lb lighter (5-1/2lbs) than it was before I started and is in my opinion worth the money.

As for aluminum vs polymer, the more round edged polymer trigger is more comfortable, but I like the flatter face of the aluminum trigger better and it feels more solid.

[9mmepiphany]

If the goal is to shorten the reset

To shorten the reset, you're going to have to get one of the kits with the trigger

1. Does anyone have any experience with the polymer trigger vs the aluminum trigger?

The only difference is the rounded edges on the polymer trigger

2. What is the benefit of doing the complete FSS trigger kit over just the action enhancement kit or just the enhancement trigger?

Just installing the trigger does nothing to smooth the action or improve the letoff.

The FSS compared to the AEK is worlds apart. The AEK makes optimized the trigger without changing any trigger geometry. The FSS makes the trigger everything it can be

3. Has anyone done the complete FSS trigger kit? What were the benefits?

I have the complete FSS on my IDPA gun and prefer it's rolling letoff to my custom 1911's sharper letoff.

It shortens the takeup, over travel and reset. My trigger is running about 3lbs

[teflondog]

If you just want to shorten the reset point and lighten the trigger pull, the Apex sear is all you need IMO. The Apex sear shortens the reset by contacting the trigger bar loop in the later stage of the pull. This delays the trigger break towards the very end of the pull, which results in a longer takeup. It's hard to explain unless you have the slide off and look at how the trigger bar loop interacts with the sear when you pull the trigger. The Burwell trigger job instruction pdf, which can be downloaded free, illustrates this well.

The top is the stock sear. Apex sear is on the bottom. The stock sear has a roundish nub that makes contact with the trigger bar loop in the early stage of the pull while the Apex sear has a more pointed nub.

[banzaijohn]

For the best reset, use S&W's newest SHB with the large bore sear plunger and spring. G&R Tactical sells them complete with a Performance Center Sear

http://www.gandrtactical.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=42342

I think this SHB gives a better, positive and audible reset versus Apex RAM, but you can add Apex components and achieve a shorter reset and lower pull weight. Stock with this SHB will be 6.5 lbs. You should easily be able to hit 4lbs with the FSS kit. The other thing you didn't mention, but is needed is the FRE, Failure Resistant Extractor. Apex's FRE is pricey, but it is worth the money for consistent trouble free extraction.