How easy to install CZ CGW Short Reset System?

[pdoggeth]

Hi Folks

I recently joined the cult of CZ and picked up a 75B SS. Also I do have an SP01 waiting in-line for DROS in July. They are fine weapons.

Having said that, I am thinking about reducing the SA trigger pull with the Cajun Gun Works Short Reset System. However, I am a noob and have never installed anything like this before -- well I have replaced my Beretta 92fs's stock hammer with a skeleton one, but that was easy peas. I was just wondering how hard would it be to do this trigger job myself. I don't mind paying the fee to have CGW do it, but I would like the satisfaction of doing it myself.

Just wondering if anyone else has done this themselves and to get some input as to how difficult it is.

Thanks.

[IeatPi]

I haven't done that particular system, but I have done work that involves all of those parts. Super easy. Just do it!

[echopapa]

I'm in the same boat too - trigger jobs for 75B SA and SP-01. Considering doing it myself (is it easy), send it to CGW or find local gunsmith who can do it (Bay Area/Sac area)?

What say you?

[CAGLS]

On a CZ SP-01 manual safety dis-assembly is fairly simple. You will need a starter punch, which CGW sells, to remove the hammer pins from the hammer strut. A dremel and polishing wheels to polish the contact surfaces. Purchase some extra L springs that go on the firing pin block lifter and at least a couple if not more CGW hammer pins. Since it is apart you can replace the stock hammer with CGW's stainless comp hammer and lightened trigger return spring along with either the old or new 85C trigger which will benefit shortening the SA trigger pull because of the over travel adjustment.

The first is a break down tutorial. The second is what and how to smooth out the fcg.

CZ Tuning 101 with Professor Atlas and Smoothing the action

This one is for a decocker CZs but still a good tutorial by zfields.

Disassembly and polishing CZ SP01 Tactical or phantom / cz 75BD / P01 *PIC HEAVY*


Here's my SP-01 Tactical I recently polished the trigger group, installed the CGW short reset, older 85c trigger, and CZ decocker comp hammer:





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[IeatPi]

I don't think you need to remove the hammer pins on the SRS. It looks like it's just a modified FPB lifter.

[CAGLS]

I don't think you need to remove the hammer pins on the SRS. It looks like it's just a modified FPB lifter.

Along with the modified fpb lifter, the SRS kit should also include replacing the stock disconnector with either the CGW drop in disconnector or the fitted disconnector which you will need to remove at least one hammer pin. The disconnector is what will remove most of the slack in SA and set the trigger pull starting point to the rear further. Be sure to order the correct disconnector whether you retain your fpb or you have a Shadow that does not have a fpb.

[IeatPi]

Disco isn't shown in the pic from CGW for the SRS. It's on the same page, but didn't look like it was included. Disregard if it is. Sorry.

[CAGLS]

Disco isn't shown in the pic from CGW for the SRS. It's on the same page, but didn't look like it was included. Disregard if it is. Sorry.

It's not included but that is why it's on the same page as it is an important part of the SRS system. Without replacing the disconnector, you will have even more slack in SA since you've shortened the reset by replacing the fpb lifter with the modified one.

[nahpungnome]

Easy is relative. My SP-01 I sent in to CGW, while my 97B I did myself (except the 1911 bushing and sights). I didn't think it was too easy to do the first time, but after getting the hang of it, I know what to do. The replacement parts are easier to work with than the OEM parts, such as the trigger pin and hammer pins.

I did mine without a vice, but I wish I had one. Also a bench block is nice, which I had. A starter punch is a must as CAGLS mentioned. Take your time, I took around 4 hours to get it done because I was so nervous. Now that I've done it, I can easily do it WAY faster.

[pdoggeth]

Thanks guys, after looking at the provided links and guides, I think I'll try this myself for the stainless. If everything goes well, I'll do the same for the sp01 tactical when it comes in July.

[garciav58]

Feel free to call and ask the CGW regarding any questions. I can't remember his name, but he's the only person that answers the line.

He's always willing to help.

[glockmeister]

OP - fairly easy to do. I was intimidated when I first read and watched the videos on how to disassemble, polish, etc. I took the plunge and ordered up CGW parts and installed them myself. Pretty easy to do and go slow.

I tuned a SP-01 Safety to be butter smooth and a SP-01 Tactical to SAO. Love that thing!!! Kitchen table fun-smithing FTW!!

[IMG][/IMG]

[zfields]

Just feel lucky you don't have to work on a decocker. The sear cage is much easier to mess with.


They are a little intimidating to work on the first time, once you see the relation of the parts (The CZ parts diagram is incredibly helpful), it's not bad.

[glockmeister]

The hardest part of working on the decocker model was figuring out how to the heck to remove the decock lever!!

I agree, it's a PITA, but not much more the safety model if you have a slave pin to hold the sear cage in place. I believe the sear pin comes with the punch from CGW. if not, use a q tip cut to the right size.

[zfields]

The hardest part of working on the decocker model was figuring out how to the heck to remove the decock lever!!

I agree, it's a PITA, but not much more the safety model if you have a slave pin to hold the sear cage in place. I believe the sear pin comes with the punch from CGW. if not, use a q tip cut to the right size.

I think its worth it to take it apart to clean up some of the components. Putting it back together isn't bad once you have done it a couple times.