RIA 2011 tac trigger help

[Alan Chen]

Hi Guys,

I tried to google the answer, but didn't really find much knowledge. Figured the 1911 gurus here can help. I apologize in advance if I get the terminology wrong. I like to shoot but not so much tinker or clean

I shot my friends Colt 80 series 1911 and my RIA 2011 side by side. Other than obvious fit and finish difference, the trigger on the Colt was much nicer! No slack at all, just a crisp break and a longish reset.

I noticed my RIA has a little bit of uptake before the trigger is ready to break. The break is nice and clean and so is the reset. I was looking at the trigger assembly and noticed that when I depress the trigger, the trigger bar bends the sear spring just a bit before it drops the hammer. My question is, would a new sear spring remove that slight uptake in my trigger pull or is it much more involved than that?

[redcliff]

I've never seen, nor worked upon, a 2011 internals. However on a standard 1911 trigger pre travel is set by bending adjusting tabs or welding and filing a fitting pad on the front of the trigger bow near the shoe.

On a standard 1911 the three leg sear spring only contacts the grip safety, sear, and disconnector. The rear of the trigger bow contacts the disconnector. While changing your sear spring may change your trigger pull weight (for better or worse) and possibly adversely affect your pistols operation if the weights are not set properly, it should not affect (or improve) your trigger pre-travel.

[5ZS]

2011 for RIA means rail, right? Still a single stack 1911.

Easiest way to remove pre-travel/uptake in a 1911 is a simple trigger replacement.

Get a trigger with a takeup tab. More than likely it will have a overtravel screw as well. If your Rock is like mine, it has neither.
These two have them:

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/746161/sti-trigger-1911-long-polymer-black

http://www.brownells.com/handgun-parts/trigger-group-parts/triggers/1911-auto-lightweight-trigger-prod9579.aspx

Right behind the triggger, you see those cut out. Basically those are bent out, pushing your trigger placement back already.

Of course, do not over adjust or your trigger will not work properly.
It's not difficult to fit and adjust the trigger (not a trigger job), just search online for some guides.

[redcliff]

2011 for RIA means rail, right? Still a single stack 1911.

RIA 2011's can be either single stack or double-stack (high capacity) in both 9mm and .45 acp depending upon the particular model.

[JTROKS]

Does it have single stack mags or hi-cap/staggered? It seems the OP is mechanically inclined and has the courage to tinker which is a good sign. If you take good pics and ask what you are trying to do there will be many members willing to help out and provide very good advice. What you're trying to accomplish is not that hard, but may require you to get a new trigger with take up adjustment which are metal tabs you can adjust. Be warned that once you alleviate the take up you might notice certain gritty take up by the trigger bow or disconnector friction.

[thai562]

You are talking about the trigger pre-travel distance is too long. Yes, that can be adjusted at the trigger bow, near the trigger shoe, only if the trigger was made to be adjustable. If not, you will have to buy a new trigger to adjust.

Here is a link that show you how to do it. Scroll down to "Adjusting Trigger Pre/Over Travel". If you're up to it, use some of his tricks on your RIA, it will improved it a lot.

http://www.ktgunsmith.com/KTGS22.htm

[crob]

OP could always add solder to the existing trigger shoe and sand the solder until desired take-up is achieved.

[Alan Chen]

2011 for RIA means rail, right? Still a single stack 1911.

Easiest way to remove pre-travel/uptake in a 1911 is a simple trigger replacement.

Get a trigger with a takeup tab. More than likely it will have a overtravel screw as well. If your Rock is like mine, it has neither.
These two have them:

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/746161/sti-trigger-1911-long-polymer-black

http://www.brownells.com/handgun-parts/trigger-group-parts/triggers/1911-auto-lightweight-trigger-prod9579.aspx

Right behind the triggger, you see those cut out. Basically those are bent out, pushing your trigger placement back already.

Of course, do not over adjust or your trigger will not work properly.
It's not difficult to fit and adjust the trigger (not a trigger job), just search online for some guides.

Thanks for all the great responses! I will try one of these triggers and see how it goes! Hope I didn't just open up a can of worms that will lead to more 1911's and more tinckering

[Lead Waster]

Very interesting thread, thanks! I had just changed the sighs on my RIA and while dry firing it a bit I thought the same thing. I like the trigger but it has that ever small pre-travel. I can live with it sure, but I didn't know the fix was so simple. "Simple" meaning "in concept" not as in "to do".

[JTROKS]

The solder and JB Weld method is a cheap fix. Just make sure you prep the area well so it won't come off at the worst time. A tad bit of pre-travel is needed to insure reliability in trigger reset if you're using your gun for SD/HD.