Glock problem!

[JagerShooter]

I'm shooting open so it's different, had better luck with the factory recoil spring though only a few hiccups, I've noticed it doesn't like uncaptured guide rods.

[JagerShooter]

Compensated

[Eagle Eyes]

Leethe4th:

Before making blanket statements of how a firearm operates MAYBE you should look at the parts diagram or even take one apart to know how it works before spreading FUD.


Take a finger and pull hard on the extractor you will notice it moves and when you let go it goes back in toward the firing pin hole ....... that would be tension on the extractor.


JagerShooter:

GLOCKS (along with almost every other tilt barrel pistol) does VERY MUCH have tension on the extractor otherwise they would not work correctly. IF you take the back cover off the slide you see 2 holes, one big one in the center and one small one off the top right corner. In that hole is a long rod with a spring on it (looks like a mini guide rod and spring) and if you pull it out and look down the hole you will see the back end of the extractor. That is what pushes on the extractor and give it tension to slide up and over the rounds and hold them in place.


The best way to test is take off the back cover and remove JUST the firing pin and put the cover back on. Get a live round and slide it up into the extractor and see what tension it has. If you can push it up with minimal effort then you are ok. IF it takes ALOT of effort then either there is a lot of gunk not allowing free movement of the extractor and/or extractor spring or the spring is to strong OR the rod was machined to big and does not move freely in the hole.


The other problem could be gunk on the front or rear ends of the barrel and/or weak recoil spring which can be easily fixed.

[JagerShooter]

The problem was as I thought, the extractor had too much tension and was not allowing the rim of the brass to pass consistently this cause failures to go into battery. All is well now and the gun is functioning as it should.

[JagerShooter]

Replaced the extractor depressor plunger, spring, and bearing.

[Bastard]

factory or reloaded ammo - sounds a lot like improperly sized brass to me.

[Corbin Dallas]

Jager, mind telling us how the extractor had too much tension?

[Voo]

1) I'd pull the barrel and make sure your ammo's OAL and shape is reasonable for your chamber.. My OAL right now is good for my G34 but will cause my M&P to not go into battery.. Using JHPs is fine, but as soon as I switch to a roundnose, it'll stop the slide... Just make sure your OAL isnt too long and that your brass is properly sized..

2) 155 PF is still MINOR so if you've decided to shoot MINOR, you might as well load it down to the minimum 125-ish PF range.. If not, well, nobody will really care until you shoot at a major match- in which case they'll chrono your ammo and put you in MINOR..

If it were my open gun... I'd load 1 round and fire it.. See if it locks back.. if it passed, then i'd limp wrist it.. see if it locks back.. if it doesn't, your ammo might be too 'borderline weak' to properly cycle the gun... Try running a stronger spring without cutting any coils.

Good luck!

[JagerShooter]

The spring would not stay on the extractor depressor so the gap where the spring was not fully seated created more tension. I shoot a higher PF to stay relatively close to major the gun is flatter with more gas. Plus I always stay at about 155 so when I bump up my loads to 167pf it's not much of a felt difference.

[JTROKS]

What brand barrel you using? Is the chamber very tight?

[Leethe4th]

[QUOTE=Eagle Eyes;14013808]Leethe4th:

Before making blanket statements of how a firearm operates MAYBE you should look at the parts diagram or even take one apart to know how it works before spreading FUD.


Take a finger and pull hard on the extractor you will notice it moves and when you let go it goes back in toward the firing pin hole ....... that would be tension on the extractor.




GLOCKS (along with almost every other tilt barrel pistol) does VERY MUCH have tension on the extractor otherwise they would not work correctly. IF you take the back cover off the slide you see 2 holes, one big one in the center and one small one off the top right corner. In that hole is a long rod with a spring on it (looks like a mini guide rod and spring) and if you pull it out and look down the hole you will see the back end of the extractor. That is what pushes on the extractor and give it tension to slide up and over the rounds and hold them in place.


QUOTE]

EAGLE, GO FUD YOURSELF! What I said was "Glocks do not have 'extractor tension' like a 1911 extractor, so that's not it. " I have carried and shot Glocks for over 12 years. The Glock extractor cannot be bent like a 1911. The Glock extractor is a MIM part that goes against the plunger comperssion spring that is against the plastic bearing that goes against the inspection plate, NOT THE COVER PLATE. And it's not the firing pin hole, it's the striker bore. Glocks don't have firing pins, they have strikers. 1911's have firing pins. And the force is compression, not tension, it's a compression spring. When the extractor claw is pushed away from the breech face, the sping becomes loaded even more, there is a small pre-load when in place. You know the fundamental forces right?
Tension, compression and shear. The OEM Glock trigger reset spring is a tension spring, the New York trigger uses a COMPRESSION spring.

So if the OP's problem was fixed by replacing the extractor, extractor depressor plunger, extractor depressor plunger spring and the spring loaded bearing, it sounds to me like there was a mixup between the spring loaded bearings for the LCI extractor and the non (older) extractor. They are 8 different extractors, 2 different extractor depressor plunger, only one COMPRESSION SPRING, and 6 different spring loaded bearings.

Eagle you go look at a schematic, NOT THE PARTS DIAGRAM.

How many Glocks do you own?

[JagerShooter]

I own 3 glocks but this is my first open gun project, took it out to the range today and it ran flawless. Ejecting brass straight back at me but it ran.

[PowMeow]

Well, just like me, its time to order a new extractor and ejector... the ones in the late model Gen 3's like to eject brass into your face. Do some searching and youll find the details. IIRC you repalce the 336 Ejector with the 30247 ejector and a different extractor and it should sort out the BTTF.