Colt Mustang question

[Bushwack44]

Regarding a 1992 Colt Mustang Plus II 380, would replacing the OEM full size plastic guide rod with a Wolff Gunspring full size steel rod be cause for the recoil spring to fail?

I have had three recoil springs furnished by Wolff that either snapped or collapsed within the first 25 rounds. They are baffled (as am I) to why the failures and I'm wondering if the new steel rod could be the reason? Wolff doesn't think so but maybe others have an idea.

FWIW, gun recently came back from Colt to bring it back up to specs (after sitting in a safe for 21 years).

[ojisan]

Whenever possible, change only one thing at a time and be sure it works before changing something else.

First, I would measure the outside diameter of both guide rods and see if they are the same.
If the steel one is thicker, then possibly the spring is binding on the rod.
Also check the base of the steel guide rod to be sure it is the same dimensions as the original.
If the base is thicker, the springs may be coil binding and breaking because they can't compress far enough.

Also compare the original spring to the replacements.
Do they have the same wire diameter and number of coils?
Can you compress the new springs to the same length as the original springs?
If the new springs won't compress as far as the old ones, this may also be a cause of coil binding.

If all this checks out OK, go back to the plastic guide rod and try the new springs on it, so all you are changing is the spring.
Does the slide move as far back as it does with the original spring?
If not, then you know you have coil bind or some other interference problem.

[soulbyte]

I'm experiencing the same thing you are, I've been experimenting with the recoil system of my officer sized 1911 in 45 for a good month now. It originally came with a dual coil seacamp system and a reverse plug that did not fit really well. I wanted to change it over to a FLGR/single spring system with briley supported bushing. I had to reduce the briley bushing's length a 1/4 of an inch and used a spare guiderod from a 5" 1911 I had laying around. I cut the guide rod to length and reduced the foot size.

Image 1 below: The original system on the bottom. The new system on top.

Operation is perfect for the first 50 rounds. The wolf spring then colapses and will not return to battery stopping at the last 1/8 of an inch.

Image 2 below: Comparing the the failed spring (top) to the new spring (bottom).

After 50 rounds the 24lb wolf spring is bent and battered and the base (right side).

Basically I replicated the RIA Compact system with a briley bushing. Don't know what's going on and why the Wolff spring only lasts 50 rounds. I ordered some 24lb wilson combat springs to try and test soon. For the moment I just reinstalled the secamp system with and opened the briley bushing to accept the width. If it fires fine I'll just ditch the whole flgr/single spring idea.

[ojisan]

^ The top used spring, the coil second from the far right is larger in diameter.
The distance between the coils looks shorter on the used than the new.
The coils also look slightly larger in diameter on the damaged spring.
Sure looks like damage from coil bind to me.
The spring is expanding sideways instead of lengthwise because lengthwise it is turning solid when compressed.

Now here is where we play a little to get things running.
Check how far the slide moves back on the frame with the original set-up.
Your goal is to finish with nearly the same amount of rearward travel.
Take a new spring and cut off a coil or so.
Install it and check for full rearward slide travel.
If the slide doesn't come back enough, cut off one coil more and try again.
Remove coils as needed to get full slide travel.
(Shortening the spring will not make it softer, it will reduce the amount of preload, though. The loss of preload will mostly be offset by the spring being made shorter, which makes it stiffer).

[soulbyte]

I'll try that, thank you!