686+ cleaning help

[sandmanx408]

So I finally took my 686 to the range today? I shot about 150 rounds of .38+p rounds (will shoot magnum rounds next trip, also I really want to work out bad habits first)

Get home and I see a lot of black gunk cakes on the cylinder, I cleaned out the barrel and forcing cone with a bore snake and each chamber with a brass brush, everything looks clean except I can't fully clean the cylinder side by the barrel,

I used a combination of CLP and hoppes no 9, but it only removed a lil bit, I took a toothbrush to it, a brash brush and not much came off I went at it for 10 minutes, I'm sure its "technically" but I bought a nice revolver to look nice as well as perform

Is there something I could use or do to make it look like new again?

On a side note I could shoot fine single action at 15 to 20 yards can't shoot for crap double action need to practice a lot more but it was super fun to shoot and I gave all my brass to this old timer who asked for it so hopefully karma points

[daphonz]

Take a pencil eraser to it. It'll get the burn marks out not a problem (I'm assuming you have a stainless steel finish)

[sandmanx408]

Yes I do do have the stainless steel, really that will work never heard of that but shouldn't hurt to try

[daphonz]

I believe some people out there say to use special non abrasive rubber erasers, but my buddies revolver we just used an old fashioned number 2 pencil with pink eraser. Didn't expect it to work at all, but it totally did.

[Fherot]

I don't use Froglube anymore but it did clean out the forcing cone and cylinder face with just q-tips and paper towel on my 686+.

[jazman]

Get a Lead Away cloth, costs about $5.00. Will totally take care of your problem. DO NOT use it on any blued guns as it will remove the bluing. Another good cleaning tip is use a .38/.357 brush in your barrel, but use a .40 brush in your cylinder chambers. Grant Cunningham has a great book out on Revolvers that will help with your double action shooting and all things revolver. Check it out.

[Sabesimpson]

I use the eraser also works great.

[FIRSTGUN]

Iosso Bore Cleaner

[Fishslayer]

First, the stains on the cylinder face will do no harm if you just clean & scrub with Hoppes and a NYLON brush.

When I want that "shiny new" look I remove the cylinder & use a Leadaway cloth & Mother's mag & aluminum polish. Use a hollow ground screwdriver that fits PERFECTLY. Buggered screw slots suck.

Oh yeah... you can damage parts removing the extractor rod if you do it wrong. Info is online. The rod is a left hand thread.

[samsigsauer]

I use Leadaway cloth and Flitz Polish to remove the carbon...

[kurac]

I used to scrub my cylinder faces until they were bright and shiny. Then I realized that I was causing more damaged than just leaving them burnt so now I don't force it, I clean off what I can with Hoppe's and leave the rest.

[den888]

Yes, the Lead Away cloth works the best on SS revolvers. When I had my 686,this is what I used. Works like magic.

Get a Lead Away cloth, costs about $5.00. Will totally take care of your problem. DO NOT use it on any blued guns as it will remove the bluing. Another good cleaning tip is use a .38/.357 brush in your barrel, but use a .40 brush in your cylinder chambers. Grant Cunningham has a great book out on Revolvers that will help with your double action shooting and all things revolver. Check it out.

[c good]

I'm with Kurac, don't worry about it. If you have to clean it, lead away cloth and Flitz just like Samsigsauer mentioned. When you're ready to sell it, (which will probably never happen after you shoot it because they are sweet) that's when you give it the deep clean. HTH c good

[Mungo]

Another cal gunner sold me his new gemini customs sp101 with the bead blast finish recently. Any concerns with using any of these methods such as the lead away cloth or eraser on that finish? Marc Morganti (the smith at gemini) mentioned never to use anything more abrasive than a nylon brush and cautioned that the cylinder face will never get spotless.

[nephrodoc]

Mine has the bead blast finish, makes cleaning difficult. The cylinder face is a bit smoother texture. Any slip up with a brush or scotch pad may Mar your finish.

A lead away cloth or some hoppes on a scotch brite pad works to get carbon off.

If you do any regular shooting, it's not worth the work to take all the carbon down.

After a few years it gets more difficult and you are left with a slightly discolored cylinder face. It's all just cosmetic anyway.