Unconfigured Ad Widget

Collapse

1911 Question & references

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • Bushwack44
    CGN/CGSSA Contributor
    CGN Contributor
    • Oct 2013
    • 2042

    1911 Question & references

    My mind has turned to Jell-O researching the purchase of a 1911 the past few weeks. Just when I thought I knew what to look for in a 1911, something new comes up. For example, I was leaning towards a Kimber until I read the mainspring housing is plastic. Then I read (for a stainless steel pistol) it can be changed via a third party vendor (and its a DIY procedure but don't know if the 'carpet' would match the 'drapes'). Also, I read there are fewer MIM parts in a Sig than a Kimber (less to go wrong). Then again the Sig has an external extractor (usually requires more maintenance over time) and I'd prefer an internal extractor.

    Can someone provide a link to a website presenting the options available in a 1911? I suppose I'm looking for an article, chart or spreadsheet that highlights pros/cons of various 1911s. I know it may be subjective but I can decipher what is right for me.
    .
    Facts are to liberals as kryptonite is to Superman.
    ...

    Feed a man a fish, he eats for a day (Democrat).
    Teach a man to fish, he eats for a lifetime (Republican).
  • #2
    Meety Peety
    Veteran Member
    • Aug 2008
    • 3216

    I do not know of an actual spreadsheet that has been done on the subject, but there are several discussions on the matter that can be found via search. Keep in mind that a lot of it is opinionated and there is little true evidence that "gun A" really performs better than "gun B" or that "gun C's" malfunction were a direct result of MIM parts etc.

    It ultimately comes down to your personal preference. Some people are A-OK with MIM parts, others choose to avoid them. Some people like a gun tight, while others (don't ask me why) prefer a sloppy loose gun and call it a "combat gun" and tell you stories about sand. The point is, to each their own.. and 9 times out of 10 the gun you buy will serve you well for many years to come.

    So really what you need to do is identify a model or a couple models from each manufacturer in your price range (Sig, Colt, SFA, DW, Kimber and so on) and then look at the individual specs of each gun until you find the one that has all or most of the features that you truly want. Forget about what the guys on the forum are going to say you need, identify exactly what it is that you want and then go after it. If it makes you feel better with less MIM parts and a nice tight lock up, there is absolutely nothing wrong with seeking that out in a gun.

    Personally, from the sound of your post I would look at Dan Wesson 1911s. IMO the best bang for your buck until you get into the $2k price range, and even then they're very hard to beat for what you pay. They are made in the USA, no MIM parts, solid workmanship and have a fantastic reputation which means it will hold resale value (and then some) should you decide to get rid of it. Many come with match grade barrels and I have never seen a report of a bad fit on a DW. They would get my recommendation.
    "Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid." - Albert Einstein

    Comment

    • #3
      Armando de la Guerra
      Banned
      • Aug 2013
      • 1018

      I didn't know high dollar Kimbers were partially made of plastic.

      You can't go wrong with Springfield, IMO.

      Comment

      • #4
        Cyc Wid It
        Veteran Member
        • Mar 2009
        • 4485

        I don't think DW is a "good value" anymore with the recent price hikes. You also get a lot of people passing off blem models as new and reselling older models.
        WTS all BNIB: Colt S70 Repro, HK45c, Gen4 G19

        Comment

        • #5
          DArBad
          Veteran Member
          • Dec 2009
          • 3002

          Changing the plastic MSH on Kimbers/Colts is a very easy procedure. To me, its as easy as replacing a FLGR with a GI short guide rod.

          As I said in one of your thread, IF you buy a Kimber Custom II, chances are there won't be any need, REALLY, for any " changing-of-parts " to make the gun shootable. They are good to go out of the box. The same can be said of most production 1911s.

          Comment

          • #6
            Best sale
            Senior Member
            • Oct 2012
            • 1092

            if you wonna do more research from 1911 owners, check 1911 forum out, you can pick up a lot of pros & cons. Also ThetruthaboutGuns.com carry some detail review as well.
            my .0002cents,Kimber are great 1911.I have couple of them,never have any problem up to date. I have shot at least 8000rnds through my warrior and she is still banging. Truth is, I cant even tell the difference btw my Kimber & my WC, apart from the $$$$ damage in my wallet by WC.
            At the end you have to follow your mind and go with what works for you.
            sigpic

            Comment

            • #7
              crob
              Senior Member
              • Sep 2009
              • 515

              Get what you want. Every major manufacturer has it's fans and it's detractors, for whatever reasons they decided to come up with. If you like the Kimber, get it. If the plastic MSH bugs you, swap it out with a Smith & Alexander MSH/Magwell unit and call it a day. As for MIM parts, if you decide they are a problem for you, they can be swapped out as well. I think guys get too wrapped up reading about how aspect A or feature B are going to cause your firearm to fail in an epic fashion. Buy the gun, get some ammo and go shooting.

              Comment

              • #8
                Bushwack44
                CGN/CGSSA Contributor
                CGN Contributor
                • Oct 2013
                • 2042

                Thanks all for your feedback. Very appreciated and much of what you say hits a nerve (in a good way). I have analyzed the options too much but I did narrow the choice down to a Sig 1911 Stainless Target or either a Kimber Stainless TRE II or Kimber Eclipse Custom II (the latter with concerns of rust as I have read on the finish).

                I thought the MSH does carry some load (indirectly) which was a concern; as most everything in a pistol if affected by quick and harsh impact. But as it seems it doesn't,... Then what it comes down to (for me) is aesthetics, value and resale value (although rarely do I sell anything).

                BTW, I have read various forums (1911 forum, SigForum, etc) but it's difficult to read/understand through people's emotion in their posts. Same often goes for this forum. Posts can get heated and for any newbie 1911, that can just make things more confusing. But thus far this thread has been less about emotion and more about information - and that's been very helpful!
                .
                Facts are to liberals as kryptonite is to Superman.
                ...

                Feed a man a fish, he eats for a day (Democrat).
                Teach a man to fish, he eats for a lifetime (Republican).

                Comment

                • #9
                  nahpungnome
                  Senior Member
                  • Oct 2013
                  • 2159

                  Sig has a lifetime warranty. People say their service is hit or miss. I sent mine in last week for some random feeding issues after they changed their CA warranty policy. If you do any modifications, Sig can void your warranty at their discretion so be aware of that.

                  I believe Kimber has a 1 year warranty. The best warranty is one that you'll never have to use, but keep that in mind. The only experience I have with Kimber is a rental. It had one double-feed issue, but the other 49 rounds shot very nicely. Good luck!

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    MrBuzzard
                    Junior Member
                    • Mar 2013
                    • 0

                    I personally will not buy another kimber. I have an eclipse custom II in 10mm, don't get me wrong it's a tack driver and a beautiful gun (as
                    Most kimbers are) but on mine and a couple other buddies kimbers they have had issues with finishes/metal quality. A lot of problems with surface rust/pitting on their barrels even when religiously cleaned and lubricated. I had a sig scorpion 1911 not to long ago and it was a cool piece (just traded), for a $1,000 bucks I won't be buying another one. My next 1911 will be a TRP by Springfield.


                    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      S0M1L9S
                      Member
                      • Jul 2013
                      • 218

                      Originally posted by Bushwack44
                      I thought twhe MSH does carry some load (indirectly) which as a concern
                      I agree indirectly, since the MSH is basically a tunnel to keep all the parts in line.
                      If it was made from paper, that will defiantly not work, but modern polymer is sufficient enough to keep them in place.
                      Although a quick google search, does yield some failures.

                      The metal housing pin that goes through the frame & MSH takes all the direct pressure.

                      Comment

                      • #12
                        Bastard
                        • Jul 2009
                        • 2209

                        IMHO the easiest way to decide is to first figure out if you want a 70 or 80 series as it is commonly refereed to, basically find out if you want a firing pin block of any sort... which will eliminate half of all manufactures, then figure out budget & if you want to leave it stock or have it tuned & reworked.

                        IMHO I think that the absolute best 1911 on the market to start with is the Springfield loaded. that said if you are on a budget, don't overlook the RIAs either as they make a good platform to start out with.

                        Comment

                        • #13
                          bassplayer
                          Member
                          • May 2013
                          • 177

                          I have a Colt Commander in stainless - I like it and have had no issues with it. Comfortable and accurate.

                          Dan K.

                          Comment

                          • #14
                            MrBuzzard
                            Junior Member
                            • Mar 2013
                            • 0

                            Originally posted by Bastard
                            IMHO the easiest way to decide is to first figure out if you want a 70 or 80 series as it is commonly refereed to, basically find out if you want a firing pin block of any sort... which will eliminate half of all manufactures, then figure out budget & if you want to leave it stock or have it tuned & reworked.

                            IMHO I think that the absolute best 1911 on the market to start with is the Springfield loaded. that said if you are on a budget, don't overlook the RIAs either as they make a good platform to start out with.

                            I second Rock Island, just polish up the feed ramp and the are pretty good to go out of the box and you can't beat the pricing, great starter 1911.


                            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                            Comment

                            • #15
                              dk94044
                              Senior Member
                              • Apr 2010
                              • 915

                              1911forum.com or this sticky in 1911addicts.com

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              UA-8071174-1