adding (EASILY REMOVABLE) front sight to Glock extended barrel???

[America's Least Wanted]

http://www.lonewolfdist.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=852672&CAT=240

says "target" but I'm thinking what you really need for 'target' is longer sight radius, which you don't get with a bare barrel.

But since pressures toward the end of the 9" barrel won't be as high as near the breach, and since I don't want to add anything permanent since I want to be able to slide the end of the barrel through slide for swapping out and cleaning.......

I think machining in a couple of indentations to the end of the barrel that would allow some simple 'clip on' base for front sight that would hold "zero" after RR(remove/reinstall) would be the thing.

Any ideas? From "one time home build" to "Send us your barrel and
we will tap in a couple of indents and fit a c-ring mounted base".

Ideally, of course, it would be cool if no tools were required to RR, but I at least hope it would be a very common tool, not a 'c-clamp removable pliers'(with right size nipples).

What would also be nice is if the front site was 'streamlined'(like normal ramp sight, but need to be higher to get over Glock slide eyeview) so as not to catch or hang on standard holster when you whip that big dude out.

I'm happy they now make this for 10mm, which I'm guessing can make more use of extra barrel than .40.

And why do they say "California length" for 9", I thought 6" was length required for SSE for 4th gen.


PS-I got a G35 9" barrel(and stock), but I saw .40 don't get much faster with longer barrel, but since my .40 9" is thus kinda useless(except of 4th Gen transfer) I would be a good one to experiment on. I've also got SolidWorks (student edition) to sketch up any blueprints.

[Grumpyoldretiredcop]

Nice concept as long as you can find a method that guarantees that the sight returns to the exact same position every time you have to remove it, as you will to field strip and clean the pistol. There's not a lot of material to work with in order to cut keyways or the like.

[GunsNGirls]

I do not know of anyone who would want to do that. I would just get a 17L and call it a day.

Those barrels are 9" so that the pistol also meets the overall and barrel length requirements. I would not use them seriously in any pistol other than for SSE.

[America's Least Wanted]

GnG, I seem to shoot MUCH better with longer site radius like G35, and I THINK I was shooting really good with a Ruger .22 Blackhawk with 9.5", I also note Glock makes a 6" barrel for the 10mm to 'take full advantage' of the 10mm's powder load, so I'm thinking 'more is better'.

They say the .357 becomes a 'whole new round' when fired in longer barrel, compared to many pistol rds that don't get much faster in longer barrels like 9,.40 or 45acp.

IIRC the 10mm wasn't on the chart, but I'm thinking it would be more like a .357 and benefit from much longer barrel.

Now that I'm thinking about it, do you REALLY need to slip the barrel out of the slide to clean and lube those four points on a Glock?

[Grumpyoldretiredcop]

Now that I'm thinking about it, do you REALLY need to slip the barrel out of the slide to clean and lube those four points on a Glock?

You do to clean the inside of the slide. You could get most, if not all of the barrel surface on a barrel that long by rotating the barrel and moving it back and forth. Eventually debris would build up inside the slide, especially against the front and become a problem. I've seen that sort of buildup on infrequently cleaned LE Glocks brought to me for annual inspection.

[redcliff]

http://www.lonewolfdist.com/Detail.a...852672&CAT=240

says "target" but I'm thinking what you really need for 'target' is longer sight radius, which you don't get with a bare barrel.

But since pressures toward the end of the 9" barrel won't be as high as near the breach, and since I don't want to add anything permanent since I want to be able to slide the end of the barrel through slide for swapping out and cleaning.......

I think machining in a couple of indentations to the end of the barrel that would allow some simple 'clip on' base for front sight that would hold "zero" after RR(remove/reinstall) would be the thing.

Any ideas? From "one time home build" to "Send us your barrel and
we will tap in a couple of indents and fit a c-ring mounted base".

Ideally, of course, it would be cool if no tools were required to RR, but I at least hope it would be a very common tool, not a 'c-clamp removable pliers'(with right size nipples).

What would also be nice is if the front site was 'streamlined'(like normal ramp sight, but need to be higher to get over Glock slide eyeview) so as not to catch or hang on standard holster when you whip that big dude out.

I'm happy they now make this for 10mm, which I'm guessing can make more use of extra barrel than .40.

And why do they say "California length" for 9", I thought 6" was length required for SSE for 4th gen.


PS-I got a G35 9" barrel(and stock), but I saw .40 don't get much faster with longer barrel, but since my .40 9" is thus kinda useless(except of 4th Gen transfer) I would be a good one to experiment on. I've also got SolidWorks (student edition) to sketch up any blueprints.

The Hi-Power GP Competition has a front sight and weight compensator that clamps on to an extended barrel, but it is retained from sliding off by a threaded barrel and nut which is a big problem in California.


Perhaps you could design the cross screws of a custom machined unit you design to pass through notches milled into your barrel similar to an AR15 front sight base and it's taper pins which pass through notches in it's barrel.

[Grumpyoldretiredcop]

Or perhaps splines on the OD of the barrel and ID of the block to keep it indexed and a cross pin to keep it in place under recoil. That would avoid the threaded barrel issue and probably work pretty well if you can find someone to make the block and spline the barrel.

[GunsNGirls]

GnG, I seem to shoot MUCH better with longer site radius like G35, and I THINK I was shooting really good with a Ruger .22 Blackhawk with 9.5", I also note Glock makes a 6" barrel for the 10mm to 'take full advantage' of the 10mm's powder load, so I'm thinking 'more is better'.

They say the .357 becomes a 'whole new round' when fired in longer barrel, compared to many pistol rds that don't get much faster in longer barrels like 9,.40 or 45acp.

IIRC the 10mm wasn't on the chart, but I'm thinking it would be more like a .357 and benefit from much longer barrel.

Now that I'm thinking about it, do you REALLY need to slip the barrel out of the slide to clean and lube those four points on a Glock?

The sights should stay on the slide. If you want to have the longest sight radius on a Glock, get the 17L.

[kentactic]

Seems silly but ok. I know they make fluted barrels so a little groove shouldn't hurt anything.

[ArmedCMT]

The sights should stay on the slide. If you want to have the longest sight radius on a Glock, get the 17L.

Im looking to get the G24 and a conversion barrel so I can shoot 9mm as well.