Glock trigger bar issue or ghost trigger issue?

[Wykyd]

Hi guys,

I have a G35 that is brand new and i replaced the trigger with a ghost trigger kit before i even shot it. Bad Idea i know!!!! The owner of the gun shop helped me replace the trigger after the jail time so i think it was done correct! Issue is the trigger doesn't reset after you fire a shot. it sticks!!! when i broke it down i noticed that the trigger bar is "popping out" from the connector causing it not to reset. Basically the trigger bar is sliding off the connector and causing it to stick against the wall of the polymer housing and the connector.

Anyone else ever had this issue with a ghost product? Should i just bend bend it slightly? I have broke it down...cleaned/oiled everything and put it back together and still pops out. Frustrating at $15 a pop for range time plus ammo!!!!

[nick]

Just bend the connector bar out a bit, so that it's at an angle to its housing. The guy who installed it likely bent it the other way to "lessen the trigger pull". I know I made that mistake once (and it didn't do squat to lessen the trigger pull).

[hambam105]

The "Mistake" started when a new shooter alters a stock reliable Glock.

[Varg Vikernes]

Its not the same trigger bar that you have to hand fit to your gun is it? There might be some filing you have to do to it.

[Grumpyoldretiredcop]

The reason why your trigger doesn't reset any more is that the Ghost disconnector is dimensioned differently than the stock connector. The more correct solution is to either reinstall your factory disconnector or try another trigger bar. Bent trigger bars tend to break in my experience, leaving you with an inoperative pistol. This is also Glock's answer to the question, IIRC. You can download and check the Armorer's Manual for yourself to be certain.

You may also want to obtain an armorer's slide cover plate (or you can make your own by cutting away a stock plate at the top of the notches, if you do, paint it orange so you won't fire the pistol with it in place). With that plate installed, you can clearly observe the engagement of the trigger bar tip with the striker.

Last, as I've told a number of cops and students over the years, if you don't understand how your pistol works, you might not want to go playing with the internals until you do. You might be well served to download that Armorer's Manual and study it thoroughly before attempting any more modifications to your Glock. You'll be doing yourself a favor and saving yourself a lot of frustration, too.

[RobertMW]

Hi guys,

I have a G35 that is brand new and i replaced the trigger with a ghost trigger kit before i even shot it. Bad Idea i know!!!! The owner of the gun shop helped me replace the trigger after the jail time so i think it was done correct! Issue is the trigger doesn't reset after you fire a shot. it sticks!!! when i broke it down i noticed that the trigger bar is "popping out" from the connector causing it not to reset. Basically the trigger bar is sliding off the connector and causing it to stick against the wall of the polymer housing and the connector.

Anyone else ever had this issue with a ghost product? Should i just bend bend it slightly? I have broke it down...cleaned/oiled everything and put it back together and still pops out. Frustrating at $15 a pop for range time plus ammo!!!!

It's definately not the trigger bar's fault (most likely, defects do happen) I know because I have installed them in my G34 and G35 for USPSA. More than likely the installer screwed it up installing it, or did something because he doesn't understand the mechanism all that well.

Which Ghost is it? If it is the Rocket, how well was the over travel stop adjusted? If it is the standard, what the F did he do to it?

[Wykyd]

I bought the ultimate 3.5 trigger and spring kit. It doesnt have the over travel adjustment.

[Wykyd]

After reinstalling the OEM connector it still has the same problem. Put in my friends trigger assemble and its fine... tried it with my ghost connector and its fine. The OEM Bar has to be defective.

thoughts?

[Grumpyoldretiredcop]

I would reinstall all OEM parts that were in the pistol as it came from the factory, including springs, and see if that still happens as a final check. Spring weight can affect function. If it still doesn't reset properly, it's possible that the bar is out of spec, either from the factory or from alteration by the person that helped you install the trigger. At that point your best option is a new trigger bar/assembly.

If it functions normally with all factory parts reinstalled, your trigger bar simply isn't going to function correctly with the aftermarket springs and again, your most likely cure will be a different trigger bar/assembly. I have observed this to happen when mixing and matching OEM and aftermarket fire control parts in Glock pistols.

[squiddo]

had this exact thing happen to me when i put in a ghost connector and OEM factory trigger into my new GEN 4 19. It was muy second 19 and I already new I preferred the smooth over the grooved trigger. Same issue and removing the Ghost connector did not resolve the matter and only going back to the original OEM grooved trigger did.

Annoying but...the gun works great as is:-)

[chinny33]

seeing as its a G35 and you'll presumably compete with it on some level, here is the answer to all your problems

http://www.glockworx.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=793694&CAT=3688

[choo2x]

Your troubleshooting has determined that it is the trigger bar. You tried your trigger bar on the original connector and the ghost connector (no reset). You tried your friend's trigger bar on the original connector and the ghost connector (trigger resets). Therefore, the trigger bar is the culprit.

The trigger bar is supposed to "pop out" of the connector. This allows the cruciform to engage the striker when the slide moves forward. Your problem is when the trigger bar "pops out" of the connector, it is rubbing against the wall of the frame.

I had the same thing happen when I installed a G21 (smooth faced) trigger bar in my G30 (grooved faced). The tail of the G21 trigger bar was just slightly out of alignment and rubbing against the wall of the frame. This caused enough drag so when the connector moved out of the way of the tail of the trigger bar, the trigger bar did not slide up fast enough. This allowed the connector to recapture the tail of the trigger bar when the slide moved forward, hence no trigger reset. If you manually cycle the slide, the trigger resets, because the slide is moving slow enough to allow the trigger bar to move vertically, allowing the tail to slide past the connector before the connector can recapture the tail of the trigger bar.

Don't adjust the connector. Compare the tail of your friend's trigger bar to yours (I had my original G30 trigger bar to compare the G21 trigger bar to). You will see that the tail of your trigger bar is bent slightly toward the wall of the frame. Grab the tail with your fingers and bend it slightly the opposite way. Do not use tools, as this will mar the tail of the trigger bar and cause you other issues.

Your other option is to call GLOCK and see if they'll send you a replacement trigger bar, or go to a GSSF match and see the factory armorer (they'll take care of it for you).

I didn't bother with options two and three, and my G30 runs fine now.