Snub nose frustration.

[Mr357magnum]

the j-frames are definitely not easy to shoot.

I have a S&W 36 that I really like, but it isnt easy to shoot. I can keep a decent group at 18-20 feet. Probably 4-5 inches wide.

I also like to attempt really tough shots with the j-frame. I shot a can with it from about 30 yards. Took me three shots, but on the fourth I nailed it haha.

I really like j-frames. they are challenging, but fun. Makes you really focus on the fundamentals.

[5ohguy]

My 442 is just as accurate as my full sized guns, but as others have said, they take some practice. The secret is to pull the trigger very slow and maintain sight picture. Rear sights flush with the front sight. Don't worry that the barrel is tilted slightly downward. You should see the cylinder turn slowly as you prep the trigger. Its very hard to fire a heavy pull DAO gun quickly at distance accurately.

Have someone shoot your gun to remove that variable from the equation then practice.

J-frames rock.

[Mason McDuffie]

I got a 340PD as my belly gun. Took a looooong time getting used to it. Lots of dry firing. I even had my gunsmith take a dremel to the insides to get rid of any factory burrs.

Trigger time, trigger time, and more trigger time.

Good luck.

[Khromo]

The term "snub nose revolver" covers a lot of territory. A Model 66 with a 2 1/2" barrel (and those big, blocky adjustable sights) is an entirely different beast from your J-frame snubby. A K-frame with visible sights can perform very well on the range, in the hands of a good shooter. A J-frame is no more conceived for accuracy on the range, than a washing machine is for a race track.

A lot of experts question the mere presence of sights on a short barreled J-frame. That gun is appropriately used for fast point shooting at lunging distances, where taking the time to acquire those tiny sights would quite likely be a fatal mistake.

I would forget about "ready on the left, ready on the right" range accuracy with that revolver. It is not a gun for bullseye competition. We don't worry about 0 to 60 acceleration when we evaluate cement trucks, do we? Just because a cement truck is expensive doesn't mean we should expect jackrabbit acceleration from it.

Learn to point shoot your J-frame. Learn to instinctively point and fire that gun accurately at close quarters. You would be amazed at the speed and (combat class) accuracy you can achieve with some practice and training. That's what the gun is good for.

[Charlie50]

Others have said it but my advice.
1. ) Have experienced shooter try it, make sure sights are OK.
2.) It is possible front sight needs adjustment (not real likely)
3.) "anticpating recoil" causes you to "flinch" - To test for this (put an empty round or two in, then close cylinder with out looking where empties are, go ahead and shoot and see how much you are "anticipating" the shot when it falls on an empty.. should be no movement.

4. ) In double action mode you must "stage" the trigger if going for accuracy
5.) Short barrel revolvers are one of the hardest pistols to shoot accurately
6.) I have a couple of "snubs" one an old Rossi and the other a newer 642 - both are very capable of making hand size groups at 20 yds. The smith 642 takes the edge and can do much better if really trying...
7.) Its not a target gun, consistant hand size groups at 7 yds is more real world, instinctive point and shoot is where you want to be.
8.) Shoot / practice then practice some more... after about a thousand rounds you will do fine.
9.) have fun

[KevinB]

I'm feeling old here. I have carried my old S & W mdl 49 as my concealed gun for many years. Still shoot it all the time, just to stay good with it. It is not and never has been a target gun. fixed sights and no barrel. Look at the target not at the gun. In real life your target is going to be moving and you need to hit what you are looking at.

[Timbob55]

My .38 S&W snubbie isn't worth a hoot past 10 feet.

[dls]

Well, it looks like you've already done what you can.

I put the apex kit in my 442,it did noticeably help my accuracy,and is much easier to stage the trigger,thats for sure.

[avcrew]

In retrospect, I do not conceal carry, and use this gun for range and HD, and should probably have bought a 4" 686 instead.

While I agree that "point and shoot" training is important for this type of gun, I will not stop polishing my skills, and keep that approach for the next level.

I am having fun with this gun, and do not regret the purchase.

Reece
AVCREW

[mark501w]

Should'a bought one with a hammer. Have someone do a trigger job for you. Fast loads will shoot low slow ones high. Changing case brands will change windage.

[Lead Waster]

Yes, the barrel of a revolver points down slightly when the sights are aligned on the target.
When the gun is fired, it will rotate up due to recoil and (should) bring the barrel up to where it is aligned with the target.

...

Is this true? I know in semi-autos, the gun won't start recoiling until the bullet has left the barrel, but with revolvers, there is that slight jump to the forcing cone where gasses fly out, though generally off to the sides.

The problem with snubbies is that not all of the powder is burned in the barrel, so you get nice fireballs. So maybe fireball = flinch?

[johnny1290]

I saw an experienced shooter in a Kojak episode shoot a bad guy at 100 yards with a snub nose, so it must be you!