Does anyone know if it is possible to cap the threaded barrel on an M&P 22 pistol to make it CA legal? If so what is the process?
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Capping a Threaded Barrel
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Rule 1- ALL GUNS ARE ALWAYS LOADED
Rule 2 -NEVER LET THE MUZZLE COVER ANYTHING YOU ARE NOT PREPARED TO DESTROY (including your hands and legs)
Rule 3 -KEEP YOUR FINGER OFF THE TRIGGER UNTIL YOUR SIGHTS ARE ON THE TARGET
Rule 4 -BE SURE OF YOUR TARGET AND WHAT IS BEYOND IT
(thanks to Jeff Cooper)Comment
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Moving to CA soon and I have the same issue... I was told by the manager of a NorCal gun shop that I could JBWeld the cap on... but I'm not going to take his word for it.
Mine's brand new. I bought the gun before finding out about my job move. I'm thinking I'm going to resell it before the move just to stay out of possible legal issues.
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If you want to keep the gun and don't really care about the threads, just grind them off. You could still JB weld that cap on if you want to. Or, put the cap on and tack weld it.Comment
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My old Walther P22's thread cover screwed right off with a little heat and torque.
I think they just used some industrial bonder. If they could do it I'm sure you can."The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not."
"My reading of history convinces me that most bad government results from too much government."
"No freeman shall be debarred the use of arms"
-- Thomas JeffersonComment
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I personally don't consider red Loctite permanent, despite their description, and I doubt the CADOJ would either. I've broken loose dozens of nuts that have been red loctited on with just a wrench; it's common on race cars to either Loctite or safety wire nuts and you eventually remove them again during maintenance.
Minimum that would be acceptable to me would be a high strength epoxy or jb-weld, similar to what was used to resolved the P22 fiasco here. Or you can stick to the safe harbor BATFE rules of high temp silver soldering or welding (they don't allow any chemical thread lockers to meet their requirements).
But if your risk tolerance is higher feel free to red Loctite."You keep using that word. I do not think it means what you think it means."
"What we get away with isn't usually the same as what's good for us"
"An extended slide stop is the second most useless part you can put on a 1911"
"While Ruger DA revolvers may be built like a tank, they have the aesthetics of one also,
although I suppose there are a few tanks which I owe an apology to for that remark"Comment
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High strength epoxy is not permanent on metal parts. Take the barrel out and heat it to above 250 degrees.
I make metal pens and use epoxy because at any point in the future I can just heat the metal and disassemble the pen for repair.
Solder is permanent. Epoxy is not.Comment
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Agreed. I still say just grind the threads off. It's not like you can put a suppressor on the thing in CA anyway. Keep the gun, lose the threads, problem solved.Comment
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You can always buy a non-threaded barrel to use in CA. That way you don't have to sell your gun, and still have the barrel for use out of state, or if you move back.Moving to CA soon and I have the same issue... I was told by the manager of a NorCal gun shop that I could JBWeld the cap on... but I'm not going to take his word for it.
Mine's brand new. I bought the gun before finding out about my job move. I'm thinking I'm going to resell it before the move just to stay out of possible legal issues.

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The point of contention is that the CADOJ has no real standard for what level of permanence is required to render a threaded barrel "incapable to accept".
JB Weld IS a high strength Epoxy that withstands 250 degree temp with ease (600 degree max temp rating) and is used on engine block repairs. It's believed that JB Weld was used by S&W on the Walther P22 modifications which the CADOJ approved. You contend solder is permanent, but the BATFE says only high-temp (1100 degree) silver solder is permanent for it's rules.
My point was that I just don't think red Loctite is good enough because I think a determined person with a barrel wrench and a cheater bar could defeat it. I'm not so confident they could do that with JB Weld."You keep using that word. I do not think it means what you think it means."
"What we get away with isn't usually the same as what's good for us"
"An extended slide stop is the second most useless part you can put on a 1911"
"While Ruger DA revolvers may be built like a tank, they have the aesthetics of one also,
although I suppose there are a few tanks which I owe an apology to for that remark"Comment
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Walther/S&W/Umarex also use a different barrel cap, one which does not have the wrench flats.The point of contention is that the CADOJ has no real standard for what level of permanence is required to render a threaded barrel "incapable to accept".
JB Weld IS a high strength Epoxy that withstands 250 degree temp with ease (600 degree max temp rating) and is used on engine block repairs. It's believed that JB Weld was used by S&W on the Walther P22 modifications which the CADOJ approved. You contend solder is permanent, but the BATFE says only high-temp (1100 degree) silver solder is permanent for it's rules.
My point was that I just don't think red Loctite is good enough because I think a determined person with a barrel wrench and a cheater bar could defeat it. I'm not so confident they could do that with JB Weld.sigpic
"If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun." - Dalai Lama (Seattle Times, 05-15-2001).Comment
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I've replaced barrels on my other M&Ps but I thought the 22's barrel is permanently attached. Do you know how to remove it?Full Size M&P .40/9mm
Shield 9
Kimber Stainless Target II 9mm
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Not contesting anything here, just looking for some info.
Are there any legal cases in CA that addressed the type of attachment that would be considered permanent, or are we in the same boat as when talking about the lack of definition of "locked container" and having folks suggest using locked paper bags?sigpicNRA Benefactor MemberComment
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