Kimber Custom II shell casings marking the slide

[leok20]

It looks like the shell casings are marking the slide when ejecting. Anyone have experience or can guide me on what may be going on here. And can someone else tell me how to get rid of them.

This was the second time I took my new Kimber (my first 1911) to the range. I just picked it up on Aug. 16th. Too soon to have these kinds of probelms.

[redcliff]

They tend to do that sometimes.

It can be caused by an ammo/recoil spring mismatch, extractor tension, ejector length/nose shape, insufficient lubrication or limp wristing.

What ammo are you using and how far does the empty brass eject from the pistol if you are shooting it outdoors. Any other function problems?

Sometimes issues like these aren't worth chasing until the handgun and shooter have spent some time putting quite a few rounds down range together.

[stormvet]

That is a high wear area on a 1911, it has been my exsprience that all 1911s will show wear in that area of the silde. Some more then others, yours does seem higher then most. But if your gun is functioning fine, why worry about it. It's not gonna look brand new forever and with more rounds down range your gun will gain character and look like a shooter not a safe queen. If a function problem develop's then deal with it until then just shoot the crap out of it and don't worry about cosmedic blemishes.

[leok20]

RedCliff - Defintely not very many rounds down range yet, approx 200. In those 200 rounds I had 2 FTF both PMC ammo. No problems with American Eagle or Fiocchi. I did not pay attention to which rounds were causing this. I will try and do so next time. That may help me narrow down the AMMO/RECOIL SPRING mismatch you mentioned. EJECTOR LENGTH/NOSE SHAPE this I do not understand.

I was indoors, padded wals on both sides I did not notice the brass trajectory, velocity or direction. I was a kid in a candy store with my new 1911. The world around me disappeared.


I lube the S*^& out of my firearms, even in the picture you can see the over lubrication shining off of the slide.

I will not admit to having a limp risk, I won't do it! Doesn't mean I don't have a limp wrist just means I refuse to believe it!!

Alright so more rounds downrange. I will pay attention to those things.

Do you know if that can be buffed out? If it can't I might cry myself to sleep tonight thinking about it.

[leok20]

Stormvet- But I want it to look pretty F-O-R-E-V-E-R.

I get what your saying, the wear and tear will come but it doesn't mean it has to come in the first 200 rounds, does it?

I just got it, we were still dating, staring at each other without saying a word. Caressing the long hard grip, watching it shine in the lights of the sky. It was a budding romance. And to see how jealous the other girls in the safe were getting. Its almost like the sabotoged Mr Kimber.

[axhoaxho]

Stormvet- But I want it to look pretty F-O-R-E-V-E-R.

I like my Kimber's, and unfortunately this is kind of an unavoidable marking area on 1911's, more or less.

Your next Kimber (it is addictive ), try a stainless steel model. It hides marks better, and easier to polish them out.

[Kruzr]

Those are called "brass kisses" and tend to go away as you shoot the gun more and the springs take a set.

To remove them, soak a patch in solvent (not CLP) and let it sit on the marks for about 10 minutes. Then use a toothbrush to loosen the brass. It will smear so you take another patch with solvent and wipe it off.

[redcliff]

RedCliff - Defintely not very many rounds down range yet, approx 200. In those 200 rounds I had 2 FTF both PMC ammo. No problems with American Eagle or Fiocchi. I did not pay attention to which rounds were causing this. I will try and do so next time. That may help me narrow down the AMMO/RECOIL SPRING mismatch you mentioned. EJECTOR LENGTH/NOSE SHAPE this I do not understand.

I was indoors, padded wals on both sides I did not notice the brass trajectory, velocity or direction. I was a kid in a candy store with my new 1911. The world around me disappeared.


I lube the S*^& out of my firearms, even in the picture you can see the over lubrication shining off of the slide.

I will not admit to having a limp risk, I won't do it! Doesn't mean I don't have a limp wrist just means I refuse to believe it!!

Alright so more rounds downrange. I will pay attention to those things.

Do you know if that can be buffed out? If it can't I might cry myself to sleep tonight thinking about it.

Kruzr gave you good info on how to remove the brass marks. And while lube is good, having it on the exterior of the slide is a bit overkill Barrel/bushing interface area, frame rails, bottom of slide where hammer and disconnector ride and top of the barrel hood in front where the barrel scuffs during link down is usually sufficient. Of course I always wipe my handguns off with silicone gun cleaning cloths after handling them to prevent any rust/corrosion issues on the finish.

Try to determine if it's ammo specific and lets see if it improves as the pistol smooths out a bit. If not we can go through some of the other checks like extractor tension and recoil spring tuning if needed.

[sd_fox_racer]

Typical on 1911, just place a piece of painters tape there and remove when done if you want it to stay pretty, I like mine to show I use it

[trigger945]

It's maybe just part if the break in process? Dunno... In any case, congrats OP. As you shoot it more, the trigger will also smoothen out and lighten. Enjoy!

[leok20]

You guys are great.

I will take these steps to remove it. Any particular brand of solvent?

Exterior lube is overkill I know I know.
Silicone gun cleaning cloths, I will have to try those any particular brand?


I will pay better attention next time I fire it. I will bring a few different brands/grains to see what it prefers.

[CSACANNONEER]

It looks like your gun is working fine. The only trouble is that you think you have a problem and it appears that you bought a gun to look at instead of shoot.

[customiiguy]

my customII didnt do that n ive put 1k + rds through it. it could be ammo

[redcliff]

You guys are great.

I will take these steps to remove it. Any particular brand of solvent?

Exterior lube is overkill I know I know.
Silicone gun cleaning cloths, I will have to try those any particular brand?


I will pay better attention next time I fire it. I will bring a few different brands/grains to see what it prefers.

Not sure what Kruzr uses but Hoppe's #9 is kind of a staple general purpose gun solvent.


In regard to silicone gun cleaning cloths just about any will do, I seem to have more of these than any other kind as I look around:

http://www.amazon.com/KleenBore-GC-220-Silicone-Reel-Cloth/dp/B0014VYT7O/ref=sr_1_4?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1377317913&sr=1-4&keywords=silicone+cloth

In over 40 years of firearm ownership I've never had any rust or corrosion on a firearm which I've wiped down with these types of cloths after handling. I can't recommend them enough and I'm shocked at so many gunshops nowadays that DON'T wipe guns off after customers handle them. I can only assume it's lost knowledge to the synthetic and stainless generations.

[trigger945]

Good to know about that silicone cloth redcliff! I have only used it to clean my revolver. I never considered (and I don't know why) to use it to wipe down my handguns after handling.