P6 Spring Replacement Advise

[plinker]

When replacing the Firing Pin Spring on a P6, is there anything to be aware of when removing the Roll Pin, disassemble/re-assemble process. Also, I heard replacing the Mainspring (trigger spring) is tricky, any advice.

[duenor]

the best thing to do (which is how I do it) is to have the sig armourer dvd playing, and TWO sigs out.

one you disassemble.. the other is your model to look at how it should be like.

[saxman]

the mainspring is very very very easy to do... if you have 2 sets of hands. Doing it by yourself is a huge pain in the ***.


Take the grips off, compress the spring, and pop the little L shaped bracket at the bottom of the grip out of the retainer. The whole main spring assembly pops out of the gun. Remove the pin at the bottom, replace spring, assemble in reverse. Best bet is to have one person holding the spring compressed, and the other removing the pin at the bottom.

[TBoliv]

the mainspring is very very very easy to do... if you have 2 sets of hands. Doing it by yourself is a huge pain in the ***.


Take the grips off, compress the spring, and pop the little L shaped bracket at the bottom of the grip out of the retainer. The whole main spring assembly pops out of the gun. Remove the pin at the bottom, replace spring, assemble in reverse. Best bet is to have one person holding the spring compressed, and the other removing the pin at the bottom.

I solved that problem by removing the stock main spring assembly and replacing it with the "new style" parts. The mainspring base and strut from the 226 fit, you just need a new spring. The only down side is that you have to adjust the grip panels to accommodate the new base. When I did mine, it took about 15 minutes to do one side, and about 5 to do the other. I used a dremel with a cutoff wheel and ground out the area that needed space. Much easer to replace the mainspring when necessary.

As for the firing pin spring, +1 to the armorer's video. It's not hard, but is sorta difficult to explain without showing you. Also a good idea to replace the rollpins with new ones once you've driven the others out. Also, make sure you use a roll pin punch, not just a regular pin punch. Trust me..

[duenor]

One more thing, especially for the people who are buying our P6 Rearsenal Kits (http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...ad.php?t=98207):

If the recoil / FP spring replacement seems difficult, replace the magazine springs first. That will take care of most FTE/FTF problems. Most of the recoil springs still have a lot of life left. If you are still running into problems, then replace the rest of the springs.

Another option is to send us the slide along with the springs for refinishing with CeraHide. CCR will disassemble it and install the new springs for you (Ill email him to confirm) when he puts it back together after refinishing.

[plinker]

Thanks for all the advice, especially on the firign pin spring. Looks like I need to be prepared before going down that road.

[saxman]

Looks like I need to be prepared before going down that road.

Absolutely.


When I decided to replace the mainspring, I thought to myself "this can't be too hard to replace" and just dove right in.

Pretty soon I had the trigger, sear, and disconnect sitting in front of me out of the gun, trying to figure out how to put it back together. I turned a 5 minute job into a 3 hour job by not being prepared.

[ontmark]

Why??

This is from an Armorer on Sigforum.

SIG Sauer’s recommended maintenance and parts replacement schedule (as of March 2008):

Barrel: If the pistol exhibits keyholing or unacceptable accuracy.
Decocking lever spring: 10,000
Extractor: 20,000
Extractor spring: 20,000
Firing pin: 20,000
Firing pin spring: 20,000
Magazine spring: When magazine fails to lock the slide open. *
Recoil spring: 5,000 †
Safety lock spring: 20,000
Slide catch lever spring: 10,000
Takedown lever: 20,000
Trigger bar spring: 10,000

Mainspring (hammer spring): 5000 or when misfires due to light hammer strikes occur and other causes have been eliminated. Note that this is my own recommendation; SIG Sauer makes no recommendation about the mainspring in the armorer manual. I was told by a fellow armorer, however, that when he asked about it SIG’s informal guidance was that a mainspring should last 40,000 rounds.

* I also recommend replacing the magazine spring when ammunition is not held securely. This can occur before slide lock failures.

† I had seen an early recommendation here that the recoil spring be replaced after 3000 rounds, and that's what I follow.

SIG considers the extractor used in P220 stainless steel slides to be a “sacrificial” part, and that it should be replaced after it’s removed from the slide.

------------

This is the service schedule that was provided along with the above parts schedule:

Operator - Clean and Lubricate: After every firing or exposure to water chemicals, dirt, or other contaminants.
Operator - Clean and Lubricate: Annually during storage.
Operator - Clean and Lubricate: Monthly when carried as duty weapon.
Operator - Function Check: Whenever disassembled and reassembled.
Armorer - Field strip and inspect for proper maintenance: Annually.
Armorer - Detailed disassembly and inspection: Every three years or 5000 rounds fired.

The detailed disassembly does not necessarily include spring replacements.

[duenor]

Good post above.

On my "leave it dirty" P6, I replaced only the recoil spring and magazine springs. I seriously doubt the mainspring needs to be replaced every 5000. I have put far more than that through a p228.. and i'm the second or third owner.

[saxman]

I replaced the mainspring with a lighter spring in hopes of taming that DA pull a bit.

[Mr. Meeseeks]

+1 on duenor's video method, I do that too.

Also if you don't already have one, its best to get a cheap $10-20 Drill Press Vice from a discount hardware store.

Among other home gun smithing tasks, you'll need it to hold the mainspring strut when you compress the hammer spring.

Don't forget to pad the jaws of the vice to keep from damaging any parts, I use paint mixing sticks.

BTW, its best if you have the right role pin punches when driving out role pins, it will prevent you from damaging them and lengthen the pins service life/reusability.

You can get everything you need online @:
Brownells
Sig specific tools
Top Gun Supply
Wolff.

Good Luck, Have fun!

[TBoliv]

Good post above.

On my "leave it dirty" P6, I replaced only the recoil spring and magazine springs. I seriously doubt the mainspring needs to be replaced every 5000. I have put far more than that through a p228.. and i'm the second or third owner.

Stock Sig mainsprings should last a long time. My dad's 18 year old 226 ran fine with factory springs. After 18 years.

Now, if you're using light weight springs, they do tend to wear out faster (at least in my experience.) In my USPSA Production 226, I'm running a 15lb mainspring and end up replacing it about every 3-4000 rounds as I start getting light strikes. Underpowered recoil springs might wear faster as well.