Anyone have direct comparisons of the CGW Race Hammer vs the CZ Customs Competition Hammer? I'd assume both to be close to the same thing. But looking for real world observations. Thanks.
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CGW vs CZCustoms hammers
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They both seem to have the hammer hooks cut the same. If you manually cock the hammer back the CGW makes contact with the upswepted beaver tail, but YMMV as dimensions in that area can vary. The trigger break feels crisp on both. David told me today the hammer hook angle is the same as the CZ comp hammer hook angle to match the sear edge angle.Last edited by CAGLS; 01-11-2014, 5:35 AM.Comment
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My stainless 2-tone CGW race hammer doesn't hit the beavertail.Comment
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I've been running my EDM machined Cajun GW race hammer since they first came out and couldn't be happier. The quality of the fit, finish, and trigger is as good as it gets. I prefer supporting the 'little guy,' for the obvious reason that many people do, but I also believe that in some cases it leads to better quality and higher attention to detail, better customer service, etc. In this case I don't see how the hammer or my past experiences w/ CGW could be better.
That great hammer led me to get other CGW things as well, btw. Happy with all of it. Custom trigger work, the trigger itself, trigger pin, sights, sear, hammer pins, firing pin pin, etc... all from CGW or done by CGW, and all awesome.Comment
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Which CGW race hammer did you have put on your SP-01? If it's not the new ring hammer and it's the angular version it can contact the beaver tail when manually cocking the hammer back on the full unswept beaver tail if you pull it back past the piont to hold the hammer on the SA cocking position. For this reason I only rack the slide to cock it into SA position.Comment
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It's the angular one and mine doesn't hit my beavertail on my SP-01 when I manually cock it. I can press it towards the beavertail more than it's naturally cocked position, but it still doesn't touch it.Which CGW race hammer did you have put on your SP-01? If it's not the new ring hammer and it's the angular version it can contact the beaver tail when manually cocking the hammer back on the full unswept beaver tail if you pull it back past the piont to hold the hammer on the SA cocking position. For this reason I only rack the slide to cock it into SA position.
Not sure if mine's newer from the one you're talking about, but when I spoke to David to get my work done, he said his guy made this one different from the other stainless ones being that it's two-tone. It's polished on the sides and bead blasted on the face/top. He didn't mention anything about any angles or anything though.Comment
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Hey CAGLS I hope I'm not going to come across as a total jack***** here, but for a couple of reasons I think this is a total non-issue for most people:
- The polycoat is actually pretty tough. My angular hammer does contact the top of the beavertail if I manually cock it as far as it will go. I do this a lot, actually. Every time I manipulate the slide when the hammer is down I cock it first. Some of that is probably because my SP-01 is SAO and uses a heavy factory mainspring. I have hit that hammer into the beavertail probably a couple hundred times and just did it now extra forcefully about 20 times and there is no mark on the polycoat. I thought there was one but I rubbed it with my finger and it went away (it was just a reflective difference in the dust or oil from the contact). So I'm not sure that under normal use it's going to leave a mark at all. Especially since it only touches if you manually cock the hammer until it hits, and it's also pretty darn easy to only cock it until it locks into SA position and not continue to go the extra distance needed to make it touch.
- The normal 'a gun is a tool' blah blah response. I DO understand people wanting to keep their guns looking pretty. But, at the same time, if you actually shoot a gun at all there is plenty of wear that is going to become apparent immediately. Finish wear on the trigger up where it pivots in the frame, finish wear on the barrel (including the hood that is visible all the time), finish wear on the hammer where it pivots in the frame and especially on the hammer face where the slide rubs on it, scratches on the sides of the magazine from being inserted and removed and the mag catch dragging on them, often there's finish wear under a moving safety lever, etc etc etc. Adding a teeny tiny dent or scuff in the polycoat on the top of the beavertail from an edge of the hammer touching it just really doesn't seem like a concern at all if you are going to fire your gun at all in the first place. <<< and that's even assuming it leaves a mark, which it hasn't yet on my gun.
Just one man's opinion here on this specific [non-] issue
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- The polycoat is actually pretty tough. My angular hammer does contact the top of the beavertail if I manually cock it as far as it will go. I do this a lot, actually. Every time I manipulate the slide when the hammer is down I cock it first. Some of that is probably because my SP-01 is SAO and uses a heavy factory mainspring. I have hit that hammer into the beavertail probably a couple hundred times and just did it now extra forcefully about 20 times and there is no mark on the polycoat. I thought there was one but I rubbed it with my finger and it went away (it was just a reflective difference in the dust or oil from the contact). So I'm not sure that under normal use it's going to leave a mark at all. Especially since it only touches if you manually cock the hammer until it hits, and it's also pretty darn easy to only cock it until it locks into SA position and not continue to go the extra distance needed to make it touch.
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We have sold literally thousands of our angular Race Hammers and I have never had a single complaint about the hammer causing any damage to the finish on the beavertail of a CZ. Not one.
The frames hammer "well" arrests the rearward motion of the CZ hammer and this leaves a contact line across the back of any hammer used in a CZ, as it was intended.
The frames hammer well can vary and this could be the reason the poster indicates contact when others do not. However, if the poster is not pleased with the CGW hammer it can be returned for a refund or exchanged for our Ring hammer.
No charge.Comment
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I have both but like the CGW hammer more. Not sure why but I like the personal interaction David (schmeky) gives with his products. I have had no issue with the finish or the hammer touching my frame. That's news to me and I have tens of thousands of rounds through mine.
Sent from my cm_tenderloin using TapatalkLast edited by Bug Splat; 01-09-2014, 11:14 PM.Comment
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David's customer service and rave reviews is why I chose to have my SP-01 done by him. He's such an awesome guy. I wish he was local so I could shake his hand and buy him a beer or two.I have both but like the CGW hammer more. Not sure why but I like the personal interaction David (schmeky) gives with his products. I have had no issue with the finish or the hammer touching my frame. That's news to me and I have tens of thousands of rounds through mine.
Sent from my cm_tenderloin using TapatalkComment
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Glock 22 Gen 3, Springfield TRP, Sig P226 MK25 w/SRT CZ 75 SP-01 Tactical 40 S&W,HK P30L 40 S&W, Para Black Ops, Sig P226 Elite, S&W MP PROComment
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