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22lr autoloader pistol recommendations?
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Search is your friend. If you look there is even more.
sigpicIf you loan someone twenty dollars and never see them again, it was probably worth it.
Originally posted by hoffmangNFA is a long ways off as well it should be. Going after the NFA soon is like asking the girl you just met in the bar if she's into anal sex...-Gene -
+1 on the conversion kit if your .45 will take one (I have one for my glock 21, for which advantage arms was the only option I could find when buying)
They are about as easy to service as the parent firearmAccording to this CDC document the firearms related death rate has been surpassed by the poisoning death rate.
Time for an assault drain-cleaner ban?
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I just bought and would recommend a Ruger Mark III Hunter. Today I added a Marlin 981t a-bolt .22LRComment
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If anyone wants to spend a weekend and go through these threads and others we could mega merge them and create a knowledge base type thread and sticky it in the newb forum
Volunteers?
Different subjects are:
Input on first handgun?
Which .22lr pistol?
etc.
You would just have to read thourgh the relevant threads to make sure they stay on that topic - give me a list (not straight from the search function as below) and BLAAMO! we'll be done.
Search is your friend. If you look there is even more.
http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...ight=Ruger+IIIIf it was a snake, it would have bit me.
Use the goog to search calgunsComment
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I like the Rugers - haven't shot or spent time with any of the mkIII's yet. I'd just look around and wait and I am sure you will turn up a good deal on a used mkII.
Of the dozen pistols I've owned only two were bought new. They were my first pistol and 2nd which was the Ruger KMK678 (MkII stainless slab sided buyll barrel government competition model)
Many of the others were "as new" from the first owner.If it was a snake, it would have bit me.
Use the goog to search calgunsComment
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I have markIII hunter with fluted barrel and cocobolo grip for $480, but you can buy same performance with bull barrel and plastic grip for $300. Very accurate , easy to take apart with a screw driver or even my thumb nail.
Ruger and Buckmark just like Toyota and Honda, hard to choose one over the other.Do it yourself.Comment
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buy a ruger or a buck mark.
Don't worry if it's not the exact same feeling as your P6.
You'll get a lot better practice shooting a buck mark then trying to make a mosquito work.Comment
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The plusses of a Mosquito are a similar manual of arms, more experience with jam clearing (though it'll be a bit different than a centerfire, due to different jamming modes), similar feel, similar mag release, etc.
The plusses of a Ruger are much better accuracy, better reliability, better gun in general.
For the Ruger, I'd go for a MkIII rather than a MkII as a training tool due to the location of the mag release. I find when I shoot a pistol with a particular mag release, my muscle memory gets reset a bit. After shooting my MkII and switching back to, say, my CZ75B, I tend to go for the heel of the grip for the mag release the first few times.
If you're good at avoiding autopilot on such things, it may not matter, but if your goal is to shoot a .22 the same way you'd shoot your Sig, you'll want a mag release more like the Sig's.
ETA: Sorry, I thought this was the Sig thread.
Yes, like others have said, get a .22 top end for your 1911 - without a doubt the best choice. Less expensive is less accurate, but still great for practice.Last edited by maxicon; 05-13-2008, 12:53 PM.sigpic
NRA Life MemberComment
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+ 1 on the buck mark..., they're great guns... if you really want to practice and control your 1911 better, think about purchasing a 22lr conversion for your gun. the cost is close to a new pistol, but you'd have a familar lower to use, your own gun...Doug
The whole of that Bill [of Rights] is a declaration of the right of the people at large or considered as individuals...[I]t establishes some rights of the individual as unalienable and which consequently, no majority has a right to deprive them of.
--- Oct 7, 1789, Hist. Soc.-A.G. Papers, 2
support your local gun dealer in CA as they are a rare breed and subject to nonexistence...
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If you want to mimic the controls of your 1911 but shoot .22 rimfire, get .22 conversion kit. The controls will be exactly the same.
I own several of the .22 pistols mentioned here: Colt Woodsman Match Target, High Standard Victor, Ruger MK II Target, etc. All are fine pistols.
I also own a few .22 conversions: Advantage Arms, Day Arms 30x, Colt Ace, Marvel Unit 1, etc.
The most accurate handgun I own is a Marvel Unit 1 on a dedicated Colt Series 70 frame with a one inch Ultradot mounted above the slide. Fired from a bench rest at 50 yards, it is slightly less accurate than my scoped Ruger 10/22T. The Marvel will shoot 1/2 inch 5-shot groups. The Ruger's groups are around .43 inch measured center to center. I use my Marvel to shoot Bullseye.
If you're not shooting Bullseye and want an accurate and reliable .22, just about any of the coversions will do. My suggestion is the Advatage Arms unit because it functions exactly like a 1911, it is accurate enough for plinking and you'll recover the initial costs after a few bricks of .22 ammo as opposed to .45 acp. 500 rounds of decent .22 ammo is 25 bucks. 500 rounds of .45 acp $250.NRA Life Member
CRPA Life MemberComment
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The camper model, you must remove 2 screws which hold on the rear sight rail for disassembly- Everytime you strip and reassemble the pistol, the sights are off- It's annoying to adjust the sights everytime you go to the range.
The screws are allen head which the heads stripped over time- I slotted them for a flathead screwdriver with my dremel. There is a rubber recoil buffer which wears out over time as well.
The ruger, the sights stay on the barreled action during stripping- sights never get messed up.... has at least double the rounds through it, and nothing has worn nor do I expect anything to wear.
I added volquartzen trigger/sear/hammer to my 22/45 and the trigger is sweet! I'm told you only need the sear however.
Both are pretty reliable, but I think the ruger has had fewer issues than the buckmark. I need to keep the buckmark pretty wet compared to the ruger or I get FTE's more frequently.
Some versions of the buckmark, only 1 of the sight rail screws needs to be removed for dissasembly, but not the camper (or I couldnt figure out how) I'm told these models the sights tend to stay aligned.
I went to the range last weekend- had both pistols and a pair of 10/22's- Didnt bother getting the buckmark out of my pistol box. Goes to show just how strongly *I* feel about the 2 pistols.
Regarding the berretta Neos- put a couple rounds through one and it felt more like a cheap toy than any other 22 pistol I've ever shot.
For a cheaper good quality pistol ruger has my vote- They are pretty much the standard pistol for entry level 22 comps as well- Before people move up to Walthers/ pardinis/morinis/and the like- Says quite a bit all in itself.
For a higher end, man ya cant beat that SW model 41. That pistol still holds a good number of records. Pricey though. Still a bargain compared to a lot of that euro comp stuff.Comment
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This is the entire point of the 22/45 version- to mimic the controls and grip angle of a 45.For the Ruger, I'd go for a MkIII rather than a MkII as a training tool due to the location of the mag release. I find when I shoot a pistol with a particular mag release, my muscle memory gets reset a bit. After shooting my MkII and switching back to, say, my CZ75B, I tend to go for the heel of the grip for the mag release the first few times.
If you're good at avoiding autopilot on such things, it may not matter, but if your goal is to shoot a .22 the same way you'd shoot your Sig, you'll want a mag release more like the Sig's.
This came about because many people were modifying MKII's to feel like a 1911 for IPSC practise.
Ruger finally got the hint, and offered it factory instead under the name 22/45.
MKII/MKIII 22/45 are the same, except for the MKIII annoying "improvements"- loaded chamber indicator, mag disconnect...----edited for clarification---- There was the MKII and the MKII-22/45--- now there is the MKIII... and MKIII 22/45 --- MKII/MKIII are similar- MKII/MKIII 22/45 are also similar- The difference is the "improvements of chamber indicator and mag disconnect" from the MKII to the MKIII- Both MKII/MKIII are metal framed with mag release under grip- both versions of 22/45 are polymer with 1911 style controls.--- end edit----
There is a HUGE difference between the MKII/MKIII and the 22/45 variant however- The MKII/MKIII are the metal frame with a steep grip angle, and the bottom mag release.
22/45 is the polymer frame with more vertical grip. Has mag release in same location as a 1911.
Only drawback I'm aware of between the 22/45 and the MKII/MKIII, is resale value of the metal frame is far higher. And.... for bullseye, you cant get custom grips on a 22/45 without some SERIOUS DIY efforts. Custom grips fit right onto the metal frame MKII/MKIII.
However, regarding "custom" grips..... Here is a pic of my 22/45 with a piece of tin from a pie plate epoxied on the lower right side, then a liberal amount of "Bondo" applied while wearing a rubber glove....
Sorry pics are kinda big! I have long skinny fingers, HUGE palmswell on right side (bottom) and thumb shelf on left side (top)

View of left side- can see where my fingers end, and the factory grip underneath... only downside is the "thumbshelf" gets in the way of the mag release.
Last edited by postal; 05-13-2008, 4:17 PM.Comment
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Here's my solution to these two problems.The camper model, you must remove 2 screws which hold on the rear sight rail for disassembly- Everytime you strip and reassemble the pistol, the sights are off- It's annoying to adjust the sights everytime you go to the range.
The screws are allen head which the heads stripped over time- I slotted them for a flathead screwdriver with my dremel. There is a rubber recoil buffer which wears out over time as well.
(note that my buck mark is a camper as well, so this directly applies)
Leave the front sight base screw on. Loosen the barrel screw and the rear sight base screw, and remove the barrel and sight base as one piece. Very easy to do, and solves that problem.
Don't use allen wrenches on the screws. Use TX bits. A 15 and 20(or is it 10 and 15... can't recall off hand) will take care of the sight base screw and the barrel screw. They come off like butter, and there's no stripping to be had. Same advice works for those that try using an allen wrench and have trouble removing the screws.
Have you done the heggis spring flip on your buck mark? If so, how do you feel the trigger compares to your ruger, both out of the box, and after putting money into it?Comment
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Sax,
I tried tear down as you described but couldnt get it to come apart that way- I'll have to try again sometime. I heard that worked for some versions of buckmark, but after I tried once- I *assumed* it didnt work on the camper. Op error clearly.
Dont know what the heggis spring flip is- can you point me to the info? Out of the box, the buckmark trigger was a little smoother than the ruger- after VQ, that ruger is perfect- far better than the buckmark. I think by now I lost the factory parts so I couldnt set it back to origional.
Never thought of using torx on allen heads- Thanks!Comment
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