Lead Away cloths--worthwhile?

[Nemo]

I've inherited a nice pre-lock S&W 686, and I've been enjoying the hell out of it. However, I remember that my dad shot mainly reloaded semi-wadcutter .38 sp. ammo, and I'm concerned that those unjacketed rounds have left a bit of lead in the bore.

Are Lead-Away cloths a good option for cleaning, or is a hard-core liquid lead solvent the way to go? The finish is stainless, so not quite as delicate as bluing; but still, how does one protect the finish when using either product?

[aplinker]

There's really nothing a pre-soaked cloth can do that a solvent can't. They're for convenience.

Lead cleaners are a good call. Usually lead builds up around the forcing cone, so spend extra time there. You'll be able to see it in the lands/grooves as streaking.

I like Shooter's Choice lead remover, but just about any good solvent will work.

[Nemo]

Looked at it last night, and a bore light revealed no streaking in the bore, but what looks like a bit of buildup in the forcing cone.

Thanks--I think convenience will dictate a cloth. I'll pay extra attention to the forcing cone, as well.

[rivviepop]

Lead Cloth is fantastic stuff, use it on your 686 with pride. It'll take the gunk right off the front of the cylinder in no time - I usually cut out a 2" square and fold it over twice, then just scrub away and flipping the folds. Works really well on the outside of the cylinder as well to get those caked on powder burns off - some 5 minute scrub-down with a lead cloth can save 15+ minutes with solvent and a brass brush for sure. A couple swipes on the inside of the top/front strap then switch over to your traditional Hoppes.

Trick I learned from another website: take a cut-up tshirt and pull it through the frame and tie it around the back of the hammer, like a bandanna. This protects your firing pin and the bushing area from your cleaning rod when you shove it through the barrel and sometimes go a little hard - the rod just hits the tshirt and not the gun.

BTW: lead cloth leaves residue, as well as fibrous material in the chambers. I lead cloth *before* I clean the chambers and barrel (in fact I clean the chambers/barrel last of everything) with the usual brushes & patches.

[QuarterBoreGunner]

What? Nobody does it the old fashioned way anymore?


Gol dern kids and their new fangled "lead cloths"... next thing you know it'll be indoor plumbing and the vote for wimmin!

[eaglemike]

Actually there are times the lead away cloth works better than the Lewis lead remover. It's an amazing product.

As noted above, it's the bomb for cleaning the front of cylinders on a stainless wheelgun.

all the best,

Mike

[Nemo]

Great hints, rivvie and others. I'll give the cloth a try after my next range trip. I generally use a boresnake, but that's a great way to cushion the cleaning rod.

And yeah, what's the world coming to? Us wimminfolks, we're votin', we're shootin'; hell, some of us even go unaccompanied to the drive-in!

[bruceflinch]

I bought an Outers Foul Out a few years back. They are great if you do a lot of lead bullet shooting.

[eaglemike]

I shoot a lot of the moly-coated lead stuff. They work very well, with way less maintenance than regular lead.

all the best,

Mike

[rivviepop]

I generally use a boresnake, but that's a great way to cushion the cleaning rod.

I'll shoot ya a pic when I make it home ("home is where the guns are") so that it's clear - I tried finding the website I got it from, Google has failed me. While a boresnake works, it's leaving behind layers (coatings? deposits?) of lead/copper that aren't too visible. Gotta run a bore brush/patches with some Hoppes (or whatever) through to get that crud outta there...

[aplinker]

I'll shoot ya a pic when I make it home ("home is where the guns are") so that it's clear - I tried finding the website I got it from, Google has failed me. While a boresnake works, it's leaving behind layers (coatings? deposits?) of lead/copper that aren't too visible. Gotta run a bore brush/patches with some Hoppes (or whatever) through to get that crud outta there...

Boresnakes are awesome for post-session cleaning. I keep mine partially moist with CLP.

They're NOT a substitute for for full cleanings. However, I now clean a lot less on my frequent shooters and have yet to see any issues.

[1911su16b870]

I've inherited a nice pre-lock S&W 686, and I've been enjoying the hell out of it. However, I remember that my dad shot mainly reloaded semi-wadcutter .38 sp. ammo, and I'm concerned that those unjacketed rounds have left a bit of lead in the bore.

Are Lead-Away cloths a good option for cleaning, or is a hard-core liquid lead solvent the way to go? The finish is stainless, so not quite as delicate as bluing; but still, how does one protect the finish when using either product?

The Lead-Away swabs are great for removing that cylinder ring that is around each cartridge hole and the forcing cone. They work great. I use the wood end of my FBI style "q-tip" swabs to help guide the swab around and remove fouling.

For the bore, the foaming bore cleaners, or Butch's bore shine followed with bronze brush work good. After cleaning, simply wipe down with a clean gun cloth, and store.

[TKM]

Lead Away rocks on stainless,, however,

KEEP IT FAR AWAY FROM BLUED GUNS!!!!!,

unless you like them looking like stainless, briefly.

[rivviepop]

here's what I was trying to explain:

[Nemo]

Excellent. That's what I'd envisioned!