1911 upgrades

[sigfield]

I own a Sig Sauer 1911 stainless. Just added a Wilson full lenth guide rod and a 20# variable recoil spring using 230gr win white box. This combination made it shoot like my 9mm, no recoil.

My question is, would adding a recoil buffer be necessary for further protection of the constant pounding from the slide to the frame, vice versa?

Also, would an extended ejector help with timing? And how many rounds would constitute an extractor replacement?

[SilverTauron]

I own a Sig Sauer 1911 stainless. Just added a Wilson full lenth guide rod and a 20# variable recoil spring using 230gr win white box. This combination made it shoot like my 9mm, no recoil.

My question is, would adding a recoil buffer be necessary for further protection of the constant pounding from the slide to the frame, vice versa?

Also, would an extended ejector help with timing? And how many rounds would constitute an extractor replacement?

Your 1911 isn't made out of tinfoil. Sig Sauer presumably tested and evaluated their 1911s thoroughly with the parts it comes with before putting them into production and selling them.

As such the weapon will not destroy itself with the configuration its in. The FLGR vs GI guiderod is a Gordian Knot debate without any resolution in sight, so don't buy into any demagoguery supporting one side or the other. Your pistol is fine the way it is safe for one thing-it needs to be shot more often.

Solving that problem is the fun part of owning 1911s!

[jcaoloveshine]

You're doing more damage to your frame with the 20# recoil spring...that weight is excessive for a 5" government model unless you're shooting .45 Super loads.

I run 16.5lb recoil springs in my Baer TRS and Ed Brown SF. I noticed less muzzle flip with the 16.5lb vs. 18.5lb spring in my Baer.

The highest I would go assuming normal to +P 45acp loads is 18.5lbs.

Regarding the recoil buffer, it's unnecessary in my opinion. Just another part that can get caught up in the gun. If you're using it as an antidote for the 20# spring, it's a bandaid and you should just switch to a lower spring weight.

[razr]

Buffer might off your timing but I know people who have used them for years. I have used them and didn't notice a big difference. I like full size guide rods and replace them when I can. As said above none are necessary. Keep it stock till you run into a problem.

[sigfield]

sorry guys, i should have states earlier that I replaced the stock spring after 6000 rounds. My slide failed to lock back after the last shot and had peridical feeding problems. After i switched to 20# from 18#, all the problems have recessed. Ive already put 2,000 rounds through it flawlessly.

Also, I bought another 18# spring the same time I got the 20#. Until the 20# gives me problems, Ill keep it in to see what i like better.

[jonzer77]

I would take that 20# spring out because you are going to add more wear and tear like others have stated. If the gun isn't running right with a new 18.5# spring then send it to Sig and let them fix it......better to have the issue fixed now before you do damage with the 20# later and sig tells you they won't warranty it.

[CrippledPidgeon]

sorry guys, i should have states earlier that I replaced the stock spring after 6000 rounds. My slide failed to lock back after the last shot and had peridical feeding problems. After i switched to 20# from 18#, all the problems have recessed. Ive already put 2,000 rounds through it flawlessly.

Also, I bought another 18# spring the same time I got the 20#. Until the 20# gives me problems, Ill keep it in to see what i like better.

Couple issues. As was stated earlier, you waited way too long to replace your recoil spring. A person really in tune with their gun can tell by feel that the recoil spring has weakened. Another, slightly more scientific method is to first measure the spring, and when it gets a 1/2 inch shorter, replace it. You can use another new spring as a reference, but that only works if the spring is the same type from the same manufacturer.

Second, in regards to recoil buffers, you only see abnormal battering of the slide and frame if you don't keep up on your spring maintenance. The battering occurs when the slide's movement isn't properly slowed by the spring. If you're battering on an 18# spring (heavy loads, maybe), then it'd be better to use a stronger spring. If you put too heavy a spring in your gun, then you risk the slide not cycling completely.

One of the risks of adding the buffer is that you restrict the slide movement and introduce problems that wouldn't have been there otherwise. I can't remember the exact symptoms, but I took a class with a guy who had the buffer in his 1911, and it was constantly malfunctioning. One the buffer came out, all his problems went away.

[JTROKS]

If you put too many shok-buffs your gun may short cycle. Some 1911s don't like shok-buffs at all this is because it may be too big and requires trimming. Once you put a shok-buff it requires checking after a shooting session for wear, because if you keep using a torn up shok-buff it will cause a death jam requiring a disassembly to fix. Adding an extended ejector due to inducing the short cycling by adding a heavy spring and shok-buff? If you're doing all this as a learning experience and you don't mind wasting money for parts have fun doing it.

[skosh69]

"Friends don't let friends use shok buffs"

[JTROKS]

I used shok buffs back in the days of shooting USPSA matches when the power factor was 175. 115 grain .355 bullets shot out of a 5.5" 38 Super barrel at 1550 fps were brutal on a $2.5K open class gun and the shok buffs helped in preventing cracking the frame of the gun. I learned the hard way when shooting a club match and my gun was jamming in the middle of a stage run. The edges on the shok buff sheared away into pieces and the fragments were jamming up the proper cycling of the gun.

[markw]

I did witness at the range about a month ago a recoil buffer crack apart and jam a guys GSG 1911 .22.

Those things are made out of tin foil. Lots of them breaking. There's been a few posts in here about that POS.


Instead of a heavier spring, pick up an EGW firing pin stop.

[Cyc Wid It]

In case you didn't see it already:
dump the buff
dump the FLGR
return to standard springs

[Sublime_AC]

I never thought the 1911 was all that harsh to shoot, it's certainly not as smooth as a Sig P226 9mm, but it is far from unmanageable. I think there is some good advice here and it is worth listening to.

I use Wolff springs in my 1911's, my Kimber Custom is probably the closest thing to your Sig 1911 that I have and it works great with a 17lb spring and good defensive ammo.

If you want a gun that has less felt recoil look at guns that are designed to use multi-spring recoil buffers and such, look at a smaller caliber or both.

Like I said, my P226 shoots almost as softly as a .22 rimfire handgun.

Don't try to make a .45 caliber 1911 something that it is not.