Kimber 1911 hammer doesn't always stay cocked

[Dokbrick]

I don't do it to often but never found it to be a problem. Are you saying the hammer follows down and strikes the firing pin?

That is correct. As it was explained to me, the jarring action of the slide slamming forward is enough to make the sear slip and have the hammer slam home, then KABAM. Again I am talking about having the slide locked back, stick a round in the chamber and press the slide release. It should be noted I have a Kimber Custom CDP II, if that makes any difference.

[AAShooter]

That is correct. As it was explained to me, the jarring action of the slide slamming forward is enough to make the sear slip and have the hammer slam home, then KABAM. Again I am talking about having the slide locked back, stick a round in the chamber and press the slide release. It should be noted I have a Kimber Custom CDP II, if that makes any difference.

I have never had that happen. I find it strange because of the firing pin block in the newer models. I don't see where that would be de-activated to get it out of the way to allow the firing pin to strike the primer.

[redcliff]

As to the OP's question, yes send it to Kimber to have it fixed; it could be the sear spring needs tweaking but could also be hammer/sear engagement. Play it safe and have a professional look at and repair it.

Using the slide stop as a release does put more potential wear on the slide stop notch, but with a properly heat-treated slide shouldn't cause a problem for most people.

The lower rear edge of the slide stop notch on the slide is not normally "rubbed" by the slide stop when the slide stop engages when the magazine is empty unless you have weak magazine springs which lift the slide stop slowly or partially. When you sling-shot the slide the front side of the notch pushes the slide stop down out of the way to allow feeding after a reload. However when you use the slide stop as a release you are rubbing the lower rear area of the notch that wouldn't be rubbed in normal operation so do so at your own risk. My belief is that the causes of slide stop peening in slides are caused by the following and in this order of severity: 1. soft/improperly heat-treated slides 2. weak magazine springs 3. use of the slide stop as a release.

As to the latest posts regarding Kimbers, when safe and properly fitted any 1911 should feed a live round from the magazine into the chamber safely. However, if you have loaded a round into the chamber via the ejection port (a very bad habit and very hard on the extractor) and drop the slide (with no magazine in the pistol) you are putting a lot more jarring on the hammer/sear engagement which is the reason we drop the slide when doing the function test; i.e. if the hammer/sear engagement holds on an empty chamber/slide drop it will hold easily when feeding ammo from the magazine as intended.

Always load live rounds into the chamber via the magazine. Always test (once) that your hammer doesn't follow when dropping the slide on an empty chamber after any detail cleaning or disassembly of the fire control components. Use whatever method to release the slide you want but watch for peening.

[walmart_ar15]

Loading a round into the chamber via the ejection port then close the slide is same to dropping the slide on an empty chamber. Stripping the round from the magazine under tension is what slows down the slide. Oh not to mention it is very hard on your extractor as it is not designed to spring outward then back to clip a round. It will fatigue and break (after hundreds and hundreds of rounds of course)

Allowing the hammer to go into half cocked as noted by OP will eventually damage either the hammer (breaks off the hook) or the sear depending which part is weaker of the two in the gun.

As noted prior, OP could tweak the leaf spring (center leg forward sightly) or use a heavier main spring or use a lighter trigger. Springs change will increase the trigger weight, but should fix the issue (unless it has really bad sear/hammer engagement) Being new and still under warranty, I would send it back unless they won't pay shipping, then it may be cheaper to adjust the leaf spring first.

[AAShooter]

My experience is Kimber will pay return shipping only. The dealer should stand behind the product and make this right. Also, the dealer may have access to cheaper shipping if you end up having to pay for it.

[Kruzr]

I'd suggest you send it in yourself. Dealer returns get in line behind the ones sent directly by the warrantied owner. You'll get the gun back faster if you send it yourself. Call Kimber, they have been known to send out return tags and pay shipping both ways, especially if it is a safety issue like this one.

[AAShooter]

That last time I sent mine in to Kimber I had to send it overnight delivery. I think I had it back on my doorstep three business days later. I never expected that fast of turn around.

[negolien]

huh

This. Thanks for catching it.

Josh

So letting the slide go thus loading a round into the chamber without holding the trigger down damages the sear? Still not folloowing ya but guess that's a little off topic now.

[Speedpower]

Let us know what went wrong once you get your gun back from Kimber