Issues with a S&W Model 19

[SactoPlinker]

Hi all.

I'm having an issue with my S&W Model 19-2 revolver chambered in .357 magnum. Its a snub nose (2 1/2" barrel) with original everything on it. It was a service weapon for my dad and has always been meticulously maintained and have never had an issue, till' now.

Was at the range the other day firing off my second box of .357 and when firing it became increasingly harder to fire, as in the cylinder was extremely hard to rotate to the next chamber. After about 15 more rounds I almost could not pull the trigger, and unloaded the weapon and put it away for the day.

Went home, gave a thorough cleaning, visually inspected it and nothing seemed out of the ordinary but the cylinder was still very hard to rotate and the trigger pull was outrageously heavy.

Has anyone experienced this issue? I've never had a problem with this pistol until now and I would like to resolve the issue. FWIW i fire both .38 special and .357 mag out of it.

Thanks in advance.

[usmcspud]

Clean the cylinder face thoroughly and the face of the forcing cone. Residue will build up and cause that exact problem.

[shooting4life]

Sounds like an issue with the rebound spring. Maybe it is getting hung up on something? Is the front of the cylinder and the forcing cone clean?

[Ribkick]

Also, check your extractor rod. It may have loosened and walked up against the shroud.

[SactoPlinker]

Front of the cylinder and forcing cone is pretty clean, i'll give it another scrub tomorrow and see if that helps.

And also will be checking on the extractor rod. Hopefully between these two things we'll see some improvement.

thank you for the responses guys.

[ELIXIR]

I had the same problem with mine. The extractor rod would losen up a bit, so I had to constantly tighten it. I took it to a gun smith and he fixed it.

[darkwater]

Just sent my wife's S&W 317 back for a similar reason. The cylinder gap closed to nothing after about 40 to 50 rounds, such that the forcing cone was dragging on the cylinder until it cooled down. I think S&W's tolerances are generally too tight, where the slightest expansion due to heat and/or residue can lock them up. I'll stick with my Rugers...

[SactoPlinker]

I had the same problem with mine. The extractor rod would losen up a bit, so I had to constantly tighten it. I took it to a gun smith and he fixed it.

did he just loctite it? and can you tighten by hand or do you need like padded vise grips?

[Ribkick]

I had the same problem with mine. The extractor rod would losen up a bit, so I had to constantly tighten it. I took it to a gun smith and he fixed it.

If that proves to be the problem, a simple cleaning of the threads in acetone and reassemble with blue locktite (just a dot on the threads) will correct the issue. Use blue, not red or you will never be able to disassemble without a torch in the future.

[Grumpyoldretiredcop]

To tighten the extractor rod, you should use a dedicated tool that will grip the rod without marring or crushing it, such as this one.

When tightening a S&W extractor rod, always support the extractor star by inserting empty cases or snap caps in the charge holes to prevent breaking off the extractor star locating bosses on the cylinder.

SactoPlinker, you should also check to see if unburned powder or other debris has gotten between the extractor star and the cylinder as this will also cause the symptoms that you describe.

[Fishslayer]

did he just loctite it? and can you tighten by hand or do you need like padded vise grips?

ACK! Put down the visegrips and back away!

First check under the extractor star. Unburnt powder can get under there and bind things up. When ejecting the empties you want the muzzle pointed up. When cleaning make sure you get all the excess oil out from under the star. It will reach out and grab crud.

The extractor rod should have a left hand thread. Purists will tell you "NO LOCTITE!" Well, I used the low strength blue and wiped off almost all of it. You definitely don't want the Loctite getting where it doesn't belong. Firm finger tight should do ya.

Whatever you do don't force the trigger when it binds up or you can bugger your hand/extractor star. Ask how I know.

[g17owner]

Just sent my wife's S&W 317 back for a similar reason. The cylinder gap closed to nothing after about 40 to 50 rounds, such that the forcing cone was dragging on the cylinder until it cooled down. I think S&W's tolerances are generally too tight, where the slightest expansion due to heat and/or residue can lock them up. I'll stick with my Rugers...

This may be the case with newer S&W's but my 19-3 in 2.5' barrel has never had an issue. I have literally had firing sessions lasting 2-400 rounds of mixed loads and not even a hiccup. I would do a full tear down and then check for wear on critical parts.

[Ribkick]

This may be the case with newer S&W's but my 19-3 in 2.5' barrel has never had an issue. I have literally had firing sessions lasting 2-400 rounds of mixed loads and not even a hiccup. I would do a full tear down and then check for wear on critical parts.

Whoa! No complete tear down. I have 19's, 66's (same gun, one is stainless) and 27's and a complete tear down has never been required after thousands of rounds. Not to mention the damage that can be done by someone not qualified to even remove the side plate properly.

OP stated after less than 100 rounds he experienced tighter action. Then after another 15, even tighter. That does not suggest a complete tear down.

Again, check your extractor rod and under your extraction star.

[SactoPlinker]

To tighten the extractor rod, you should use a dedicated tool that will grip the rod without marring or crushing it, such as this one.

When tightening a S&W extractor rod, always support the extractor star by inserting empty cases or snap caps in the charge holes to prevent breaking off the extractor star locating bosses on the cylinder.

SactoPlinker, you should also check to see if unburned powder or other debris has gotten between the extractor star and the cylinder as this will also cause the symptoms that you describe.

I did check for debris and crud under the star yesterday, it was pretty clean. however, i like the look of the tool so maybe I'll have to add that to the workbench haha.

ACK! Put down the visegrips and back away!

First check under the extractor star. Unburnt powder can get under there and bind things up. When ejecting the empties you want the muzzle pointed up. When cleaning make sure you get all the excess oil out from under the star. It will reach out and grab crud.

The extractor rod should have a left hand thread. Purists will tell you "NO LOCTITE!" Well, I used the low strength blue and wiped off almost all of it. You definitely don't want the Loctite getting where it doesn't belong. Firm finger tight should do ya.

Whatever you do don't force the trigger when it binds up or you can bugger your hand/extractor star. Ask how I know.

Don't worry, I don't even think i have a pair of vise grips right now haha. And blue loctite was what i was thinking. I guess I'll just have to clean it some more, and check the extractor rod tomorrow after i get off of work. And....how do you know?

[SactoPlinker]

Whoa! No complete tear down. I have 19's, 66's (same gun, one is stainless) and 27's and a complete tear down has never been required after thousands of rounds. Not to mention the damage that can be done by someone not qualified to even remove the side plate properly.

OP stated after less than 100 rounds he experienced tighter action. Then after another 15, even tighter. That does not suggest a complete tear down.

Again, check your extractor rod and under your extraction star.

Yeah and this was the first time, i think the most I and a friend put through it in one day was about 400 rounds and we had no issues.