glock 21

[vector16]

[MIAMIbaseballer]

I got when G21 when I was 14.... First gun and will always be my favorite! Congrats and enjoy!

[vector16]

Scratch the pin not wanting to come out. I just needed to REALLY hit it one time.

[CK_32]

Congrats on the pick up.

Now to shoot it

[DRAB_81]

First off, congratulations on a great 45!

I have owned (2) G21SF's, a G30SF and currently have (2) G20SF's & a GEN 4 G21. I wouldn't necessarily say that you have a GEN 4 trigger bar, I think the bump is standard on the Large Frame Glocks. All my SF's have had the bump on the trigger bar, so it's nothing to worry about. The bump actually serves a purpose. It rides against the slide & prevents the trigger bar from flexing so far that it doesn't engage the firing pin safety. There are a few reasons that the recoil is so different between the G21 & 1911. The lower bore axis helps keep the muzzle flatter, the wider frame distributes the recoil better in the hand & I think polymer absorbs recoil better than steel.


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[003]

Be happy to help you remove the "trigger" pin, which is the one you are having trouble with. Let me begin by stating I am a factory trained Glock Armorer, and getting the pin out is really very simple. The pin in question has two groves that go all the way aound it. This pin holds the slide stop lever in place. First take the top pin out, which is the locking block pin. Then put your thumb on the slide stop lever and wiggle it a small amount back and forth, front to back while at the same time pushing out the trigger pin. What you have to do is clear the two groves in the pin from the hole in the slide stop lever. Once clear, the pin will push out with little pressure. DO NOT USE A HAMMER, DO NOT push too hard. It will take the same amount of pressure to remove this pin as the other two, no more. If you did already "Hit" it hard one time, check to see if you bent the slide stop lever in any manner, or enlarged the hole.

According to GLock the top pin (locking block pin) is the first out and first in, and all pins should be remove from left to right and installed from right to left. Does it matter, I am not sure it does, but Glock teaches it that way, so who am I to argue.

If you continue to have a problem, PM me and I will give you my phone number so that I can talk you through it on the phone.

Lastly, excellent decision on your 21 purchase, a really fine gun.

[Oceanbob]

My Glock 21s (gen 2, gen 3 and gen 4) are my favorite .45s these days.

The lower pin is held in a groove by the slide release. Just move the slide release fore and aft with your thumb while pushing a little on the pin. It will slide right out. Never use a hammer.

[vector16]

The pin in question has two groves that go all the way aound it. This pin holds the slide stop lever in place. First take the top pin out, which is the locking block pin. Then put your thumb on the slide stop lever and wiggle it a small amount back and forth, front to back while at the same time pushing out the trigger pin. What you have to do is clear the two groves in the pin from the hole in the slide stop lever. Once clear, the pin will push out with little pressure.

Wow that way is sure alot easier than what i was doing. Thax. Now I kow. It does not seem that I enlarged to hole at all.

[vector16]

I wonder why glock does not include the Glock tool with the gun? You have to buy this seperately. I have to use a little punch or screw driver

[003]

Happy to help. If you have any others questions, please ask.

The Glock Armorer's tool is nothing more than a 3/32 punch. Just about anything that size will work.

[DRAB_81]

I wonder why glock does not include the Glock tool with the gun? You have to buy this seperately. I have to use a little punch or screw driver

Mainly because they don't want the average gun owner going past field stripping. They give them to certified Glock Armorers at the class, but you have to be LE or a GSSF member to attend. I'm cheap, so I just ground off the end of a jewelers screw driver, and wrapped the handle in duct tape to give it a better grip. It looks like a prison shank, but it works.

On a side note, if you buy a 3/32 punch from Home Depot like I did, be careful using it to remove mag base plates. I had one, and when I tried to pop off a base plate, it snapped and made a nice big hole in my hand. I don't think it could have made a more perfect jagged hand puncturing device.

[vector16]

I had one, and when I tried to pop off a base plate, it snapped and made a nice big hole in my hand. I don't think it could have made a more perfect jagged hand puncturing device.

LMFAO!!!
Yep, been there. I have found on the mag base plate, after you push in the little button thing, take a flat head screw driver and put the tip onto the small space at the front of the amg between the mag and the base plate a turn the flat head 90 deg. The base plate slides right off. The whole sticking the tool in the hole and pushing downward is a good way to pierce your hand when the tool breaks.

[vector16]

Happy to help. If you have any others questions, please ask.

I purchased the extended slide release for it already, is the 3.5 lb Ghost trigger worth putting on for $19? Does it really make that much of a differents?
Also I saw a trigger that can eliminate the travel on on the trigger is that something you would recommend?

[Arson]

Once you push the pins out the first time, they become a little bit easier to push out the next time.