wheel gun questions

[WDE91]

Well with my 21st birthday coming up soon
I was thinking of maybe adding a wheel gun to the collection

I know I want .357
I am thinking either a 4" or 6"
Im leaning towards blued
I love the classy feel and look of wood and blued

I want a gun that can be a jack of all trades
not stupidly huge
not tiny tiny

I saw that Smith and Wesson recently rereleased the 586 and this has kinda peaked my interest
This was a 2012 SHOT show release
How are the new 586's?

Mind you I am in college so well I would love a Python I dont really see that being a reality right now

Thank you for your help
Joseph Kearns

[rgs1975]

586's are awesome. Do a bit of searching for a used one with out the lock. You will never regret it. 4" is probably more versatile than 6" but 6" is pretty cool too. If you want something with fixed sights find yourself a nice 581 although those are pretty darn hard to come across in CA. Another excellent option would be a Model 13. The 13 is a K frame where the 586/581 is an L frame. The 13 won't have the big full lug barrel but maybe you're looking for something not as heavy as a 586 and the 13 would fit the bill.

ps. I prefer blue'd over stainless with S&W revolvers too

[WDE91]

I keep hearing that I should go without lock but why is that??

Is it because it is more sought after just for what it is?
What makes it better?
Is it just "old think" how some people still hold onto the idea that seatbelts cause more harm than good?

I am truely interested in lock vs no lock and have never actually understood it

Thank you for your help
Joseph Kearns

[shooting4life]

Go pre lock. I think the lock is ugly. Plus pre lock revolvers generally have a better fit and finish compared to new revolvers. Also, most do not have MIM parts. I would check gunbroker for a used pre 27 or pre 28. Since it is c&r it can be easily shipped into the state and it would be of better quality compared to a new revolver. Here is my 27-2.

[schneiderguy]

I keep hearing that I should go without lock but why is that??

Is it because it is more sought after just for what it is?
What makes it better?
Is it just "old think" how some people still hold onto the idea that seatbelts cause more harm than good?

I am truely interested in lock vs no lock and have never actually understood it

Thank you for your help
Joseph Kearns

Most of the hate for the lock comes from one of three reasons:

1. They don't like the way it looks
2. They are ideologically opposed to having a "safety device" on their gun
3. They're concerned about it locking up under recoil

My only revolver (a S&W Model 63 in .22lr) has the lock and it doesn't bother me. Would I prefer to not have it? Yes, but the current production S&W revolvers are still nice guns even with the dreaded "Hillary Hole".

[PanaDP]

Check out the ruger security six. They're very affordable and great competitors to smith and wessons.

[WDE91]

Most of the hate for the lock comes from one of three reasons:

1. They don't like the way it looks
2. They are ideologically opposed to having a "safety device" on their gun
3. They're concerned about it locking up under recoil

My only revolver (a S&W Model 63 in .22lr) has the lock and it doesn't bother me. Would I prefer to not have it? Yes, but the current production S&W revolvers are still nice guns even with the dreaded "Hillary Hole".

I am completely new to wheel guns
I have shot them a couple of times but never really had much of an understanding
besides double action VS single action,unload,reload and shooting
Glock guy here and those are pretty much monkey proof

thank you for the above with those 3 reasons
how does the lock come into play and how does it work?
If something goes wrong it simply stops the hammer from falling

Is the fear of having it lock up during recoil something that is actually based in it happening or just preceived ideas and FUD?

So it sounds like the lock came around during the dark days of the 1990's with the Clintons and the anti hayday??

[ckprax]

Go with a 4" for an all purpose gun. The 6" full lug L frame are very nose heavy and the balance is off. I have a 4" 686-3 and it is a tack driver. Shooting full house 357Mag is still enjoyable and it looks great.

I agree with the others that if you have patience you should hold out for a pre-lock gun. It will be better quality, look better and cost several hundred dollars less. All pluses in my book.

[JTROKS]

I can't even believe the prices on new revolvers. If you can find a used but in excellent condition 4" 586 that is pre-lock will be my advise. Of course the Ruger GP100 in 4" stainless is a very utilitarian revolver and my pick when it comes to revolver that will be shot a lot. Blue and wood is so nice for a collector's piece, but a shooter piece needs a very durable finish that will resist wear and corrosion. Just my 2bits.

[WDE91]

Go with a 4" for an all purpose gun. The 6" full lug L frame are very nose heavy and the balance is off. I have a 4" 686-3 and it is a tack driver. Shooting full house 357Mag is still enjoyable and it looks great.

I agree with the others that if you have patience you should hold out for a pre-lock gun. It will be better quality, look better and cost several hundred dollars less. All pluses in my book.

Hmm so it sounds like the 4" is more useable
where as 6" is more awkward and more of a range gun

[schneiderguy]

I am completely new to wheel guns
I have shot them a couple of times but never really had much of an understanding
besides double action VS single action,unload,reload and shooting
Glock guy here and those are pretty much monkey proof

thank you for the above with those 3 reasons
how does the lock come into play and how does it work?
If something goes wrong it simply stops the hammer from falling

Is the fear of having it lock up during recoil something that is actually based in it happening or just preceived ideas and FUD?

So it sounds like the lock came around during the dark days of the 1990's with the Clintons and the anti hayday??

It's the little hole right above the cylinder release. If you stick the key in and turn it blocks the hammer from going back.

There's been a few reports of guns locking up spontaneously, but a vast majority are from the lightweight aluminum/scandium framed guns.

If you think about how the lock works, it should be pretty difficult to get it to engage spontaneously. It can't engage when the hammer is all the way forward (which is how the hammer is after the trigger is pulled). So you pull the trigger, the gun fires, and unless you manage to pull your finger off the trigger before the gun finishes recoiling it's impossible for the gun to lock up. I have a sneaking suspicion that some reported "lock failures" aren't actually the lock failing, but other parts of the gun breaking. Even a S&W revolvers break once in a while

So I wouldn't worry about it, personally. Especially on a heavy steel frame gun.

[redhemi]

If you want a work horse check out a Ruger GP100. These are great guns at a fair price. I have a 4" SS and really enjoy shooting it, it's accurate, nice balance and built like a tank. When I first got it the trigger was a little hard but with a easy spring change and a little polishing it's nice and smooth with a easy pull.

[greybeard]

A new 586 (classic) will be expensive. A 686 same gun just stainless will be less. I have heard that some of the early lock guns had problems. I own several Smiths with locks and have had no problems with them. I am not sure why the hate on MIM parts, they are probably stronger then cast.

[schneiderguy]

A new 586 (classic) will be expensive. A 686 same gun just stainless will be less. I have heard that some of the early lock guns had problems. I own several Smiths with locks and have had no problems with them. I am not sure why the hate on MIM parts, they are probably stronger then cast.

The 586 classic actually has a lower MSRP than the 686.

[ojisan]

Check out the ruger security six. They're very affordable and great competitors to smith and wessons.

Stronger than a K frame Smith and smaller than an L frame.
Around $350 ~ 400 which might fit your budget better than the Smiths at $400 ~ 600.

The 4" barrel does it all, 6" is better for range and hunting use.
Get at least a 4" barrel to get the best from the .357 Mag cartridge.