Converting CZ compact to SAO with Shadow slide

[ruchik]

So I am going to convert my CZ 75 compact into a SAO gun, and run a CZ Shadow slide and barrel on it. Since the Shadow has no firing pin block, the corresponding parts have to be removed from the frame. To all CZ experts, I need confirmation of what needs to be done. I need to remove the firing pin block lifter, the lifter spring, DA disconnector, and replace the gap left behind by the lifter with either a spacer or pre-B sear, correct? Can anyone tell me exactly what the part number is on the disconnector?

[zfields]

Thought you needed to change the hammer also.

for the spacer, I believe CZ custom sells it,

http://czcustom.com/CZ-75-Firing-Pin-Lifter-Spacer.aspx

[JeremyS]

CZ Custom has been out of stock on that spacer for at least a few months. You could make your own, or just swap in the Pre B sear. Better yet, buy a Pre B sear and send it to Cajun Gun works to be mated to a new hammer and whatever other parts are needed to convert to SAO. I also REALLY like the single action flat trigger.

[zfields]

CZ Custom has been out of stock on that spacer for at least a few months. You could make your own, or just swap in the Pre B sear. Better yet, buy a Pre B sear and send it to Cajun Gun works to be mated to a new hammer and whatever other parts are needed to convert to SAO. I also REALLY like the single action flat trigger.

+1. David is the man to deal with.

[smeg]

Another +1 for David at CGW.

I recently received and installed one of his hammer/sear kits for my cz75 SA. It was kit3 with a modified Shadow hammer. The results were better than I expected for a drop in kit. Actually I can't see how it could improved upon at all. No creep, super clean break.

How are you planning to change/modified your hammer and sear?

[ruchik]

I was under the impression no new hammer or parts was needed, beyond the spacer or pre-B sear. What model hammer would I need?

[zfields]

Sorry, you dont NEED a new hammer, but it will GREATLY improve the SA trigger pull, and eliminate the camming of it. Also the SAO trigger is different then the DA trigger. Im sure you could keep the original trigger, but the SA's have less pretravel from what Ive knoticed.

Are you trying to do bare minimum, or actually make it a good shooter like a shadow should be : )
If just minimum, just remove the disconnector, and add the spacer.


*edit* you DO need to change the trigger.

http://czcustom.com/cz75satriggerfactoryalloy.aspx

[ruchik]

Ah. I'm just trying to do the bare minimum here. Later on down the road I will probably get a trigger job on it. So I need the Shadow slide assembly with its guts, SAO trigger, and have to remove the FPB lifter, spring, and disconnector. I'm going to keep the stock hammer for now, probably change that out with the trigger job.

[zfields]

Dont bother sending it out for a trigger job, CGW kit + a little polishing and your GTG. Can get your down to 5lbs from what I keep seeing very easily.If you really want to get it tweaked down farther, then send it out.

[JeremyS]

Yeah CGW will ship you a matched sear and hammer and you just drop 'em into your gun.

But yeah, bare minimum would be simply swapping your trigger out for the SAO one and calling it a day. Everything else we're talking about is extra stuff, including the whole new 'upper' and removing the FPB and stuff. While you have it taken apart to modify the sear or put a new sear in, you might as well drop a "tuned" one in. Heck, you could send the Pre B sear and your factory, existing hammer to CGW and he can do the work. That might run like $50 total. Since you're already talking about well over $500 with the upper and the new trigger and whatnot, I'd definitely save a copule more bucks and do it all in one fail swoop. ...just my $0.02 though...

...It was kit3 with a modified Shadow hammer. The results were better than I expected for a drop in kit. Actually I can't see how it could improved upon at all. No creep, super clean break.

I did the same thing. The Shadow hammer is great because it's heavier. Reliable ignition even with the lighter hammer spring. It even works with my Kadet upper, actually, and almost everyone (including CZ Custom) says a lighter hammer spring will not typically fire .22LR. I think the only reason it fires pretty reliably is the higher mass hammer.

...and ditto... ZERO hammer camming and super clean break.

[ruchik]

Fair enough. The reason I would be taking out the FPB parts would be because the Shadow slide assembly has no provision for a FPB.

Incidentally, does removing the FPB make the gun any less safe? I would imagine it's rather like a Series 70 1911 or early BHP.

[zfields]

Fair enough. The reason I would be taking out the FPB parts would be because the Shadow slide assembly has no provision for a FPB.

Incidentally, does removing the FPB make the gun any less safe? I would imagine it's rather like a Series 70 1911 or early BHP.

bingo. If for some reason the hammer drops, of the firing pin is hit, there is nothing stoping it from hitting the primer.


If this is a competition gun, I can understand why the shadow slide is a big deal, but I would consider the trigger work as more important. If this is an HD/carry piece, I would see no reason for a shadow slide, but thats just me.

[JeremyS]

Yeah if the hammer is down and the gun is chambered, a hit to the hammer could/would cause it to fire. Some primers are pretty soft, and it wouldn't take much of a bump to the hammer to do it. The CZ's do have a half-cocked notch though, and if it were my gun and I had reason to have it chambered and not actually being shot, I'd either have it at half cock or fully cocked with the safety on.

But then again, if it were my gun and I had any reason to chamber the gun without intending to immediately begin shooting, I wouldn't remove the FPB. I might be more inclined to safety than some people, but if I was going to carry this gun I would retain the block. I'm not removing it in my SP-01 because I use it for HD and one day will carry it (in winter months in WA sometimes). It's not that bad when I use it for target shooting or the occassional competition. It's a light spring and doesn't affect me. Certainly I'm not talented enough that removing it would actually improve my accuracy or competition scores ...without the block, it would probably never have a live round in the chamber until I was ready to fire...


P.S. -- If you just want a longer barrel for accuracy, you could get a 4.7" or even 6" extended barrel, just swap it out for your compact one in the same 'upper,' and do the switch to SAO as well. That would improve the trigger in a really huge way, even if the FPB is still in place.

[zfields]

Yeah if the hammer is down and the gun is chambered, a hit to the hammer could/would cause it to fire. Some primers are pretty soft, and it wouldn't take much of a bump to the hammer to do it. The CZ's do have a half-cocked notch though, and if it were my gun and I had reason to have it chambered and not actually being shot, I'd either have it at half cock or fully cocked with the safety on.

But then again, if it were my gun and I had any reason to chamber the gun without intending to immediately begin shooting, I wouldn't remove the FPB. I might be more inclined to safety than some people, but if I was going to carry this gun I would retain the block. I'm not removing it in my SP-01 because I use it for HD and one day will carry it (in winter months in WA sometimes). It's not that bad when I use it for target shooting or the occassional competition. It's a light spring and doesn't affect me. Certainly I'm not talented enough that removing it would actually improve my accuracy or competition scores ...without the block, it would probably never have a live round in the chamber until I was ready to fire...


P.S. -- If you just want a longer barrel for accuracy, you could get a 4.7" or even 6" extended barrel, just swap it out for your compact one in the same 'upper,' and do the switch to SAO as well. That would improve the trigger in a really huge way, even if the FPB is still in place.

Now if I could just find some 8" barrels....

[ruchik]

I appreciate the replies. I'm actually not going to be using the gun for competition, more for defensive purposes. This gun would only ever be carried or used cocked and locked. The reason I'd like to use a longer slide is because I had two guns that had short grips with longer slides (an M&P and XD, both with full length slides and grip chops). I really like the format, longer slide and shorter grip. This is a case where need and want are pretty much the same. The only other option for me would be to buy a completely new CZ 75 and swap the slide over from that. But then I'd have a gun that would be completely useless to me except for spare parts (maybe). I'd also like the option to eliminate the takeup in the trigger, and set the trigger position at rest further back as I have a short reach with my small hands.