1911 Stainless Steel frame rusting...

[echang86]

Been fighting rust on my stainless steel 1911 frame for two or three months. Every three weeks or so I'll notice tiny freckles of rust popping up.

Here are pictures of where it's the worst on the frame.



I've tried the following solutions with a brass brush:
- KleenBore Formula 3
- Tetra Gun Copper Solvent
- Break Free CLP
- Hoppe's Elite
- FrogLube

Anybody got any ideas on how to get rid of this?

[sirgiles]

Stainless does not "rust" as you think of regular steel rusting with a red oxide on the surface that flakes off. If you see red rust it is probably due to some iron particles that have contaminated the surface of the stainless steel and it is these iron particles that are rusting. Look at the source of the rusting and see if you can remove it from the surface. If the iron is embedded in the surface, you can try a solution of 10% nitric and 2% hydrofluoric acid at room temperature or slightly heated. Wash area well with lots and lots of water after use. Commercially available "pickling paste" can also be used. See "The Care and Cleaning of Stainless Steel" for more information.

from: http://www.ssina.com/faq/index.html#3

personally, ive used vinegar.

[psango]

Jelmar CL-42 CLR I have used this and a non ferrous scouring pad "scotch bright" on rusted stainless gun parts it usually did the trick. Then lubricate and protect with "Gunzilla CLP" or "Break Free CLP"

http://www.amazon.com/Jelmar-CL-42-Enhanced-Calcium-Remover/dp/B0039RT1SI/ref=sr_1_46?ie=UTF8&qid=1319437070&sr=8-46

If not you might have to chose a more no aggressive rust remover. Do not get this on blued parts in will remove the bluing.

I'm sue others will be along with lots of suggestions for rust removal methods. You may want to review you storage conditions for sources of moisture.

[Q619]

Hoppes #9. Soak it, let it sit for a bit and then scrape at the corrosion with either the sharp edge of a spent .22 casing or some brass wool.

Failing that, you'll probably have to either media blast or polish it off. If you can clean it up and then take measures to keep it from getting worse then I'd just shoot it and not worry

Try cleaning under your grips with #9 every so often and lay down a film of grease to help protect against corrosion before you secure your grips. Stainless is corrosion resistant...not proof. You still need to protect it with something if it's being subjected to potentially corrosive agents such as sweat.

[chim-chim7]

Definately not rust, but looks more like contamination from possible cleaners. Seeing how the staining is under the grip and what appears to be the mainspring housing. When you clean your gun do you take the grips off or just wipe around them. If you do remove them do you provide ample time for the cleaner to dry before installing the grips. I have seen this before, there was a guy who just sprayed his whole gun down with gun scrubber and didnt remove a thing. Well the cleaner crept under the grips and into every close crevice. When the crap dried it left heavy staining on those surfaces.

I would use a solution of warm water, mild dishsoap, and a red or gray 3M pad. Dish soap will actually do a better job of breaking up the old cleaner because of the defatting agents, then just using another harsh chemicle to your stainless. Dry very well with a hairdryer or air compresor. Then just add some lube to the moving parts. Stainless pistols don't need much in the way of corrosion protection as they are naturally resistant. My stainless pistols only get "Sheila Shine" and nothing else. http://www.sheilashine.com/

[echang86]

Definately not rust, but looks more like contamination from possible cleaners. Seeing how the staining is under the grip and what appears to be the mainspring housing. When you clean your gun do you take the grips off or just wipe around them. If you do remove them do you provide ample time for the cleaner to dry before installing the grips. I have seen this before, there was a guy who just sprayed his whole gun down with gun scrubber and didnt remove a thing. Well the cleaner crept under the grips and into every close crevice. When the crap dried it left heavy staining on those surfaces.

I would use a solution of warm water, mild dishsoap, and a red or gray 3M pad. Dish soap will actually do a better job of breaking up the old cleaner because of the defatting agents, then just using another harsh chemicle to your stainless. Dry very well with a hairdryer or air compresor. Then just add some lube to the moving parts. Stainless pistols don't need much in the way of corrosion protection as they are naturally resistant. My stainless pistols only get "Sheila Shine" and nothing else. http://www.sheilashine.com/

Thanks, this sounds exactly like my situation. Is it possible that this chemical contamination can cause rust? Cause I'm noticing brown/red freckles pop up. It easily comes off though.

[hybridatsun350]

Who is the manufacturer of this pistol? Certain types of (lower quality) stainless steel can definitely rust, but as someone mentioned previously, a lot of that looks like oil and dirt that has been sitting (under the grips).

[Apec]

Heh, that's why I prefer alloy frames. Aluminum/Scandium doesn't rust.

Sentry solutions Tuff glide/Tuf cloth might do the trick. The Marine version is thicker than the regular version.

[echang86]

Who is the manufacturer of this pistol? Certain types of (lower quality) stainless steel can definitely rust, but as someone mentioned previously, a lot of that looks like oil and dirt that has been sitting (under the grips).

Springfield Armory.

I don't know if they have poor quality stainless steel or not. I do know that there was oil under the grips for a month or so, which is cause of all this. I had no clue oil could do that.

[PRCABR4Christ]

use some 0000 steel wool and oil, we have some specific rust inhibitor at the shop, if I remember I'll go look and see what it is...it foams and works pretty good on guns with heavy rust (we've cleaned some real boogers with that stuff)

[ckprax]

Stainless does not "rust" as you think of regular steel rusting with a red oxide on the surface that flakes off. If you see red rust it is probably due to some iron particles that have contaminated the surface of the stainless steel and it is these iron particles that are rusting. Look at the source of the rusting and see if you can remove it from the surface. If the iron is embedded in the surface, you can try a solution of 10% nitric and 2% hydrofluoric acid at room temperature or slightly heated. Wash area well with lots and lots of water after use. Commercially available "pickling paste" can also be used. See "The Care and Cleaning of Stainless Steel" for more information.

from: http://www.ssina.com/faq/index.html#3

personally, ive used vinegar.

Please do not use or suggest the use of HF, it is incredibly dangerous. For those who don't know it will absorb through your skin and dissolve your bones, it can also cause respiratory problems even in small concentrations. A mild acid such as citric will help remove oxidation but should not be necessary. I have always used some oil and brass wool to remove rust on a firearm.

[sirgiles]

Please do not use or suggest the use of HF, it is incredibly dangerous. For those who don't know it will absorb through your skin and dissolve your bones, it can also cause respiratory problems even in small concentrations. A mild acid such as citric will help remove oxidation but should not be necessary. I have always used some oil and brass wool to remove rust on a firearm.

please do not use the suggested mechanical abrasive wool as this will definitely strip the stainless steel. as for the suggested HF, look at the concentration, its diluted just like your citrus juice. if you have no idea of chemistry or the composition of stainless steel, i suggest you simply use commercially available rust removers.

[sholling]

Depending on the formulation some stainless steels can and do rust (surface rust). There are stainless alloys that are formulated for maximum corrosion resistance (usually nasty to machine though), others trade a bit of that resistance for a formulation that's easier to machine, while other formulations may be more wear resistant and durable. The formulations used by most handgun manufacturers are not completely rustproof just reasonably corrosion resistant as long as it's properly maintained.

Bottom line: You still need to maintain your weapons and keep a light coating of a protectant like Break-Free on them.

I would contact the manufacturer and ask them for suggestions.

[gibt]

I have two Springers and don't have any rust on either of them. I use a light coating of oil when I wipe them down. I do own a S&W 66 that has pitting on the frame and it was there when I bought it used. I think I'll media blast it to hide the pits. I was told that blood and even some peoples sweat can cause this pitting to stainless. I was also told don't use steel wool on your stainless it will attract rust. Use a scotch brite pad or brass wool as has been suggested.

[Kruzr]

ALL stainless steel used for guns can indeed rust. Guns are made with a 400 Series stainless which contains iron. 300 Series stainless steel won't rust since Nickel is substituted for the iron but it cannot be hardened.

As they say, it is stain less, not stain proof.

It is definitely rust and if you notice, is in the places where your hand is in most contact with the gun. Those are common places to find rust. Sweat can be corrosive. You need to be diligent in cleaning under the grips. I put a thin coat of grease under the rear of the grips that helps. You could do the same on the edges of the MSH.