Kimber fail to feed

[FatKatMatt]

I've had my Kimber Tactical II since March, and since then it's constantly had failures to feed; the factory magazine is a piece of crap so it's understandable if that malfunctions the gun, but I recently got some new Chip McCormick Power Mags that jam as well. I can only assume now that it's a gun issue and not a magazine issue; basically the pistol will never full feed the round, and I have to hit the back of the slide to chamber it all the way; this happens every ten to twenty rounds. Is there anything I can do to alleviate this?

Thanks,
Matt

[virulosity]

Check the chamber for lead and or burrs. Is this a new gun? My USP elite jammed every 50th round for the first 500 rounds in a similar situation until it broke in. I think target pistols have tight chambers. Run some steel cased wolf through it to accelerate the wear

[FatKatMatt]

I've put about 1000 rounds through it as of today. I'll try some wolf if I can get my hands on any.

[elenius]

What kind of ammo? I've only had that problem with my own reloads (loaded too long)

Also, make sure the gun is clean, and oil/grease it in the right places.

[FatKatMatt]

It's done this with Federal American Eagle, Winchester White Box and Magtech

[MedSpec65]

Kimber's website shows your Tactical II has an aluminum frame. I suggest you examine the feed ramp area on your pistol for gouges. I've heard many stories of aluminum frame Kimbers getting badly mauled by steel followers, especially those on Kimber mags. You can get some Super 7 Upgrade Kits from www.trippresearch.com for $7.95 ea and replace the guts in all your mags, including your McCormicks. The followers are hybrids; polymer with a steel ledge to connect to your slide stop. Other members have agreed this is a good solution. Good luck. Also, steel-case Wolf ammo can bust the extractor on some pistols. Careful.

[t001]

Yeah, some Kimbers are known to do this. An internal-extractored TLE I shot would fail to feed on the last round of the magazine every so often. Also failure to eject on the last round, too, though less frequently. Using Wilson 47D's and CMC mags didn't really help all that much. It was a fairly new gun, w/ about 500 rounds through it, and the pistol class I was using it for added another 500 or so rounds. There've been ongoing discussions on Kimber's feeding problems in various forums. Check out some of the threads on 1911forum.com Kimber Subforum.

Some people say it's mostly attributable to extractor tension, especially when Kimber used external extractors. Others say it's just a breaking-in problems (although a NIB Colt Series 80 I tried never experienced similar break-in issues. Still yet others say it's Kimber's lack of QC. Many people say theirs run perfectly, so YMMV....

[EastBayRidge]

My Custom II had a very tight extractor and failed to extract/feed consistently. Took it to the shop after a few hundred rounds down the pipe, they loosened her up, and since then no problems that aren't caused by yours truly.

[Kruzr]

Kimber's website shows your Tactical II has an aluminum frame. I suggest you examine the feed ramp area on your pistol for gouges. I've heard many stories of aluminum frame Kimbers getting badly mauled by steel followers, especially those on Kimber mags. You can get some Super 7 Upgrade Kits from www.trippresearch.com for $7.95 ea and replace the guts in all your mags, including your McCormicks. The followers are hybrids; polymer with a steel ledge to connect to your slide stop. Other members have agreed this is a good solution. Good luck. Also, steel-case Wolf ammo can bust the extractor on some pistols. Careful.

The damage to the alloy frames is under the ramp. It's caused by the lower follower of the Chip Mc. mags with the split follower.

I'd forget the Wolf ammo and instead, check the extractor tension (assuming it's an internal extractor model.) Take the slide off, slip a loaded round under the extractor to the point where the primer is over the FP hole. Shake the slide mildly. The round should wobble but not fall out. If it's tight to the breechface, then it's too tight. If the round falls, it's too loose and needs more tension. If it seems too tight, then make sure the extractor channel is clean and check it again.

[smokycuh]

this is good i read this. because i really was interested in buying a stainless or custom kimber.

[Bobula]

Send it back to kimber! They'' take care of you, right?

[DANGERCLOSE]

1911's all need to be tweaked in some way to become reliable. they are notorious for this. it sounds like your extractor has too much tension or that the claw is hanging on the rim. the claw may be too sharp. common for this series. my para was like that, and my friends 1911s are also like that. if kimber will fix it, go that route. if not, gunsmith. beware the claw.

[glockman19]

this is good i read this. because i really was interested in buying a stainless or custom kimber.

I have 3 Kimbers and they have all been flawless. They have had their fair share of FTF in the first 50-100 rounds for one reason or another but after 500-600 rounds they are as smooth as you'd expect from a good 1911.

If after 600 rounds you're still having issues then send it back to Kimber they will take care of you.

[Franksremote]

You may want to try and change out the recoil spring. It FTF when others shoot it, yes? If so, send it (at least call) to Kimber, they'll fix it and return it in a jiffy (or troubleshoot with you on the phone).

[vandal]

Check the extractor tension. Also check the area directly opposite of the extractor (perpendicular to the breechface) for burrs. I had a Kimber with similar problems and found a raised edge directly opposite the extractor that was occasionally impeding the round from sliding up. A little filing and some polishing with a Dremel and all was good. Saved me shipping it to Kimber to have them tell me there was nothing wrong.

But it is probably too much extractor tension. With Kimber you either get too much or not enough. There are instructions at M1911.org IIRC.