Ruger GP100 - essential cleaning gear?

[EricEst1978]

I just purchased my first handgun--a ruger gp100 w/ 4in. barrel. I plan put some rounds through it on 4th of July weekend and I want to be sure I am able to clean the gun as soon as we're done firing it.

Thus far, I have purchased a bore snake. I intended to pick up some frog lube this week as well.

Apart from those to items, are there any items that you feel are essential to properly clean, and maintain my weapon?

Any advice is greatly appreciated--Hope you all have an amazing weekend.

[NewbieDave]

I would say get a basic cleaning kit from Wally World or Big 5... with the correct brush and you're GTG. Keep in mind, unless you burn couple thursands rounds in your range session, you don't need to scrub it down or anything. I routainnly leave my guns unclean for several range session... no issues.

[triplestack3]

congrats on the pickup.
brush, solvent, oil, rag = good to go

[DArBad]

In addition to what everyone mentioned, I would also add------a " specialty manual " that will guide you how to FULLY take apart the GP 100.

I bought one a few years ago for my GP 100.

[infernl]

I have the same pistol, except that mine is a 6" model. If its a stainless model, and you're a neat freak - clean it ASAP. - Also, stay clear of .38 rounds, since they blow a lot more crapola around and generally make a bigger mess.

[wang949]

I clean mine with a boresnake and brush. you'll get some crap build up on the face of the cylinder, crane, and topstrap. the boresnake is useless for cleaning those surfaces. use a brush.

Boresnake, brush, solvent, oil, rag.

[Hooligan]

Love my GP. Mine goes several range trips without cleaning. In addition to the boresnake for the barrel, you'll also want a chamber brush for the cylinder. As mentioned, you will also need an assortment of brushes for non-round surfaces.

If you shoot .38s the front of the cylinder will become dirty and not allow the longer .357 to chamber. This isn't a concern or anything to fret over. But if you intend to use both calibers during a range session, start with .357 or mix them up. Or, take the chamber brush with you. It is for this reason that I only reload .357 cases.

For a more in-depth cleaning you will also want to get the screwdriver bit thingy for dismantling the cylinder. It is available from Brownells. It is basically a flat head driver bit with a hole in the middle for removing the ejection rod.

[moulton]

I have been using almost .38 special reloads exclusively out of my 4" SS gp-100. Just remember to use a bore brush and Hoppes in the cylinder. I also came to find that Brake cleaner (non Chlorinated) will remove the blackening on the front of the cylinder.....real nifty.

[1JimMarch]

Use a brass or aluminum cleaning rod - NOT STEEL, never steel.

[Turbinator]

Use a brass or aluminum cleaning rod - NOT STEEL, never steel.

Yup - and one bit of advice I'd also offer is to make sure you wipe the cleaning rod after brushing, it helps keep particles and dirt from getting back into the bore when you go back to swab it again. Same with the bore brush.. I roll mine around in an old sock to soak up the fouling before I scrub the bore again.

Turby

[rogervzv]

You will need:

1. Copper or bronz 38 caliber bore brush for the barrel.

2. I use a 45 bore brush for the cylinders because they are wider than the barrel.

3. Hoppes #9 bore cleaner.

4. 38 caliber patches. After you have run the brushes down the barrel and cylinder to knock the crud out, run cloth patches down, first soaked in Hoppes 9, then dry. When the dry patches come out clean your barrel and cylinder are clean.

5. If you have a stainless steel GP 100 you will want a Bronze toothbrush-style brush to clean the black crud off of the front and back of the cylinder. Soak the bronze brush in Hoppes #9 and scrub the front and back of the cylinder, and the area around the forcing cone. The black crud will come off relatively quickly, i.e. one to two minutes tops. For a stainless gun only, a Lead-Away cloth also works, but I have been using the bronze brush/Hoppes 9 approach.

6. Clean the rest of the gun with gun cleaner. I use Mil Tech 7 gun cleaner, which is nothing but hi tech soap.

This may sound like a lot of cleaning, but in reality I can have my GP100 looking brand-new in about 20 minutes. I respectfully disagree with the notion of leaving the gun uncleaned after a range session. In the Army they taught us that you take care of your piece, and it will take care of you. Good advice. It simply cannot be good for a gun to leave gunpowder residue on and in the mechanism. Clean it and enjoy it.

[utvtactical]

just purhase froglube clp

You don't need anything but froglube 100% biodegradable cleaner/lubricant. Last week I cleaned and lube a gp100 s/s for a soldier and after shooting, switched to froglube.

Froglube is safer and easier to use and great for your firearms. Go to YouTube and see what others have done with it. WWW.utvtactical.com

[mnh2obuff]

I use the Otis cleaning system on my guns along with a bronze cleaning brush. Occasionally a few strains of copper Chore Boy. I've just started using Kroil. I run a wet patch through when I get home and let it sit until later when I do the thorough cleaning. It seems to make the job go much quicker.

[gorenut]

I use the Otis cleaning system on my guns along with a bronze cleaning brush. Occasionally a few strains of copper Chore Boy

This. I use the Otis kit because it allows you to clean a revolver from breach to muzzle unlike traditional rod. Also, I use Chore Boy if there is lead build up inside the barrel.