Wolf in a 1911 Results

[fast318]

Alright everybody, the other day I fired 150rds of Wolf through my Colt 1911 and I did not have one FTF or FTE. I wan't shooting at paper so I can't give you an accurate group size, but I had no problem hitting cans at just over 15 yards.

Next time I go out to a range i'll see what kind of groups I can get.

The only problem I had when I went out was with my Ruger 10/22, it would consistently fail to chamber a round while firing.

[69Mach1]

Yeah, I've not had any problems with Wolf in my 1911 either. However, if you go to an indoor range that allows Wolf steel case, you'll notice the
a) stench and
b) excessive smoke.

But it's no big deal for me.

[CWM4A1]

Wait till you look at the barrel and have to clean the fouling out... I have fired about total of 1000 rounds of Wolf .45 out of my Springfield 1911 GI before I decide to modify it... What a nightmare that was. Now all my 1911 have steady diet of homemade reload, and that's cheaper and much cleaner then buying Wolf (230gr Copper coated FMJ, 5.6gr Hodgdon Universal Clays, Winchester primer)

[fast318]

You mean I have to clean it? Damn it! I can't wait till my son is old enough to clean my toys.

[Shenaniguns]

That's not the problem... The Steel casings are tough on your extractor, but hey it's your gun so do what you want.

Alright everybody, the other day I fired 150rds of Wolf through my Colt 1911 and I did not have one FTF or FTE. I wan't shooting at paper so I can't give you an accurate group size, but I had no problem hitting cans at just over 15 yards.

Next time I go out to a range i'll see what kind of groups I can get.

The only problem I had when I went out was with my Ruger 10/22, it would consistently fail to chamber a round while firing.

[CWM4A1]

I really don't understand why people alway want to say Wolf's soft steel casing is going to cause problem:

1. Fired 1000rd in my Springfield 1911GI with no notable wear.

2. Fired at least 10,000rds in my AR, no need to replace extractor yet.

3. The steel used for your extractor is a lot harder then the soft steel used for Wolf's casing.

4. For those who don't reload and buy Wolf instead of brass casing ammo for the money saving, by the time the extractor does break, they will save enough $$ to buy a new extractor, if not a new barrel altogether.

I use Wolf strictly for plinking. It does has it's share of problem: dirty powder (smoke and carbon build-up), nasty smell and did I mention it's dirty? But as long as your gun runs fine with it and you don't mind extra time needed to clean your gun, shoot away.

[aplinker]

I really don't understand why people alway want to say Wolf's soft steel casing is going to cause problem:

1. Fired 1000rd in my Springfield 1911GI with no notable wear.

2. Fired at least 10,000rds in my AR, no need to replace extractor yet.

3. The steel used for your extractor is a lot harder then the soft steel used for Wolf's casing.

4. For those who don't reload and buy Wolf instead of brass casing ammo for the money saving, by the time the extractor does break, they will save enough $$ to buy a new extractor, if not a new barrel altogether.

I use Wolf strictly for plinking. It does has it's share of problem: dirty powder (smoke and carbon build-up), nasty smell and did I mention it's dirty? But as long as your gun runs fine with it and you don't mind extra time needed to clean your gun, shoot away.

I agree. The "wear" on a gun is never a reason. If it wears out 4X's as fast, that just means you MIGHT have to replace it in this lifetime, instead of having your grandkids do it. If it caused breakage, that's a different issue.

People talk about this with Wolf in ARs all the time. As though having to replace a bolt is a life-ending issue. The economics make even more sense there, where ammo prices are 50% higher in 223 ($4 vs $6/20).

If you're using it in a gun that's for plinking and not defense, who cares about perfect reliability?

There's also a big difference between using it in a Mil-Spec and a STI.

[Blademan21]

Alright everybody, the other day I fired 150rds of Wolf through my Colt 1911 and I did not have one FTF or FTE. I wan't shooting at paper so I can't give you an accurate group size, but I had no problem hitting cans at just over 15 yards.

Next time I go out to a range i'll see what kind of groups I can get.

The only problem I had when I went out was with my Ruger 10/22, it would consistently fail to chamber a round while firing.

Groups? Junk in,junk out.

Blademan21

[fast318]

Soda cans cannot tell the difference between Federal or Wolf.

[aplinker]

Soda cans cannot tell the difference between Federal or Wolf.

Maybe, but does Wolf prefer Coke or Pepsi?

[fast318]

Pepsi all the way!

[RudyN]

I would rather shoot a can of pepsi than drink it, that is for sure

[fast318]

I don't know if I'm sad or mad. Can we all agree on RC? Taste good and cheaper than the rest.

[saki302]

I don't knwo about current production, but the older case of Wolff I had would lock my Kimber Gold Match and PAra P14 limited up solid- you had to POUND the slide open. I never bought any more since.

I did finish off the case in my old Springfield 1911A1, and my .45 revolver with moon clips. Anything with a tighter match spec chamber would gag on the old stuff.

-Dave

[CWM4A1]

Older Wolf with Laquer coating and that red bullet sealent seems to cause more trouble. I have not use the old stuff in any of my gun except my SKS. New polymer coated Wolf work a lot better in reliability department. However, if accuracy is what you are looking for, STFU and buy high quality brass casing ammo, or roll your own with high quality components.