Identifying Smith and Wesson revolvers

[fireblast713]

So, I went home for a little bit and got my dad to search for a couple pistols I remember him having when I was a kid. Anyways, he eventually found them and they're in my care now (which is good because he never cleaned them... they took forever to clean). One is a .38spc revolver he says that his grandfather carried in WWI... and another is a .22lr that looks a lot newer. Is there any easy way to identify them? Additionally some of the blueing on the .38spc is coming off and I was wondering if I should try rebluing it using a kit I got at walmart? Would this damage the gun or destroy it's value? Anyways suggestions would be helpful. I'll get pics up as soon as I go back home.

[stevie]

Refinishing will usually lower value, do not use cheap reblue to finish.

Open up the cylinder, look underneath crane area the model and serial number should be listed. Example 36, 19, etc..... The serial number is usually also found one on the bottom of frame grip. Older Models may not have model number by crane..

To be legal, since you got these from father. Download fill out the form and submit to DOJ with appropriate fees.

http://caag.state.ca.us/firearms/forms/pdf/volreg.pdf

[BigMac]

That revolver will not have the model # under the crane. That didnt start happening till around 1954. You may have a victory model. Also, it may be chambered in .38s&w. The victory models I've seen have all been rechambered for .38spl. Most, however, came in .38s&w.

If your in the Bay Area come by my store and I will ID it for you.

[1911su16b870]

Jim Supica has a great book on S&W and an appendix that helps id serial numbers with year of manufacture. IIRC you can buy it at some of the larger, well stocked, public sector bookstores (Borders).

[Mr. Beretta]

Please don't mess with the finish on either untill you find out more about them. Go to the Smith & Wesson forum at http://smith-wessonforum.com/eve/forums. Post a detailed decription of your guns and somebody will tell you everything in the world about them. Good Luck!

[dfletcher]

So, I went home for a little bit and got my dad to search for a couple pistols I remember him having when I was a kid. Anyways, he eventually found them and they're in my care now (which is good because he never cleaned them... they took forever to clean). One is a .38spc revolver he says that his grandfather carried in WWI... and another is a .22lr that looks a lot newer. Is there any easy way to identify them? Additionally some of the blueing on the .38spc is coming off and I was wondering if I should try rebluing it using a kit I got at walmart? Would this damage the gun or destroy it's value? Anyways suggestions would be helpful. I'll get pics up as soon as I go back home.

Rebluing a gun, even if done by a professional, will lower the value so the advice you'll get is to leave the finish as is. If it's a modest value gun - $300.00 or so - it's not like you're losing alot of money, but an original worn finish is almost always better than a reblue. And keep in mind reblueing takes skill & talent and the right equipment and is very easy to do poorly even by a pro.

Cold rebluing is OK for front sight wear or a little holster wear on high points but I've never come across the do it yourself stuff that will do an acceptable job on an entire gun. Brownells Oxpho is pretty good, Birchwood Casey cream is OK & very easy to use on those small rubs or scratches, especially if the gun has a matte type finish. A bit of heat can help also.