Bent ejector rod

[AutoCam]

something is causing my ejector rod in my model 10 M&P to be crooked( probably just the ejector rod).
It causes some resistance of the cylinder movement when cycling through about 2 of the chambers. its not too much resistance, but im wondering if it can lead to other problems?
Thanks in advance
-C

[ojisan]

Can effect ejection of fired rounds.
Can cause the ejector rod to unscrew and stop the cylinder from opening.
They are fairly easy to replace.
Some are right hand thread, some left hand depending on year and model.

[dfletcher]

something is causing my ejector rod in my model 10 M&P to be crooked( probably just the ejector rod).
It causes some resistance of the cylinder movement when cycling through about 2 of the chambers. its not too much resistance, but im wondering if it can lead to other problems?
Thanks in advance
-C

You may also want to check and ensure there's no carbon build up on the ejector rod and yoke. I bought what looked like a clean as heck Model 14 a few years back and the action became quite stiff and had that binding feel on a few chambers. I completely disassembled the cylinder assembly and the powder build up was thick as heck. Cleaned it up and all is well. It's an easy check.

[AutoCam]

ya i've disassembled the cylinder to clean it, which is how something got bent. I replaced the ejector rod(part with the knurling) and that didnt fix it. Id rather not buy anything else because the available parts are probably all used- for such an old gun,(the center pin i ordered was actually too short-probably smithed).
I just dont want to spend any more money on this especially since the parts might not fit or might not even be the problem.

Im just wondering if its ok too leave it alone and not have it cause major problems. Im not too worried about the ejector unscrewing itself, just more metal getting bent or skewed.

[Sky_DiveR]

I guess the first question would be... was it "bent" before ya took everything apart?

I don't think the yolk and rod are that easy to bend without force. I'd say have a 'smith look at it before you "clean" anything else. What's your location so somebody can recommend one?

Btw, "K" frame parts are pretty much the same but some do need to be fitted and aren't "drop in" parts.

[AutoCam]

It might have been slightly bent before, but i definitely noticed a difference(cylinder spun less, and the rod wobbles when the cylinders open) afterword, probably when i over-tightened it.

"K" frame parts are pretty much the same but some do need to be fitted and aren't "drop in" parts.

ya i know, but how can you make a cut down center-pin at least 2mm longer? not that i need to do that.

I'm in the bay area-east bay, how much do you think it would cost if it's the ejector rod parts that just need straightening?



i might just try to straighten it myself with a rubber mallet and a very flat surface, since now i have some rubber to make a padded vice to avoid screwing it up more

[Sky_DiveR]

I was talking about parts in general. I'm not sure I know what you mean by center pin but that is irrelevant to what I'm talking about here.

The thing I'm thinkin' is.... if you swapped the ejector rod with another (new?) rod and it's still bent/wobbles, then there's a good chance there isn't a problem with the rod (just a guess). It sounds more like the ejector star (sorry used the wrong description earlier) is bent/tweaked. That is, assuming that there is nothing wrong with the ejector rod and no gunk inside or under the ejector star. That is something I would recommend a 'smith to correct since there is a potential to really mess it up and require a new ejector star and/or cylinder... which does require fitting. If it was me, I'd either just live with it being wobbly if nothing hangs up or binds while cycling the cylinder (check your recoil shield for excessive rubbing/wear) or find a 'smith to fix it. If they don't have to replace parts, I'm guessing it would be less than $100. (YMMV)

Sorry I don't know/recall any 'smiths in/around the east bay area (I'm also assuming Oakland, Concord, Vallejo, etc., east bay) that I could recommend. If you don't mind sending it or come up towards Sac sometime, I'm sure Seesm (he's a gunsmith and vendor on this site) up in Auburn would take care of you.

However you decide, good luck with your situation.

Btw, Welcome to the forum.

Edit: I re-read your first post and saw that it is binding. Do yourself a favor, have it adjusted by a 'smith. Your gun is a fine model that will last many more years if it's taken care of properly.

[AutoCam]

You're right, i probably should not try it myself... Im pretty sure some of the shops around here-Concord is closest- do some servicing, so ill check it out, they have some bad reviews online though. i have a feeling its the ejector star. Thanks for the input and welcome.
Just for motivational purposes: will this binding get worse and/or cause other problems?

[Sky_DiveR]

I don't think the binding will get worse since it'll probably wear in. Keeping that in mind... The cylinder can be replaced and the barrel can be refaced and reset. But if it wears into the recoil shield (the round part by the back of the cylinder), that's part of the frame... a 'smith may be able to weld it back up and reface. Dunno.

[swifty]

Sounds more like the cylinder rubbing on the barrel.

[AutoCam]

There's always space between the each chamber of the cylinder and barrel, so thats not a problem. Not sure if the ratchets are digging in to the recoil shield or not, it would scratch off the bluing pretty fast i think. like i said in the beginning though, the binding seems almost minimal, and only about 2 out 6 chambers seem to have extra resistance. The ejector rod only wobbles about 1/32 of an inch at most, maybe ill just suck it up.