1911 thumb safety question...

[beauregard]

I have a Chip McCormick right-hand safety that I plan to use to replace the ambi-safety my SA Loaded came with. Is this something I could do myself? I have no gunsmithing experience but can rebuild a Harley motor with my eyes closed.

[Mute]

Most of the time they'll go right in. On occasion you might have to file a bit on the safety for it to work right, but it's not rocket science.

[ojisan]

^ What he said.


(What he typed, actually, being Mute).

[TMC]

Most of the time they'll go right in. On occasion you might have to file a bit on the safety for it to work right, but it's not rocket science.

File what where?


If you don't know how the safety works then take it to a smith. It may just "drop right in" but if it doesn't engage the sear correctly there are 3 possible scenarios.

1) the safety will be touching the sear all the time so when you try and cock the hammer you will not be able to or you will break something.

2) the safety will not stop the hammer from dropping when the safety is engaged and you pull the trigger

3) the worst case scenario, the safety will engage the sear enough so it will keep the hammer from falling when the safety is engaged and the trigger is pulled but it will allow enough movement of the sear so that when you disengage the safety the gun will fire.

[kendog4570]

Take the grip safety off and observe how the manual safety blocks the sear. It must block it from any movement, yet not bind it. With the hammer cocked, and safety engaged, pull hard on the trigger. Then, without touching anything else, pull back on the hammer spur. You should not hear or feel any movement or resetting of the sear. If you do, it is allowing too much sear movement.
You may have to file some on the new part to get it to fit right, or swage some metal to properly block the sear. There might be some fitting marks on the old part to help you know where to cut the metal.

On the fitting of trigger components....less is more.
Go slow and check it often.
If you can do a motorcycle engine, then you can probably figure out the 1911 safety.
Good luck.

[beauregard]

Take the grip safety off and observe how the manual safety blocks the sear. It must block it from any movement, yet not bind it. With the hammer cocked, and safety engaged, pull hard on the trigger. Then, without touching anything else, pull back on the hammer spur. You should not hear or feel any movement or resetting of the sear. If you do, it is allowing too much sear movement.
You may have to file some on the new part to get it to fit right, or swage some metal to properly block the sear. There might be some fitting marks on the old part to help you know where to cut the metal.

On the fitting of trigger components....less is more.
Go slow and check it often.
If you can do a motorcycle engine, then you can probably figure out the 1911 safety.
Good luck.

Thanks. This makes a lot more sense than "you might have to file a bit on the safety."

[kendog4570]

Thanks. This makes a lot more sense than "you might have to file a bit on the safety."

You're welcome.
The standard caveat applies here... If you really don't understand mechanical systems, and trigger mechanisms in particular, you are better off to pay someone that does.
The 1911 is quite a bit less "plug and play" than an AR 15.
Go for it, and holler here if you get into trouble. The worse that can happen is you trash the new safety (unless you chop up some of the other parts). With any trigger work, make sure it "proves" itself over some time.

[InGrAM]

If you know how to take apart your 1911 then its quite easy.

Its easy, drop it in and your gtg. If you want to waste your money and take it to a gunsmith go a head and do it but I wouldn't.

Try doing it yourself first. If it doesn't work then take it in.

Its very simple, and you can tell right away if it doesn't work.

[BillPear]

Take the grip safety off and observe how the manual safety blocks the sear. It must block it from any movement, yet not bind it. With the hammer cocked, and safety engaged, pull hard on the trigger. Then, without touching anything else, pull back on the hammer spur. You should not hear or feel any movement or resetting of the sear. If you do, it is allowing too much sear movement.
You may have to file some on the new part to get it to fit right, or swage some metal to properly block the sear. There might be some fitting marks on the old part to help you know where to cut the metal.

On the fitting of trigger components....less is more.
Go slow and check it often.
If you can do a motorcycle engine, then you can probably figure out the 1911 safety.
Good luck.

+1 on all this, but be advised the springfield safety you are reomving is harder than most mention to disassemble. The right side is not just a simple dovetail fit like most, more of a ball and socket fit it will come out with more force than you might want to use. Many recomend using an old credit card to protect your frame but I find that they are to thick, but an old insurance card is just right

[shotcaller6]

1911 safety

You really should get get your hands on a copy of Jerry Kuhnhausen's The Colt .45 Automatic- A Shop manual, Vols. 1 & 2 and read up before you go filing anything. I'm sure you're capable of figuring it out, but knowing what you're about to do before you do it would be a wise choice.

[IPSICK]

File what where?


If you don't know how the safety works then take it to a smith. It may just "drop right in" but if it doesn't engage the sear correctly there are 3 possible scenarios.

1) the safety will be touching the sear all the time so when you try and cock the hammer you will not be able to or you will break something.

2) the safety will not stop the hammer from dropping when the safety is engaged and you pull the trigger

3) the worst case scenario, the safety will engage the sear enough so it will keep the hammer from falling when the safety is engaged and the trigger is pulled but it will allow enough movement of the sear so that when you disengage the safety the gun will fire.

Not to toot TMC's horn but the guy knows what he is talking about. He's not only one of the top shooters in the nation but he also does his own work on his guns. If you're not really sure, take it to a gunsmith. It will not be a 'waste of money'. If you're dead set on figuring it out, go right ahead but be certain you follow a very safe function test protocol.

[Malmon]

I was able to replace mine with the help of this video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9lcI-5k_hg

[Chief-7700]

File what where?


If you don't know how the safety works then take it to a smith. It may just "drop right in" but if it doesn't engage the sear correctly there are 3 possible scenarios.

1) the safety will be touching the sear all the time so when you try and cock the hammer you will not be able to or you will break something.

2) the safety will not stop the hammer from dropping when the safety is engaged and you pull the trigger

3) the worst case scenario, the safety will engage the sear enough so it will keep the hammer from falling when the safety is engaged and the trigger is pulled but it will allow enough movement of the sear so that when you disengage the safety the gun will fire.

Harley's and 1911s are two very different animals. Take the advice above.

[Moto4Fun]

HD? Rebuild? Come on, nobody ever has to rebuild those things. They're bullet proof!

[beauregard]

Harley's and 1911s are two very different animals. Take the advice above.

Heh, but the push rod v-twin and 1911 are both 1920's technology that's still used... so in that way it's not a stretch.

HD? Rebuild? Come on, nobody ever has to rebuild those things. They're bullet proof!

As for you Mr. Smartypants, when I blow up the current ride you know who I'm gonna call for a lift home (with your "bullet proof" trailer).