357SIG conversion on Glock22

[RogueSniper]

I just got a factory Glock barrel in 357SIG for the G22. Snappy round! I was shooting S&B's 140gr FMJ.

Do I need to change out the recoil spring? I didn't find any information saying the springs were different between the G22 and the G31. When I searched for replacement recoil spring/rod, they don't differentiate between the G22 and G31.

The case were flying behind me and to the right about 5-8 feet and landing pretty consistently. I could have put a bucket there to catch the rounds. Everything on the Glock is OEM internals.

[Agent Tikki]

NOPE no need
the only differences are
the barrel
the followers in your magazine (I've never has an issue with my mags)
and the stamped lettering on your slide and magazine (superficial)

I WOULD recommend that you do get different magazines for the .357 sig and .40 caliber
only because if you accidently fire .40 cal in a .357 barrel. KABOOM. AND potential kaboom when doing the reverse as the case is NOT supported in the front of the cartridge past the neck when a .357 sig is chambered into a .40 barrel.

Safety aside, its just about the easiest conversion ever!

9mm conversion is a little more involved but pretty damn easy to do!

[Agent Tikki]

Do I need to change out the recoil spring?

No. Same spring rates. Same rod. Unless you are handloading hot .40 OR .357 rounds, no need to change. In fact, the spring rates are the same for all 3 calibers for this size frame 9x19mm/.40 S&W/.357 sig. Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe its a 17lb spring from the factory for all 3 calibers.

[Cali-Shooter]

^ Like he said. ^

You only need a different barrel for a .357 sig conversion on a Glock 22. Same mags, recoil spring, firing pin, etc. all the same.

Just be sure to remember that it's chambered in .357 sig once you do the conversion, and don't forget to take the .357 sig barrel out once you're done, otherwise you might kB! your Glock thinking it's chambered in .40 by default and chamber and fire it without thinking.

[SJgunguy24]

You might want to invest in extra locking block pins. The 357sig has a max pressure spec at 40k psi while the 40 s&w runs 35k psi. That will increase the slide velocity and will start bending the locking block pin. The pin in my 17 started bending around 50k rounds.

[Agent Tikki]

get a G17 barrel $90-175, a couple G17 mags $25 each, and a 9mm ejector $18.

voila, you now have a 9mm gun semi G17.

(with the ejector swapped I've never had a FTE/FTF in over 2k rounds conbined. The ejector swap was necessary for me as without it, 9mm hot brass was flying back into my face, one actually sandwiched itself right between my eyelid and my safety goggles, NOT fun >.O )

[Grumpyoldretiredcop]

I WOULD recommend that you do get different magazines for the .357 sig and .40 caliber
only because if you accidently fire .40 cal in a .357 barrel. KABOOM. AND potential kaboom when doing the reverse as the case is NOT supported in the front of the cartridge past the neck when a .357 sig is chambered into a .40 barrel.

The first won't happen as the straightwall .40 cartridge won't fully enter the bottleneck .357 chamber. You might, however, stare at it stupidly, wondering why your slide won't close to battery, maybe even tap-rack it a couple of times before you figure it out.

The second won't happen, either. It's more like, "PFFFT" than "KABOOM". Sometimes the bullet makes it out of the barrel, sometimes not. Therein lies the potential hazard. There's plenty of space for combustion gases to exit past the undersized .357 bullet, which is why a KB in those circumstances is unlikely (I've certainly never seen one KB, but have seen quite a few go "PFFT"). Sending a second round down the possibly obstructed barrel, however, could be exciting for a second or so.

Using separate magazines does make sense, though. After seeing both of the above failures, we started keeping .40 and .357 Sig widely separated on the ammo table on range qualification days. Darn cops never read headstamps, they just grab what they think is the right box and stuff it in their mags.

[RogueSniper]

I color filled the caliber and the markings on the 357SIG barrel so I can quickly glance down and see what I installed, but I shouldn't be making that mistake. I have plenty of mags to dedicate one for 40SW and one for 357SIG. I just mark the body and mag base.
However, if I'm too distracted at the range, I shouldn't be shooting, right?

I have two 40SW barrels (one's aftermarket), one 9mm (match barrel), and the 357SIG rounds out the family.

How do test the recoil spring to see if it's getting too spongy?

[Ike Arumba]

You might want to invest in extra locking block pins. The 357sig has a max pressure spec at 40k psi while the 40 s&w runs 35k psi. That will increase the slide velocity and will start bending the locking block pin. The pin in my 17 started bending around 50k rounds.

That doesn't sound right to me. The net thrust from the 357SIG would be 40,000 psi * pi * (0.355/2)^2 = 3959 pounds, whereas the thrust from the .40S&W would be 35,000 psi * pi * (0.40/2)^2 = 4398 pounds.