Replacing the hammer on a 1911

[beauregard]

I want to replace the regular hammer on my stainless Springfield Armory Mil Spec with a commander style hammer but I'm guessing this is a lot tougher than it seems. Has anyone here done this and if so can you tell me a little about what I'm getting myself into and what else besides the hammer will need to, or should be, replaced as well?

Links to parts are appreciated.

Thanks.

[leelaw]

I'm a proponent of replacing the hammer, sear, and disconnector at the same time, as opposed to just one of those pieces. Brownells has matched sets available from Cylinder & Slide (I put one into my last 1911 build and it was great), and available in different trigger pull weights, depending on how light or heavy you want it.

Replacing those parts aren't terribly hard. They're held in by pins, so as long as you have them facing the right way, you'll be fine. Where are you located?

[beauregard]

I'm a proponent of replacing the hammer, sear, and disconnector at the same time, as opposed to just one of those pieces. Brownells has matched sets available from Cylinder & Slide (I put one into my last 1911 build and it was great), and available in different trigger pull weights, depending on how light or heavy you want it.

Replacing those parts aren't terribly hard. They're held in by pins, so as long as you have them facing the right way, you'll be fine. Where are you located?

I'm in Pismo Beach.

So, this is pretty much all I need?

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=12766/pid=5502/sku/Tactical_Match_Kit

[JRJCP]

Before you install new 1911 hammer & sear. You must check the properly of the hammer hooks & sear angle with the microscope. Properly mated sear-hammer.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=10308/GunTechdetail/Building_A_1911___Part_V

[MA2]

Commander hammer is rounded, more than likely it will be in contact with the gi grip safety.

A beaver/duck tail grip safety would need to be installed, or grind down the part that comes in contact

[pTa]

also, your grip safety might need it's beavertail re-contoured
some commander hammers will make contact with the std grip safety

[Synergy]

It will take some fitting. If you tackle the project. Make sure you have this:

[M. D. Van Norman]

[B Strong]

I want to replace the regular hammer on my stainless Springfield Armory Mil Spec with a commander style hammer but I'm guessing this is a lot tougher than it seems. Has anyone here done this and if so can you tell me a little about what I'm getting myself into and what else besides the hammer will need to, or should be, replaced as well?

Links to parts are appreciated.

Thanks.

Here's the deal.

The other posters have given you good advice, but let me put in my .02

I see more bunged up 1911 platform pistols than any other due to shade tree "gunsmithing."

The aftermarket parts are available everywhere, the various guides have been around for years.

This has led to a bunch of guys "improving" their pieces without a clear understanding of the geometric relationship between the individual parts, and the necessity of having the proper tools and experience to get it right - the first time...

If you are a competent individual, get the Kuhnhausen manual, read it clear through and understand the subject before disassembly of the piece, get all the proper tools up front, and have at it.

If you think it's like putting a new airfilter on your ride, and treat it as such, you're going to end up with a box of parts in a box, walking into a gunsmithy.

My personal recommendation for anyone who hasn't an elemental knowledge of the 1911 platform to begin with is go to a 'Smith in the first place. It will save time, money and frustration.

[Colt]

I have used the Cylinder & Slide drop in trigger pull kits a couple times, and they did drop in with no problems (on Colts, not SPringers). I say this because there is a likelihood that "drop in" parts don't always do so.

Nevertheless, using the whole kit is probably wiser than just changing out the hammer unless you know about hammer/sear engagement, etc.

Also, you may want to buy a hammer strut pin and maybe a hammer strut as well - just in case.

[spursnguns]

Send it to a smith....

The model 1911 is not a pistol that you can just swap out parts. Every piece of the platform serves several functions and must be fitted properly. If parts are not fitted correctly...best case: your gun won't work; worst case: it will function unsafely (can you say full auto). Luck will eventually run out for those that claim otherwise.

[TMC]

B Strong is right. I've built many 1911's and when it comes to fire controls there are lots of variables. The hammer, sear, disconnector and thumb safety all work very closley together and changing one means checking the fit of all the other. I've done guns with frame where the pin location were just slightly off spec, the fire contols installed but would not move. All these little tolerance stack up and some times all in the same direction and bind up everything.

If you insist on doing it yourself get a C&S or similar kit just make sure the thumb safety works correctly. If it will not move up fully because its hitting the sear you'll be ok, you can file it until it works correctly. If slides right up and you can pull the trigger rearward just a little you'll need to fit a new thumb safety also.

[beauregard]

I though it was going to be a clusterf**k. Oh well, I'll get used to the GI hammer.

[spursnguns]

I though it was going to be a clusterf**k. Oh well, I'll get used to the GI hammer.

[kahai808]

Here is good video of stripping a 1911

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_z9UUo2Ic8