pistol cleaning solvents?

[zorkieo]

i have been using hopp's for the longest time, and after using some gun scrubber the other day, i realized that better products exsist. something i really would like to figure out is a barrel solvent. i heard about some foams and such. what works well with 1911's and other pistols. (i mostly use 1911's) what do you recomend. i am tired of using hopps then patches, hopps then patches, hopps then patches over and over again.

[HeHateMe]

I've recently started using Mpro7. It does a better and quicker job than Hoppes.

[ghideon]

I use Breakfree CLP for most of my general cleaning needs.

[pklin1297]

I spray the gun, and the bore down with Simple Green first, set the barrel aside, rinse rest of gun with hot water, wipe dry then wipe down with Breakfree CLP. I then get rid of the Simple Green inside the bore, then clean the inside of the bore with Butch's Bore Shine with brush and patches. This routine is what I use for my 1911.

[MIKEUSMC2005]

Others

Sweet's 7.62 solvent works great on the barrel.
Birchwood Casey, Gun Scrubber works great for the rest of the weapon.

And of course Break Free CLP, can't go wrong with that. I've used that for 20 years in the Marine Corps.

[xrMike]

Hey zork, are you shooting lead or jacketed bullets?

[Kruzr]

MPro 7 is the best general cleaning solvent I've come across because it doesn't smell and won't hurt your skin like a petroleum based solvent. CLP does not clean a bore very well but it's a good lubricant and good stuff to wipe the gun down with.

Try this experiment.......clean your bore as you normally do with CLP. Then when you're done, run a very wet patch with Hoppes or MPro7 into the bore. Let it sit 5 minutes. Brush the bore with a bronze bore brush and then run a patch through it. Look at the color of the patch and make up your own mind on how well the CLP cleans.

[mark3lb]

I use Breakfree CLP on all my handguns and rifles. Works great. That Hopps stuff is just too strong of a smell for me.
I'll try the above challenge. If CLP isn't getting my rifles and guns clean enough, then I'll find another cleaner, then use CLP. My big thing is preventing rust.

[T-Bear]

I've been cleaning firearms for the past 4 years using Ed's cleaner. This is the best stuff cleaning your firearms and it's the cheapest. here is the info:
CONTENTS: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner

1 part Dexron ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.

1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1

1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits

CAS #64741-49-9, or substitute "Stoddard Solvent", CAS #8052-41-3, or equivalent.

1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.

(Optional 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, or OK to substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store)

MIXING INSTRUCTIONS:

Mix outdoors, in good ventilation. Use a clean 1 gallon metal, chemical-resistant, heavy gage PET or PVC plastic container. NFPA approved plastic gasoline storage containers are OK. Do NOT use HDPE, which is permeable, because the acetone will slowly evaporate. Acetone in ER will attack HDPE over time, causing the container to collapse, making a heck of a mess!

Add the ATF first. Use the empty container to measure the otherainer to measure the other components, so that it is thoroughly rinsed. If you incorporate the lanolin into the mixture, melt this carefully in a double boiler, taking precautions against fire. Pour the melted lanolin it into a larger container, rinsing the lanolin container with the bore cleaner mix, and stirring until it is all dissolved. I recommend diverting up to 4 ozs. per quart of the 50-50 ATF/kerosene mix to use as "ER-compatible" gun oil. This can be done without impairing the effectiveness of the remaining mix. Label and safety warnings follow:



CAUTION: FLAMMABLE MIXTURE -- HARMFUL IF SWALLOWED -- KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN

Contents: petroleum distillates, surfactants, organometallic antioxidants and acetone.

1. Flammable mixture, keep away from heat, sparks or flame.

2. FIRST AID, If swallowed DO NOT induce vomiting, call physician immediately. In case of eye contact immediately flush thoroughly with water and call a physician. For skin contact wash thoroughly.

3. Use with adequate ventilation. Avoid breathing vapors or spray mist. It is a violation of Federal law to use this product in a manner inconsistent with itsonsistent with its labeling. Reports have associated repeated and prolonged occupational overexposure to solvents with permanent brain and nervous system damage. If using in closed armory vaults lacking forced air ventilation wear respiratory protection meeting NIOSH TC23C or equivalent. Keep container tightly closed when not in use.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE:

1. Open the firearm action and ensure the bore is clear. Cleaning is most effective when done while the barrel is still warm from firing. Saturate a cotton patch with bore cleaner, wrap or impale on jag and push it through the bore from breech to muzzle. The patch should be a snug fit. Let the first patch fall off and do not pull it back into the bore.

2. Wet a second patch, and similarly start it into the bore from the breech, this time scrubbing from the throat area forward in 4-5" strokes and gradually advancing until the patch emerges out the muzzle. Waiting approximately 1 minute to let the bore cleaner soak will improve its action.

3. For pitted, heavily carbon-fouled service rifles, leaded revolvers or neglected bores a bronze brush wet with bore cleaner may be used to remove stubborn deposits. This is unnecessary for smooth, target-grade barrels in routine use.

routine use.

4. Use a final wet patch pushed straight through the bore to flush out loosened residue dissolved by Ed's Red. Let the patch fall off the jag without pulling it back into the bore. If you are finished firing, leaving the bore wet will protect it from rust for 1 year under average atmospheric conditions.

5. If lanolin is incorporated into the mixture, it will protect the firearm from rust for up to two years, even in a humid environment. (For longer storage use Lee Liquid Alox or Cosmolene). "ER" will readily remove hardened Alox or Cosmolene.

6. Wipe spilled Ed's Red from exterior surfaces before storing the gun. While Ed's Red is harmless to blue and nickel finishes, the acetone it contains is harmful to most wood finishes.

7. Before firing again, push two dry patches through the bore and dry the chamber, using a patch wrapped around a suitably sized brush or jag. First shot point of impact usually will not be disturbed by Ed's Red if the bore is cleaned as described.

8. I have determined to my satisfaction that when Ed's Red is used exclusively and thoroughly, that hot water cleaning is unnecessary after use of Pyrodex or military chlorate primers. However, if bores are not wiped between shots and shots and areand shots and are heavily caked from black powder fouling, hot water cleaning is recommended first to break up heavy fouling deposits. Water cleaning should be followed by a flush with Ed's Red to prevent after-rusting which could result from residual moisture. It is ALWAYS good practice to clean TWICE, TWO DAYS APART whenever using chlorate primed ammunition, just to make sure you get all the corrosive residue out.

This "Recipe" has been placed in the public domain, and may be freely distributed provided that it is done so in its entirely with all current revisions, instructions and safety warnings included herein, and that proper attribution is given to the author.

[MIKEUSMC2005]

What

I'll stick to my stuff, CLP, etc.

Too much hard work, mixing and storing all that stuff.

[Jeffrock]

I mainly use Mpro-7 to clean, CLP and/or Tw25b to lube, and a foaming barrel cleaner.

[cho034442]

[Paradiddle]

I've always like the smell of Hoppes...

[aplinker]

MPro-7 is awesome. It barely smells and does a fantastic job of cleaning vs. Hoppes or anything else I've tried. I would highly recommend giving it a shot.

For lube I've been using Militec-1. I've been extremely impressed with the results.

[cseabass]

the new smith and wesson foaming lube/cleaner seems to do a killer job if you let it sit for a few minutes... we got some at the shop in trial sizes and DAMN the stuff works awesome. the lube seems to evaporate a little faster than other stuff such as clp... but the cleaner ROCKS! it also, seems to do a better job of keeping a well lubed gun clean while shooting.

used to be a clp only guy... now i hate to say it, i like the SW stuff.