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good matinance guide for 1911?

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  • zorkieo
    Member
    • Mar 2007
    • 244

    good matinance guide for 1911?

    i have a DW PM7 and it say's "oil all moving parts." does anyone have a nice link to a sight that shows all those moving parts? they showed my some things at the gunshop, but after reading the manual, i realize there is much more to it.
    thanks
    I carry a custom stainless GAU-8
  • #2
    Black Majik
    Calguns Addict
    • Oct 2005
    • 9677

    Originally posted by zorkieo
    i have a DW PM7 and it say's "oil all moving parts." does anyone have a nice link to a sight that shows all those moving parts? they showed my some things at the gunshop, but after reading the manual, i realize there is much more to it.
    thanks
    I don't have a link to a guide on where to oil a 1911. But I lube:

    * Frame rails
    * Slide rails
    * Barrel Link
    * light lube on barrel and bushing
    * light lube on inside of slide where barrel makes contact.
    * drop on disconnector

    Comment

    • #3
      Guns R Tools
      Senior Member
      • Oct 2005
      • 1782

      Check put this site.

      'Cuz big holes are easier to see.

      You can correct my spelling and grammar error anytime.
      I welcome it. How else would I learn.

      Comment

      • #4
        leelaw
        Junior Member
        CGN Contributor - Lifetime
        • Oct 2005
        • 10445

        The Kimber manual has specific lubricating instructions. http://www.kimberamerica.com/downloa...Fullsize45.pdf

        Comment

        • #5
          Kruzr
          In Memoriam
          • Oct 2005
          • 1751

          Originally posted by leelaw
          The Kimber manual has specific lubricating instructions. http://www.kimberamerica.com/downloa...Fullsize45.pdf
          The only problem with the instructions in the Kimber manual is they don't define drop size and many people tend to underlube their guns being afraid of too much oil. Be generous with the lube in a new gun.

          If metal contacts metal, it should be "slick." (Never put oil on the ramp, in the chamber or in the bore.)

          Comment

          • #6
            XDshooter
            Senior Member
            • Apr 2007
            • 902

            Originally posted by Kruzr
            The only problem with the instructions in the Kimber manual is they don't define drop size and many people tend to underlube their guns being afraid of too much oil. Be generous with the lube in a new gun.

            If metal contacts metal, it should be "slick." (Never put oil on the ramp, in the chamber or in the bore.)

            All the places I read say to put a light coat in the barrel.
            Originally posted by E Pluribus Unum
            I was on a ride-along, and the officer i was with saw a parked car with occupants. He was going up to ask them to move their car and as soon as he gets to the window the passenger says "I have meth under my seat."

            I've never understood the self-confessors....

            Comment

            • #7
              SnWnMe
              Calguns Addict
              • Feb 2007
              • 6897

              Originally posted by Black Majik
              I don't have a link to a guide on where to oil a 1911. But I lube:

              * Frame rails
              * Slide rails
              * Barrel Link
              * light lube on barrel and bushing
              * light lube on inside of slide where barrel makes contact.
              * drop on disconnector
              Add a lightly oiled patch through the barrel and that's all there is to it for me.
              Frank Da Tank

              Comment

              • #8
                donger
                Senior Member
                • Oct 2005
                • 1560

                Originally posted by XDshooter
                All the places I read say to put a light coat in the barrel.

                If you're going to put the pistol away for an extended period of time I would put a light coating of oil down the barrel with a patch. Otherwise I don't think it's necessary.
                Certified Ragaholic

                Comment

                • #9
                  Kruzr
                  In Memoriam
                  • Oct 2005
                  • 1751

                  Originally posted by XDshooter
                  All the places I read say to put a light coat in the barrel.
                  You should rub a film of oil where the barrel engages the bushing, on the barrel hood and a small drop in each upper lug cut in the slide. Also spread a film on the lower lugs and a small drop for the link pin. Those are all metal to metal contact points.

                  But, never put oil on the ramp, in the bore, or in the chamber. Oil attracts dirt and an oily bore can become an obstructed bore.

                  If you're going to put the pistol away for an extended period of time I would put a light coating of oil down the barrel with a patch. Otherwise I don't think it's necessary.
                  That's the only time to oil a bore........and you should run a patch or boresnake through it when you take it out and get ready to shoot it.
                  Last edited by Kruzr; 06-08-2007, 6:30 PM.

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    Coastey
                    Member
                    • Oct 2005
                    • 343

                    For a maintenance guide, I've always liked Bill Wilson's 1911 Auto Maintenance Manual from Wilson Combat. Lots of pics and good hints for newbies.

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      randy
                      In Memoriam
                      • Nov 2006
                      • 4642

                      Grease is your friend on your pistols. Mobil 1 or Slide Glide from Brian Enos is much supperior than oil on the slide and frame fit. It stays put doesn't dry up if you store your gun, doesn't shower you with mist after the first shot after you lube it, lasts much longer and your gun will run better for it. A very small drop of oil on trigger parts is still required but too much oil and you'll be stripping it down sooner because the hammer can start to follow. from all the crude. Light grease on the barrel lugs and link pin and slide stop.
                      I move slow but I make up for it by shooting poorly.

                      When I hit the lotto I'm only shooting factory.

                      Comment

                      • #12
                        FNC80
                        Junior Member
                        • Oct 2005
                        • 99

                        Jerry Kuhnhausen's 2 volume set is a good shop manual for the 1911. It'll cover maintenance and more.

                        As for lube, this is my format:

                        1. Remove the magazine and visually/digitally inspect the chamber to make sure it's clear.
                        2. Slide forward, hammer back.
                        3. Put 2-3 drops of lubricating gun oil down the gap formed below the firing pin stop and forward of the hammer.
                        4. Slide back, lock.
                        5. Put 2-3 drops along the top of the exposed barrel.
                        6. Put 1-2 drops of oil along the guide rails exposed at the rear of the slide.
                        7. Manually cycle the weapon. A well fitted bushing will distribute the oil evenly along the barrel.


                        Colt .45 Automatic : A Shop Manual
                        By Jerry Kuhnhausen

                        Book Description: This book is the definitive gunsmithing reference for the Model 1911 and 1911A1 auto-loading pistols designed by John Browning. Kuhnhausen is the one the pros read. However, it has utility for those who do not fall into that category, but have an interest in that family of handguns.
                        The skilled gunsmith will find everything he needs to know about reparing, refurbishing, and customizing the 1911, including a section on accuracy and another on specialized tools.

                        The enthusiast will find good information about what modifications to the 1911 will be worth his while - be his interest in defense or competition.


                        The U.S. M1911/M1911A1 Pistols Volume 2
                        By Jerry Kuhnhausen

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