KIMBER TLE/RL 2 UPGRADES..

[Xtreme1911]

Hey everyone Im looking to do a few upgrades on my Kimber TLE/RL 2. Im looking to get a trigger kit, barrel and bushing, Springs and slide release. Im looking to get a 3 1/2lb trigger pull and I want everything to match and look nice on the gun. I was looking into getting wilson combat parts or cylinder and slide or both. If anyone has some advice I would appreciate it. Thank you

[NiteQwill]

If you want quality, non-MIM parts, go with C&S. I have a C&S trigger kit (in white) in all my 1911s. Easy to fit if you go slow.

Actually, most of my parts are C&S.

Trigger: 10-8, C&S, etc.
Bushing: Oversized EGW
Barrel: Kart ez-fit or whatever you can afford. There's tons of barrel choices out there.
Springs: Wolf Gun Springs
Slide release: I like 10-8, C&S, Wilson, Ed Brown. Whatever, it's a personal preference.

Also, you might as well replace the hammer strut if you're messing with the trigger, sear, disconnector, hammer, etc. An oversized C&S hammer strut is a very nice, precise addition.

[1911Luvr]

I usually recommend having a good gunsmith do the trigger work for you unless you have a lot of tool experience and don't mind a little trial and error. A completely smooth trigger pull with no creep requires a perfectly fit trigger, well mated and polished sear, disconnector, hammer, and pins. You'll probably want to change the mainspring as well if you are looking for a nice light pull as well. You can probably get the parts and clean it up enough to be happy with, but if you truly want a to-die-for trigger job you will want a good smith that does this on a regular basis to do the job.

[Xtreme1911]

Thanks for your help..

[CrippledPidgeon]

First of all, why do you want to change the barrel or bushing? Unless you're having problems with lockup, you shouldn't have a reason for replacing them. Even if you want to go from a stainless barrel to one that's black, that's a finishing process that can be done to your existing barrel.

As for replacing and lightening the trigger, that's definitely gunsmith work. The danger is that once you start swapping parts, the gun might not function properly or safely. The biggest danger is that after you've pulled the trigger it doesn't stop shooting until the magazine's empty.

Even something like the slide lock, which would seem to be a drop-in part, needs to be fitted to the gun for maximum longevity and reliability.

Unless you feel like taking the time and effort to learn M1911 gunsmithing, I'd recommend sending your gun to a competent gunsmith to do the work.

[NiteQwill]

First of all, why do you want to change the barrel or bushing? Unless you're having problems with lockup, you shouldn't have a reason for replacing them. Even if you want to go from a stainless barrel to one that's black, that's a finishing process that can be done to your existing barrel.

As for replacing and lightening the trigger, that's definitely gunsmith work. The danger is that once you start swapping parts, the gun might not function properly or safely. The biggest danger is that after you've pulled the trigger it doesn't stop shooting until the magazine's empty.

Even something like the slide lock, which would seem to be a drop-in part, needs to be fitted to the gun for maximum longevity and reliability.

Unless you feel like taking the time and effort to learn M1911 gunsmithing, I'd recommend sending your gun to a competent gunsmith to do the work.

Barrel + Bushing = better accuracy

Nonsense, anyone with a little patience and time can fit a trigger kit (like those from C&S) or slide release. Patience and time. It's not rocket science.

[Xtreme1911]

btt