Any NorCal Glock Armorers?

[gloxter]

I need my G19's extractor replaced and probably will get a new guide-rod spring assembly as well. Does anyone know of a certified armorer, or at least a good Glock guy in the Sacto area? Many thanks!

[bu-bye]

Its very easy dude. Not need for an armorer. There is a welth of info over at Glocktalk and many many websites that tell you how to do that.

PS
Your GR spring should last a very long time. You should not have to replace it but a replacement is cheap if you feel you need it.

[leego]

Check out topglock.com, this websight has pictures and a complete breakdown on "how to do". It's unbelieveable easy to work on a glock.

[BigMac]

The extractor is super easy to put in. You just want to make sure your ordering the right one. Depending on how old your gun is things have changed a little. You'll probably end up getting one with a loaded chamber indicator. If your gun didn't come with one with a loaded chamber indicator then you will also need to change the bearing.


I see so phew broken I almost forgot about the bearing

[ohsmily]

not sure if it is the case here, but if someone is a LEO, and they need parts replaced or upgraded on their duty Glock, it is wise to have a certified Glock Armorer do it in the event that you are involved in an on(or off)duty shooting. That way, there won't be the unlikely, but possible defense or accusation that the gun was tinkered with which made the shooting more likely or that it was not justified, etc.

Having a Glock Armorer do the work just saves alot of possible liability issues.

Anyway...

[gloxter]

Thanks ohsmily...

Since my CCW is a G19 I wanted to take it to an at least reputable person, preferably a certified armorer for just the reasons you've mentioned.

Specifically, I've been having stovepipes occur (myself and others shooting my pistol) during rapid-fire/double-tap sessions; none of which was "limp-wristed". I'm no expert, but I believe this might have been due to a worn part. What is strange, though, is that I've never encountered such problems when shooting Wolf grey-cased polymer cartridges through it, but have had it occur occasionally using Winchester USA white box Wally-World ammo.

My pistol was purchased at River City Gun Exchange as "Factory Refurbished" (date of mfg 12/'98). It looked to be in mint condition. I've been extremely pleased with my choice and place of purchase and have shot the hell out of it, but only recently have I been having such problems.

I'm taking it to a gunsmith tomorrow, as he has offered to check the guide-rod spring tension for me (21#?). He's backlogged with work and won't be able to really get into it until after the first of the year.

Any help would be appreciated, as I've surfed with little success. Lots of guys would "take a look at 'er", but I'm asking the forum for some guidance. Thanks for reading my drivel.

-gloxter

[BigAL]

Since my CCW is a G19 I wanted to take it to an at least reputable person, preferably a certified armorer for just the reasons you've mentioned.

Specifically, I've been having stovepipes occur (myself and others shooting my pistol) during rapid-fire/double-tap sessions; none of which was "limp-wristed". I'm no expert, but I believe this might have been due to a worn part. What is strange, though, is that I've never encountered such problems when shooting Wolf grey-cased polymer cartridges through it, but have had it occur occasionally using Winchester USA white box Wally-World ammo.

My pistol was purchased at River City Gun Exchange as "Factory Refurbished" (date of mfg 12/'98). It looked to be in mint condition. I've been extremely pleased with my choice and place of purchase and have shot the hell out of it, but only recently have I been having such problems.

I'm taking it to a gunsmith tomorrow, as he has offered to check the guide-rod spring tension for me (21#?). He's backlogged with work and won't be able to really get into it until after the first of the year.

Any help would be appreciated, as I've surfed with little success. Lots of guys would "take a look at 'er", but I'm asking the forum for some guidance. Thanks for reading my drivel.

-gloxter

Interesting. I also had some stovepipes through my G19 3rd generation w/ loaded chamber indicator. The stovepipes were always where the spent casing got caught in the horizontal position between the barrel hood and the breech face (not vertically like a real stovepipe). This did not develop until I had 5-6K through the gun and would only happen maybe once out of every 200 rounds. It was an easy malf to clear as retracting the slide a bit allowed the case to fall out and feed the next round. I also noticed ejection became erratic, where some cases would barely make it out of the gun and others came out with force. I replaced the extractor (which looked worn on the tip where it was shiney), extractor spring, bearing, plunger, and ejector and the problem went away. Ejection became more consistent too. I can't be sure but think it was the extractor that did it. I'm guessing it worked well enough to pull the case from the chamber but slipped off the case before it could properly contact the ejector.

I think since this is your CCW gun that's even more of a reason to do it yourself. People have already mentioned how easy it is. And since you rely on this gun it is ultimately up to you to keep it running, not some smith. That's why I like glocks; I can change out all the parts myself and there is no fine hand tuning required by a smith who you shouldn't rely on since it's not his *** that's on the line. I also choose to keep enough spare parts on hand that I don't have to be w/o my carry piece while it's on some smith's desk.

Oh and the stock recoil spring on a G19 is 18 lbs. You can check to see if it's worn out by dry firing it and keeping the trigger held to the rear while retracting the slide enough to recock it and riding it forward until it just contacts the barrel hood. Then let go of the slide with trigger still held back. If the slide snaps the barrel into battery the spring is good. If it is sluggish or even stops short, it's bad. Do all this w/ the gun pointed up.

[gloxter]

Thanks BigAL!!!!!!!!

I'll try the spring "test". I did find a knowledgable and trustworthy (recommended) smith yesterday in Woodbridge/Stockton. I, too, have around 5K rounds through my 19 and the malfunctions were exactly as you'd described encountering with yours. We did notice that my feed ramp looked "worked on", that is, he felt there was wear not caused by ammuniton being chambered. I've shot probably 2K rounds of Wolf through it, but he felt this wasn't the case. He smoothed it out and polished it to a near mirror finish, FREE! He also recommended that I go ahead and replace the guide rod spring since it was such a cheap "repair" anyway. He recommended Wolf brand springs, a company from Pennsylvania, or to just stick with factory. Other than that, he said my extractor and ejector looked fine. I'll start with the g/r spring and see if that doesn't git'er done. I'll probably put 500 through her out in the Mojave after Christmas.

Thank you to all who replied!

[dilligaffrn]

Antioch Armory has 2 GLOCK CERTIFIED ARMORERs

If it is the pistols fault and not the end user messing with it it will be fixed at no cost.

Dill

[DrjonesUSA]

I'm not a certified Armorer, but am very familiar with the Glock and could very easily replace any part on it.

I will help you do it if you still need work done. I'm in the Sac area.

Let me know.

Thanks

[DrjonesUSA]

Your GR spring should last a very long time. You should not have to replace it but a replacement is cheap if you feel you need it.

That is simply not true.

All springs need to be replaced periodically, especially the recoil spring.

Not exactly sure for Glocks, but I know that the recoil spring in a 1911 should be replaced every 3,000 rounds or so.

[DrjonesUSA]

One other thing for you Glock owners:

Be sure to periodically detail strip your slide!

I have a G30 that was not reliable until I did so!