.22 1911

[Hanniballs]

If you could get a stripped 1911 frame

a) what frame would you get?
b) what conversion setup would you get?
c) where would you go for the rest of the parts?

or would it just be cheaper to buy the cheapest 1911 we can get in CA and put the conversion on?

[TMC]

Any 1911 frame will do since the slide to frame fit doesn't matter, Cylinder & Slide fire control parts and trigger and a Tactical Solutions conversion when it comes out in a few months. I shot one at the Rimfire match in Morro Bay, it's as accurate as you can get and will run on any ammo out there.

[leelaw]

Eh, I just bought a Kimber conversion when I bought the Raptor. Works well for me.

[Astig Boy]

Any 1911 frame will do since the slide to frame fit doesn't matter, Cylinder & Slide fire control parts and trigger and a Tactical Solutions conversion when it comes out in a few months. I shot one at the Rimfire match in Morro Bay, it's as accurate as you can get and will run on any ammo out there.

I wish it were that easy but it is not true. Some conversions DO NOT work on certain frames. I know Kimber is one of them...not all conversions will run on them.
And accuracy highly depends on the ammo you shoot out of it. Not all conversions are created equal. They usually work better with certain ammo...as in all 22 conversion, you have to experiment with all kinds of different ammo to see which ones work best and accurately. I say work best also because some just dont cycle properly.

[bear]

I have a Marvel .22 top that will not work on my LB Premier II, but it will on a Kimber, and a RRA. I have a Kimber kit too, it's a decent kit, but not nearly as accurate as a Marvel. It came with a test target of .75 inch at 50 yards.

But the Kimber .22 black top on a stainless frame, it looks just like a SuperMatch.

Since you can't get stripped frames here, for all practical purposes, might as well go with 'Plan B'. What was the plan anyway? Are you going for the absolute cheapest? Buying the pistol assembled is going to be cheaper that part by part. You can't buy just a frame, generally speaking. Might as well just buy one of those Kimber .22s. Although a used, older Kimber, plus a conversion top would possibly be even cheaper, and twice as much fun.

[rawb]

I put my Marvel on a springer gi frame, works great. Damn thing will hold X at 50 yards, wish I could...

Heres a pic...

[TMC]

I wish it were that easy but it is not true. Some conversions DO NOT work on certain frames. I know Kimber is one of them...not all conversions will run on them.
And accuracy highly depends on the ammo you shoot out of it. Not all conversions are created equal. They usually work better with certain ammo...as in all 22 conversion, you have to experiment with all kinds of different ammo to see which ones work best and accurately. I say work best also because some just dont cycle properly.

Ok, you may have a point. What I do know is we shot 6-7 different types of ammo out of conversions on 3 differnt frames, Kimber, Springfield and STI. All ran 100%.

[gobabygo]

I used to have my Marvel conversion on a Springfield Loaded where I replaced the internals. I recently got a super cheap Charles Daly EFS and the Marvel works just fine on that frame, though the back of the slide overhangs the frame by a little bit, and I had to replace a couple more parts (safety just because I wanted to).

[thomye]

i have a kimber on my SA loaded. Works well but be warned that the kimber doesn't have a auto slide lock after last shot feature. Advantage arms does. But i liked the kimber look better so i went with that.

[railroader]

I had the ciener platinum conversion for my kimber for awhile. It was fun, pretty reliable and accurate. I already had a 1911 to put it on which is ok. I just can't see spending the kind of money to build one just to have a dedicated 22 pistol. I sold the conversion and now shoot my buckmark which has similar controls to a 1911, has a good trigger and is as accurate as the conversion. Buckmarks or rugers cost a lot less than building a1911 .22 pistol. Mark

[brassburnz]

If you could get a stripped 1911 frame

a) what frame would you get?
b) what conversion setup would you get?
c) where would you go for the rest of the parts?

or would it just be cheaper to buy the cheapest 1911 we can get in CA and put the conversion on?

I would get a Caspian frame and internal parts from Wilson Combat, Ed Brown, or Kings. Chip McCormick also has good parts at good prices.

Depending upon what you want to do, I would get either a Marvel or Advantage Arms .22 conversion.

If you are shooting bullseye, get the Marvel Unit 1. If you are shooting to practice for action shooting, get the AA because the slide will lock back on an empty magazine, BUT you won't be able to run a mag well with the AA magazines

I'm still testing my AA. I don't think it has the accuracy of the Marvel even though they are very similar. The Marvel has the ability to shoot X-ring accuracy at 50 yards. I'm still working with the AA to see which ammo it likes for both accuracy and reliability. AA says to use high velocity ammor for reliable functioning, however HV ammo usually isn't as accurave at standard velocity ammo.

I'm also workin with the AA conversion for my Glock 17.

Randy
NRA Life Member

[wutzu]

Any 1911 frame will do since the slide to frame fit doesn't matter, Cylinder & Slide fire control parts and trigger and a Tactical Solutions conversion when it comes out in a few months. I shot one at the Rimfire match in Morro Bay, it's as accurate as you can get and will run on any ammo out there.

I worked at that rimfire match! The Tactical Solutions conversion is pretty awesome. Got to try it out on their mini-competition stage.