S&W and *The Lock*

[mnh327]

Are S&W revolvers with the lock defective by design? Should one avoid a gun that has this?

What model would you look for without a lock? I'm interested in .357 either 4" or snub nose.

[JamminJ]

I've got one its a great gun. I don't know what all the lock hub-bub is about.

[tiko]

All my SW got locks, never used nor pay attention to them.

[BigDogatPlay]

The lock is, to S&W purists like me, a heresy. It is an unnecessary evil that detracts from the aesthetics of the gun. There have been reports of locks occasionally failing and causing the gun to lock up. I've never personally seen it happen, but like anything else mechanical, it can happen. This is why I won't use an S&W with an internal lock as a defensive arm. I am just simply not willing, speaking solely for myself, to take that chance.

Aside from that, it's still an S&W and the fundamental design of their DA revolvers is over 100 years old and pretty much can't be improved on.

If you just can't deal with the lock then start shopping for....

Model 19 or 66... both were made in 2.5, 4 and 6 inch barrels in .357 Magnum.

Model 13 or 65... this is the Military & Police model, fixed sights and with a heavy bull barrel chambered in .357 Magnum. These are 4 inch, typically, but once in a while a 3 inch will show up.

The above guns are on the 'K' or medium frame. They are my personal favorite, but generally they don't tolerate a 100% magnum ammo diet well.

Model 586 / 686 (target sights) or 581 / 681 (fixed sights).

The above are the 'L' frame, a slightly enlarged and improved 'K'. These can be found in barrel lengths of 2.5, 4 and 6 inches. Every once in a while an 8 3/8 inch 586 will turn up, but they are kind of rare. These are excellent all around guns and can sometimes be found at very good prices. They are tough, robust and will last many lifetimes if you take care of them.

Model 27 or 28... same gun, just different finish.

Both of the above are on the 'N' or large frame. The 27 is a Cadillac in terms of finish, the 28 is a Chevy. These two brutes will take as much of any kind of magnum ammo you can stand to put through them. The 27 was made in 3.5, 5, 6 and 8 3/8 inch lengths for much of it's run, and these often command a very hefty price.... particularly the 3.5 and 5 inch models. The 28 is a plain jane working gun intended for LEO use, it's also known as the "Highway Patrolman" and comes 4 or 6 inch, period. I've owned both models, and they are awesome holster guns for all manner of work... just not practical for concealed carry.

Or... you could just buy a Ruger GP 100 and be done with it.

[Rob454]

What is this lock? Is it the safety lock like you find on Taurus handguns?

[bsg]

i would not be willing to buy a S&W that has "the lock."

i am fond of the K frame S&W revolvers.

[Miltiades]

Another lock opponent

Count me as another S&W fan who won't buy a revolver with an internal lock. The device is unnecessary and represents an intrusion of the "nanny state" as well as a reminder of the S&W sellout to the Clinton administration's gun control efforts. If S&W had any sense they would offer their revolvers in two versions for their customers - with and without the lock. I have about 12 S&W revolvers, and all are pre lock.

In answer to your question of which .357 to buy in 2.5 to 4.0 inch length - if your purpose is range and home defense, buy the L frame 686. If it is for carry, buy the K frame versions 65, 66, 13 or 19.

[rromeo]

I don't like the lock because it reminds me of Clinton.

[redcliff]

I've got a couple S&W's with the lock and really have not had any problems with them. However, I only purchased them because they were specialty models that were not available pre-lock.

I much prefer the older pre-lock models if one is available in the configuration desired. I think the older pinned and recessed revolvers were the pinnacle of S&W quality.

[nn3453]

Nothing wrong with the lock on a shooter. I have pre and post locks. The pre locks are more collectible. The post locks are shooters. Don't let anyone tell you that a modern 625, 686, 627, 629 or even the newer, fancier railed S&Ws are inferior guns. Would I use one as my HD gun? No. But I'd wouldn't use a pre lock in today's world either. I use a Tupperware gun for that purpose.

[scarville]

I prefer revolvers for self defense (yeah, I know I should be dead ) so, after hearing rumors about the lock, I just disabled it. Takes less than five minutes.

Make sure you save the part you removed JIC you ever want to transfer it in CA.

[mnh327]

Lock Failure

How do you disable the lock in 5 minutes? I thought it took a gunsmith and it was complicated. The way you did it means this can't happen to you?

http://michaelbane.blogspot.com/2007/08/s-revolver-safety-failure.html

[mnh327]

Thanks for the recommendations BigDog and Miltiades:
I thought I've seen 686 with the lock? Do they come both ways?

[westcoast362]

I don't know how many S&W revolvers I own, but I do know that they are all pre-lock. If I pick one up and it has the lock I just put it down. I just have no interest in the models with the lock. They don't even mount the firing pin on the hammer any more!

[bwiese]

Normal noncollector revolver owners should not worry about the lock.

I'm in no way in support of the lock, but you won't be able to avail yourself of whole piles of fine new S&W revolvers.

1.) Any lock issues were nearly a decade in the past.

2.) Many of us think the new S&W guns are tighter, have better triggers,
less manufacturing variation and are more accurate than some runs of
the older non-lock guns.

3.) The lock can be easily disabled/bypassed.