Educate Me on the 357 Mag

[CapnHawk]

My Colt Python is #1. Jose Feliciano, Ray Charles and Steve Wonder could hit the bullseye every time with that revolver. Other favorites in my stable include the S&W Model 28, Colt New Service, Colt Peacekeeper, Colt Diamondback and Colt Trooper.

For availability and price, go with a Ruger. You won't be sorry.

[Army GI]

I would say go with the Ruger GP 100, especially if you're thinking about shooting heavy loads out of it. But then again I'm biased because I own a blued 6" model

Got mines from budsgunshop.com for $468 shipped.

[Glock21sfsd]

I hear that. In 1982, I bought a Colt Trooper 6" and a Python 6" blue from B&B Guns in North Hollywood.

Later I bought a 1911 Gold Cup and shot that a lot more so I sold the two Colts for slightly less than I paid for them. Neither gun had more than a 200 round count. In box with all the papers.

Kick my arse pleae.

To the OP: I have a S&W 66 with a 2 1/2" barrel. Great gun, real workhorse. I removed the lock recently (I'm experienced at working the lockworks on a SW revolver).
It's a great revolver and my home SD weapon.

Not to familiar with revolvers So this may be a dumb question but when you refer to "lock" what do you mean?

[Rekrab]

Some revolvers have a lock on the hammer that prevents the gun from firing.

[FNH5-7]

Nobody mentioned that these .357 guns are extremely loud. Loudest guns I've ever shot without ear protection. It was a "4 barrel I can only imagine and never wanna try and see how loud the 2.5 inch ones are.

[Kodemonkey]

Nobody mentioned that these .357 guns are extremely loud. Loudest guns I've ever shot without ear protection. It was a "4 barrel I can only imagine and never wanna try and see how loud the 2.5 inch ones are.

[FNH5-7]

I've seen DB ratings that put it as louder than a 12 gauge shotgun.

I don't know what it is about it but it hurts the ears more than a 12 gage shotgun. 12 gage doesn't hurt my ears at all even though it's loud. I think it has something to do with high-pitch and low-pitch sounds. There's a certain "crack" sound to .357s that many people talk about.

[shooting4life]

If you want loud I have a 3 inch 41 mag that makes a bit of noise. I would get a 686, everyone should have a 686. I would hold out for a used one that is pre lock. They show up here everyfew weeks, usually in the 550-600 range. The best thing about buying a used pre lock is you should be able to sell of for exactly what you paid for it of not more.

[Kodemonkey]

12 Gauge 28" barrel 151.50dB
.25 ACP 155.0 dB
.32 LONG 152.4 dB
.32 ACP 153.5 dB
.380 157.7 dB
9mm 159.8 dB
.38 S&W 153.5 dB
.38 Spl 156.3 dB
.357 Magnum 164.3 dB <== yep, it's louder than a 12 guage
.41 Magnum 163.2 dB
.44 Spl 155.9 dB
.45 ACP 157.0 dB
.45 COLT 154.7 dB

http://www.freehearingtest.com/hia_gunfirenoise.shtml

[Bigtwin]

I have a Taurus .357 model 66 stainless, 6" barrel love the hell out of it functions perfect after a couple thousand down the range. It was less costly than many others out there but perfectly reliable. I have read som complaints of quality on some of the Taurus guns(not sure if the 66 was one of them though). Do some research. You will love the wheel gun arena I am sure.

[scarville]

My personal favorite is the S&W 686P. I have one with a 6" bbl and another with a 3" bbl. I may have to get another if La Esposa decides she wants the 686 for goblin control.

The Ruger GP-100 is probably the strongest .357 made today. It's built like a tank. Even when empty, zombies fear it. I read somewhere that Buffalo Bore uses one to develop and test their fullhouse 357 loads and have put over 120K rounds though their test gun. I personally do not like the GP-100 because it just a little bit too big for my hand. It costs about 70% of what a S&W will set you back.

Taurus quality control is, to say the least, variable. I have a Model 66 with a 6" bbl I consider to be almost as good as my S&W. Not quite as good a trigger. Not quite as comfortable to shoot. I take it as back up to training with the 686. I cannot say with any certainly that another Torus would be as good but, if you're on a budget, the Taurus is roughly half the price of the S&W.

If you plan on only buying one revolver, get a Ruger or a S&W. S&W is better, IMO, but I'd never turn down a Ruger.

There are other choices. The SP-101, for example, is popular and those who have one really seem to like it. The Model 27 (?) like the Highway Patrol used to carry is a heckuva good K-Frame.

As noted above, the 357 magnum is one of the loudest handgun cartridges around. The high pressures combined with a supersonic bullet make it an eargenspliten loudenboomer. If that is a concern (it is to me) there are hot 38 spl or mild 357 loads available -- though not easy to find these days -- for self defense. I tend to favor the 158 gr bullet at 1,000 to 1,100 fps. YMMV

[sac-gunslinger]

Ruger, Colt, Smith & Wesson...I cannot think of a revlover they produced that was not serviceable. Choose one that fits your hand. Many have to be private party transfers as they have been out of print for a while.

Taurus? Sold a bunch of them in Utah back in the 90's, never had one come back. Rossi? I have a Model 68 snubbie that matches Smith in quality. YMMV, just take your time examining them before you buy.

I have been way to fussy about differences in brands and models, they all work very well and all can shoot far better than I can make them shoot.

[Poohgyrr]

For what it is worth, my first pick would be a used S&W in good condition. There is absolutely nothing wrong with loading good .38 +P rounds; or the newer .357 rounds designed for short barrels (2" to 4") - the Speer round has a good reputation.

I have been loading Winchester SilverTip .357's for protection for years now. Not the newest design, but they hit the target for me, with less muzzle blast. These are supposed to be about a 3/4 power load - and have worked well at stopping dangerous thugs for the last several decades.

Shorter barrels have more muzzle blast and seem a lot louder. All that loud noise and muzzle flash is distracting. Not really like a bomb going off but it can seem like it. Right in front of our face too, at arms length.

This means we have to train more to hit the target with these guns. They are handier though.

The longer barrels seem to have less muzzle blast and flash, which makes it easier for us to hit the target. But they do weigh more, and that makes it harder for some people to shoot these guns. (My wife and our Mothers simply load their 2" to 3" revolvers with .38's and have done fine at the range. I don't want them shooting at me.)

A good .357/.38 is not a bad thing to have.

A good S&W, Ruger, or Colt will do well.

I shoot better with S&W's. Colt only makes a few revolvers these days, and we no longer have as many gunsmiths who know how to work on them. Rugers work fine. The older, and a few newer, S&W's do not have the "internal lock". (S&W is owned by a company that makes "internal locks" for revolvers. And these new owners forced S&W to install the "internal lock" on most of the revolvers being made now.

There are reports of the lock sometimes locking when it should not. Mainly the Airlite series in magnum calibers. Story is if you shoot or drop the gun just right, the lock parts jiggle and the lock turns on. Then the gun won't shoot until you get your key and unlock it. Bad when you are trying to save your life. Again, this is "rare" and seems to occur mainly in the Airlite series magnums. The heavier Airweights, and regular all steel revolvers "pretty much" don't have this problem - I only know one guy who reports this happened to him. He sold that steel .38 and bought an older used S&W made without the internal lock.

Again, reports of the internal lock problem are rare and it seems to be the Airlite models that suffer from it.

The older used S&W's don't have this lock or it's problem. And in some places (not here in CA) there doesn't seem to be a problem if your gunsmith fixes (removes) this lock that might malfunction.

Rugers don't have this lock problem, but they promoted the ten round magazine ban that we (in CA) still have. Each company has it's own issues.

I still shoot my best with a good S&W and accuracy is king. I started with .38's and trained up to .357's.

My opinion only and worth what you paid for it.

[jptopz]

I have a very sad story to tell you. 17 years ago I wanted to buy my first pistol. I had just helped my dad buy his first a Smith$Wesson model 28 patrolman's 357 6", I believe I paid $200. So not knowing much at the time I was drawn to a flashy stainless Taurus model 66 with a 6" barrel ($300). I had also had my eye on a 8" Colt python($305). The Colt was a dull stainless finish and it was used. So being immature I went with the shinny new Taurus. I still bang my head What an Idiot! The Taurus is only worth $300 and that "used Colt" is worth $1000. I just recently picked up a Colt Trooper, and dumped the Taurus.

This would be my list in descending order of revolvers manufacturers that I would buy.

Colt, Smith&Wesson, Dan&Wesson, Ruger, "many others", Taurus...

[noyo55]

One of the best "buys" out there are S&W 28s, matte finish so they bring a lower price than model 27s or 19s. My favorite is a 28-2, 1966, paid 525, mechanically like new great shooter. If you have a 1000 to spend get a good used Python.