M9 Trigger Job

[mistuhchia]

where's a good place to have it professionally done?

[asme]

http://triggerwork.net/Beretta.html

I've had him do my AR-15 fire control group and am enthused by the results.

[aca72]

http://www.olhasso.com/PS/index.htm

[Sheldon]

A lot of people will drop in a lighter weight mainspring and that will drop the trigger pull down.....cheap too. Spring just runs a couple dollars or so and is easy to swap. Look to the BerettaForum.net site for info. Worked for me well enough.

[9mmepiphany]

http://www.olhasso.com/PS/index.htm

is where i would send mine...i had mine done by Ernest Langdon, but he closed shop

[wu_dot_com]

where's a good place to have it professionally done?

its really easy to DIY.

there are 3 main components replacement involving in a better trigger. replacing the main spring to D spring (brownells), the trigger spring, and elite hammer.

if you want to go even further. get some 2000 gd sand paper, white rouge (AL oxide), jeweler rouge (red rouge or iron oxide) and polish the sear face, the hammer, and the trigger bar. hand polish only, no powertool or you might polish it way too much.

also i recommend the wolff INS reduce power trigger spring. the only thing is that you will most likely need to buy another trigger. this is becuase the current production polymer coated trigger have a different design.

[Call_me_Tom]

its really easy to DIY.

there are 3 main components replacement involving in a better trigger. replacing the main spring to D spring (brownells), the trigger spring, and elite hammer.

if you want to go even further. get some 2000 gd sand paper, white rouge (AL oxide), jeweler rouge (red rouge or iron oxide) and polish the sear face, the hammer, and the trigger bar. hand polish only, no powertool or you might polish it way too much.

also i recommend the wolff INS reduce power trigger spring. the only thing is that you will most likely need to buy another trigger. this is becuase the current production polymer coated trigger have a different design.

I agree with the above. Although I didn't do any polishing, I did install a 16# Wolff Hammer Spring and the reduced power Wolff Trigger Conversion Unit (INS). Those to modifications removed all trigger over travel and greatly reduced the trigger pull. In total I spent $25 and you can feel the difference. I'm much quicker and more accurate now that I'm not fighting the trigger.

[wu_dot_com]

I agree with the above. Although I didn't do any polishing, I did install a 16# Wolff Hammer Spring and the reduced power Wolff Trigger Conversion Unit (INS). Those to modifications removed all trigger over travel and greatly reduced the trigger pull. In total I spent $25 and you can feel the difference. I'm much quicker and more accurate now that I'm not fighting the trigger.

http://www.berettaforum.net/vb/showthread.php?t=13088

scroll down to post 10. it will tell you the area of the sear and hammer where it needs to be polish. i also polish the trigger bar where it connects to the sear and the bar where it connects to the trigger as well as the trigger face that contacts the frame.

the job is very easy. first i started by using 2000 gd sand paper wet (wet sanding is done by dipping the sand paper in water before sanding. during sanding its important to keep the sand paper wet at all time.) i use light stroke single direction back and forth until the coating and minor machine mark disappear. then i spread some white rouge over cotton cloth to polished the sanded surface by moving the polishing area back and forth. keep the pressure light so you dont introduce scratches. i polish it until the surface is semi reflective. then i finish it off with jewelers rouge for the final mirror polish following the same procedure as the white rouge polish.

while you are doing that, you might as well polish the feed ramp as well. one thing is to make sure that you dont over polish the feed ramp transition angle to the chamber. otherwise you will be exposing the shell to more unsupported area.

try this on your spear parts first before you do it on the actual setup. practice this to make sure you get the stroking movement down.

if you want to do any further polishing for the M9, you can start sanding and polishing the rail and frame. just dont do it too much otherwise you will compromise the barrel to slide/ frame alignment.

last i dont think the INS spring stops the over travel. but the adjustable trigger will solve that problem.

I've posted in the Beretta forum where you can get the standard steel trigger that will fit the INS spring conversion as well as the link for getting the adjustable trigger.http://www.berettaforum.net/vb/showthread.php?t=62482

[Call_me_Tom]

http://www.berettaforum.net/vb/showthread.php?t=13088

scroll down to post 10. it will tell you the area of the sear and hammer where it needs to be polish. i also polish the trigger bar where it connects to the sear and the bar where it connects to the trigger as well as the trigger face that contacts the frame.

the job is very easy. first i started by using 2000 gd sand paper wet (wet sanding is done by dipping the sand paper in water before sanding. during sanding its important to keep the sand paper wet at all time.) i use light stroke single direction back and forth until the coating and minor machine mark disappear. then i spread some white rouge over cotton cloth to polished the sanded surface by moving the polishing area back and forth. keep the pressure light so you dont introduce scratches. i polish it until the surface is semi reflective. then i finish it off with jewelers rouge for the final mirror polish following the same procedure as the white rouge polish.

while you are doing that, you might as well polish the feed ramp as well. one thing is to make sure that you dont over polish the feed ramp transition angle to the chamber. otherwise you will be exposing the shell to more unsupported area.

try this on your spear parts first before you do it on the actual setup. practice this to make sure you get the stroking movement down.

if you want to do any further polishing for the M9, you can start sanding and polishing the rail and frame. just dont do it too much otherwise you will compromise the barrel to slide/ frame alignment.

I've not doubt this would improve the weapon but I'm to apprehensive to try it myself. Maybe sometime in the future when my balls drop.

last i dont think the INS spring stops the over travel. but the adjustable trigger will solve that problem.

I've posted in the Beretta forum where you can get the standard steel trigger that will fit the INS spring conversion as well as the link for getting the adjustable trigger.http://www.berettaforum.net/vb/showthread.php?t=62482

When I installed the INS trigger I do so to lighten the trigger pull which it did quite well. The removal of the over travel was unexpected benefit but it does indeed remove it. Lastly, all of my parts are metal, no plastic!

[Call_me_Tom]

And for those that are wondering what the "INS" trigger sping looks like installed attached is a pic.

[wu_dot_com]

I've not doubt this would improve the weapon but I'm to apprehensive to try it myself. Maybe sometime in the future when my balls drop.

When I installed the INS trigger I do so to lighten the trigger pull which it did quite well. The removal of the over travel was unexpected benefit but it does indeed remove it. Lastly, all of my parts are metal, no plastic!

haha, no worry. it took me 6 hours to polish 2 sets of hammer and sear for my 92.

I first did it on my stock hammer and sear just to practice. i polish all the interfaces area so i know how each sanding and polishing strokes should be. then i installed the stock hammer and sear set multiple times just to make sure i know when to stop polishing. once all that is done, I then started to polish the hammer and sear set that will end up in being install for good.

i've took my modify 92 for test fire last weekend. the gun function flawlessly. the grittiness of the trigger pul have since gone away. however, i think the trigger pull can still be lighten further if i polish the firing pin block.

from my research, it seems like there are a larger manufacture variance with the INS springs. since for some, the over travel becomes larger, or in your case, the results is the opposite.

[cyclenut]

Where is the best place to buy these parts for the DIY?

[wu_dot_com]

Where is the best place to buy these parts for the DIY?

most of the replaceable componets like skeleton hammer, D springs, and steel trigger, you can get it at brownells. the INS spring you will have to get it from midway. if you are buying stuff from midway, you might as well pick up some guild rod and grips while you are at. if you really want to drop the big bucks, then get the C&S hammer and sear sets (i have that).

2000 grid sand paper can be bought from autozone or automotive supply store. the jeweler and white rouge can be bought from homedepo or Ace hardware in the hardware section.

if you want to know more, or have question with regards to what should you get, just PM me.