help with function on 1911

[jerryballs]

So what is the small speed bump right infront of the hammer? and when is it supposed to be up and when down? I think my gun is functioning wrong...Its staying up after I rack the gun so that the last little slide before it resets is notchy...Curious if this is right?

See pic below

[Black Majik]

That would be your disconnector.

[jerryballs]

That would be your disconnector.

So its functioning properly then? as the slide returns the disconnector raises?

[Black Majik]

So its functioning properly then? as the slide returns the disconnector raises?

Yes.

See picture below, the slot at the rear of the disconnect rail. The disconnector lifts into that slot, that's where you feel that "notchiness" towards the end of the slide travel.

[jerryballs]

Yes.

See picture below, the slot at the rear of the disconnect rail. The disconnector lifts into that slot, that's where you feel that "notchiness" towards the end of the slide travel.

thanks...I am retarded with 1911's and i have two that I need a gun smith to smooth out...Trigger pull is heavy and grainy...so I was feeling my way through it.

Thanks

[Artery]

thanks...I am retarded with 1911's and i have two that I need a gun smith to smooth out...Trigger pull is heavy and grainy...so I was feeling my way through it.

Thanks

Someone will correct me if I'm wrong but that looks like a pre-series 80 (no firing pin safety) so in the world of 1911s it should be relatively easy to detail strip. You might be able to get down into the pins/trigger/hammer and clean out whatever gunk is in there, give everything a light polish, and grease it up and get a much nicer trigger. Once I detail stripped my 1911 (with a firing pin safety) it was easy, I can do it now without looking at the steps. (although its not recommended to do it frequently so you don't wear on the parts) You'll understand how the disconnector works and why it is where it is after detail stripping it.

The only tools you need are a set of punches, or anything small you can hit the pins with easily, thought I think that on a pre series 80 you can use the parts of the gun itself as tools to push out the pins -one of the bits of genius of the gun. Oh, and you'll need a screwdriver or hex to take off the grip screws.

[nagorb]

Good videos on how to detail strip and re-assemble. It really isn't hard it just takes time to figure it out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4P4XJTKzKEU&feature=fvw

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EOzZJ1LfmEs

[B Strong]

So its functioning properly then? as the slide returns the disconnector raises?

If your 1911 doesn't go full-auto when you squeeze the trigger, the disconnector is doing it's job.

[Kruzr]

If you detail strip the gun, you will see how the disconnector works.

When the slide in is battery, the notch in the slide allows the disconnector to raise. This puts the pad of the disco behind the legs of the sear. The trigger bow hits the pad of the disco which pushes the sear and moves it out of engagement with the hammer hooks. The hammer falls.

If the disconnector is in the down position, like it is if the slide is not in battery, then pulling the trigger pushes back on the disco pad but it is not in contact with the sear legs. The hammer won't fall and the gun won't fire.

The middle leg of the three fingered sear spring is what pushes the disconnector up.

That being said, the picture shows a problem. The disconnector should be in the up position with the slide off. A sticky disconnector is usually due to a build up of crud on the back of the trigger bow which retards the movement of the disco. You should be able to push down on it and it should pop back up. You need to detail strip the gun (or have someone do it for you) and clean the trigger bow and the disconnector pad. Other causes could be a burr on the inner side of the disco pad or a broken or badly adjusted sear spring.

[jerryballs]

If you detail strip the gun, you will see how the disconnector works.

When the slide in is battery, the notch in the slide allows the disconnector to raise. This puts the pad of the disco behind the legs of the sear. The trigger bow hits the pad of the disco which pushes the sear and moves it out of engagement with the hammer hooks. The hammer falls.

If the disconnector is in the down position, like it is if the slide is not in battery, then pulling the trigger pushes back on the disco pad but it is not in contact with the sear legs. The hammer won't fall and the gun won't fire.

The middle leg of the three fingered sear spring is what pushes the disconnector up.

That being said, the picture shows a problem. The disconnector should be in the up position with the slide off. A sticky disconnector is usually due to a build up of crud on the back of the trigger bow which retards the movement of the disco. You should be able to push down on it and it should pop back up. You need to detail strip the gun (or have someone do it for you) and clean the trigger bow and the disconnector pad. Other causes could be a burr on the inner side of the disco pad or a broken or badly adjusted sear spring.

awesome thanks so much!

[dfletcher]

The disconnector is about 1" long, picture a boat oar thin on top with a paddle on the end, positioned vertically as the disconnector in the 1911. When the slide is closed (or removed) the top of the disconnector rides up and the paddle on the bottom engages the back end of the trigger and sear (completes the connection so to speak). When the slide travels back & forth the disconnector (paddle) is down and the back end of the trigger (the trigger bow) can't reach the sear.

If you'd like to test the theory, with the slide removed press down on the top of the disconnector protruding from the receiver & press the trigger - the hammer will not (better not!) fall.

The disconnector is powered by a finger of the leaf spring, not sure which one of the top of my head - I'm inclined to say the middle. These can be adjusted and sharp edges softened, but obviously by someone who is experienced working on 1911s.

[jerryballs]

The disconnector is about 1" long, picture a boat oar thin on top with a paddle on the end, positioned vertically as the disconnector in the 1911. When the slide is closed (or removed) the top of the disconnector rides up and the paddle on the bottom engages the back end of the trigger and sear (completes the connection so to speak). When the slide travels back & forth the disconnector (paddle) is down and the back end of the trigger (the trigger bow) can't reach the sear.

If you'd like to test the theory, with the slide removed press down on the top of the disconnector protruding from the receiver & press the trigger - the hammer will not (better not!) fall.

The disconnector is powered by a finger of the leaf spring, not sure which one of the top of my head - I'm inclined to say the middle. These can be adjusted and sharp edges softened, but obviously by someone who is experienced working on 1911s.

thx!