How should I clean this?

[CharAznable]

dont be afraid to look into alternate methods to clean i.e. an EBC, automotive oils and solvents. Those are cheap and readily available. They are quite often used by alot of old timers

Funny you mention that. I've seen people recommend Mobil 1 and the weight I use (0w40, European Car Formula) is on the list. And I usually have an open quart about...

[rero360]

Me personally, when I get a new gun, handgun or long gun, I disassemble it, I try to do it without looking at the manual, with only looking if I get stuck. Then I just wipe everything down with an old t-shirt followed by putting a nice thin film of Militec on all eternal parts. Reassemble it in the same manner of tearing it apart, only looking at the manual if I get stuck then go out and shoot it.

Once I put a number of rounds through the firearm I'll only lube it at the wear points to save on lube.

The only cleaning equipment I normally use is a old shirt, some q-tips and militec. very rarely will I punch the bore, only if it gets really cruddy or my accuracy starts to decline.

[drunktank]

Hard to type on my phone so in short here's trying to answer your question. I was in same scenario. Take gub apart. All metal parts scrub with tootbrush and solvent. Wipe down with patches and clp till the patches don't get dark. Same with barrel but rotate using the bronze brush/solvent and patch/clp. Add 1 drop to each of the 4 contact points that your frame will ride on. Reassemble. Rack the slide a bit. Tqke apart and llok for any run off. Now u know if amd where u used too much. Your manual does a good job deacribing how much to use and where. If u want me to send pics to better explain let me know. I have a usp but takedown and lubing is similar.

[drunktank]

Also be sure to scrub off the existing "lube". Its from factory and is meant more to protect than lube. A lot of specific info on your gun at hkpro.com but this site is great too.

[yourotherleft]

I use grease on slide rails, light oil on everything else. Also, when cleaning barrel with brush, try not to change stroke direction inside barrel. To be on safe side, I would switch to nylon brush.

[gripdad]

Everybody has their own cleaning ritual. I first spray with gunscrubber, yes I've used it on polymer, blued, stainless and aluminum. Then I clean any residual fouling and the barrel with Hoppes #9 and a the bore with patches and a brass brush alternating between the two until it is clean. It's best to brush from the breach to the muzzle if you can. I then protect the gun with CLP all over except on wood stocks and run a patch of CLP down the bore. I use a small amount of gun grease on the rails of my automatics and any part that is subject to a strong load such as cylinder catches on a revolver. Wipe the gun off so it isn't wet and you're good to go. All my guns that I've purchased since the 80's look and function like new. You can substitute any quality product for the one's I use and not have a problem.

[j1133s]

I picked up my P2000 today (yay me) and as this is my first handgun I (like a n00b) said I needed some cleaning supplies. I don't feel like I got oversold stuff but I'm not 100% sure on how to use what I bought, so I'm hoping to get schooled.

I got this Outers Pistol Cleaning Kit, a can of Gun Scrubber, and a small bottle of Break Free CLP. I've also got a bunch of Q-tips and a toothbrush.

They went over what they thought I should do pretty fast, so I wanted to see if someone can fill in the blanks:

1) Field strip (just to show I know that much...)
2) Spray with Gun Scrubber. What, exactly, am I supposed to spray? Just the barrel? The slide? Everything?
3) Use the brass brush on the barrel
4) Run a patch through the barrel after I put some solvent on it. (They said to use the solvent from the kit - would using CLP be better?) Then run a dry patch through. (Do I need to do anything to the inside of the barrel after that?)
5) Use a Q-tip to put some CLP on the outside of the barrel
6) Use a Q-tip to put some CLP on the rail guides

Should I be using CLP to lube anything else? Or given the supplies that I have on-hand should I be doing it differently?

Man, I feel like such a n00b...

Make sure you leave the inside of your barrel dry, don't leave it oily. So I'd run a few patches thru until they come out dry.

Buy a boresnake, $14, it'll make your cleaning much easier.
I don't pull backwards on the bore brush, so I unscrew on the other end. But now I use boresnake so I don't have this problem any more.

I only use CPL nothing else as I've found it to clean even inside the bore pretty well.
Good luck, the P2000 is a nice pistol, which calibre?

[den888]

I used to use Hoppes # 9 to clean and then RemOil or CLP to lube. Now, I just use CLP to clean and lube in one step. Hoppes has a nasty smell that lingers in the house for hours - ugghh !!!

[CharAznable]

I first spray with gunscrubber, yes I've used it on polymer, blued, stainless and aluminum.

Do you spray everything with it or just the disassembled slide and barrel?

[CharAznable]

Good luck, the P2000 is a nice pistol, which calibre?

Thanks, I like it. It's a 9mm V3.

[gripdad]

I spray Gunscrubber on the barrel, slide and frame to remove old oil, grease and powder fouling before I clean and lubricate everything with fresh oil and grease.

[Evo]

OK here's the ritual for my HK USP compact, my very own 12 step program...

The minute I'm done at the range, while the gun's still warm I run a patch wetted with Slip 2000 EWL and put it in the box.

When I get home or even a day or two later I...
1. Field strip
2. Dry patch and then add Slip 2000 to the same patch and run it again.
3. Stroke the barrel 6 times, breech to muzzle with a slightly wet bronze brush
4. Repeat steps 1 and 2
5. Check for residual carbon (holding up the barrel to a light computer screen like Calguns works great)
6. Stroke about 12 times quickly with a nylon brush
7. Dry patch and repeat step 5.
8. If not clean repeat steps 6 & 7 till it is (usually is at this point)
9. lightly wet a toothbrush with a little Slip 2000 and scrub all the dirty parts, (slide, recoil spring assembly).
10. wipe carbon off the above with a rag, dry wipe the feed ramp and magwell too.
11. reapply a light film of Slip 2000 to the barrel, slide, recoil spring and a small dab of Slip 2000 grease to the slide rails.
12. Reassemble, lock open and run one last wet patch through the barrel, breech to muzzle and put the gun away. Leave the patch cord with a dry patch on it in the box with the gun so you can dry patch the bore immediately before the next time you shoot.

If this is a home defense weapon do not leave the barrel wet as it will affect accuracy and increase chamber pressure.

Slip 2000 EWL is amazing stuff, this sounds complicated but it's just detailed, you can get this whole procedure done in 20 min easy. The EWL will actually penetrate into the steel and prevent moisture and carbon from adhering, if you haven't fired your gun yet doing this first will make all the following cleanings easier. It's also non toxic, biodegradable and doesn't have an odor. I do however recommend using rubber exam gloves because it can cause minor skin irritation.

[tuna quesadilla]

Why not? I use CLP only for my AR and never have had a problem. CLP has been used for years by our boys in service without a hitch.

Why is "grease" better than "oil"

I don't use "grease" in my glocks, steyr, mossberg, benelli, mosin or 1911's...

Anyone else here use "grease" for their guns in place of oil?

The problem with CLP is that it evaporates. Put a layer of CLP on your weapon and it'll be BONE DRY within a matter of days. This isn't an issue for our servicemen because they are so meticulous about cleaning/lubing their weapons, they don't let their weapons sit for days without any maintenance. For the average civilian though, who isn't always able to clean his weapon every day, there are much better choices than something like CLP that will disappear within a few days of application. I've stopped using CLP for exactly that reason.

[rero360]

The problem with CLP is that it evaporates. Put a layer of CLP on your weapon and it'll be BONE DRY within a matter of days. This isn't an issue for our servicemen because they are so meticulous about cleaning/lubing their weapons, they don't let their weapons sit for days without any maintenance. For the average civilian though, who isn't always able to clean his weapon every day, there are much better choices than something like CLP that will disappear within a few days of application. I've stopped using CLP for exactly that reason.

Heres the thing though, for the national guard, those weapons might not be touched for two, three or more months at a time. Also when turning into the armory we'd also make sure the wepons are bone dry. Why? because if you put CLP or any kind of lube on it, it will pull carbon out of the pores of the metal, so you can clean it as good as humanly possible, lube it up and go turn it in and will be rejected because its still dirty.

I did an experiement when I was maling up some time and working with our armorer, I took a rifle from the rack, made sure it was clean to his standards, and lubed it up, the next day it was inspected again, pretty dirty, so I recleaned it and relubed it, I did that for a week and at the end of the week the lube was still pull carbon from nooks and crannies and making the weapon appear dirty.

There really is no need to get a weapon that clean, some people believe its actually harmfull to it.