Bying used handgun.

[Leoshik]

Hey CG. I am about to purchase a used Glock 17.

I know Glocks have quite the track record in reliability, but i also know that it would be stupid to just acquire a used one without subjecting it to some scrutiny before firing it for the first time.

Could anyone give me some tips on how to properly inspect this handgun?

I am going to clean it of course. I will take apart the slide and make sure everything "looks" okay. But there might be flaws in it that an untrained eye (like my own) might miss. What are some telltale signs of possible malfunction, like maybe, the condition of the steel, rails, trigger group?

Thanks in advance.

[for2nato]

Look at things like the extractor and rails. And just the general condition of the gun. I personally don't buy anything if it looks like it was never cleaned. If thebasics were never done then there's probably underlying issues

[for2nato]

double post

[stix213]

^^^ what he said. Plus I'd rack the action several times to make sure that works smooth, give it a few dry fires to see if the trigger feels right, make sure the mag locks in just fine, and remove and take a look down the barrel looking for wear and if they bothered to clean the gun after last time.

[Lancear15]

What do I look for when buying a used Glock?
Another GREAT article contributed by [JT].

Buying A Used Glock

Unlike many other firearms, I don't worry too much about buying a used Glock. Heck, I've even bought used parts at various times, from different sources and later pieced together a complete pistol as good as new. Many used Glocks appear to have been shot very little and don't even have holster wear. Even the ones that are known to have been holstered hundreds of times and have sent thousands of rounds downrange are usually none for the worse. I recently bought a used upper from a state police trade-in. It was perfectly functional but had some holster wear on the usual places. So I had it refinished -- for vanity reasons only (Mark Graham at Arizona Response Systems (http://www.arizonaresponsesystems.com) did a fine job of it -- looks better than new). Anything else, I can take care of myself.

Here are some tips when buying a used Glock:

* With the owner's permission, make sure the pistol is unloaded and then field strip the pistol. First, remove the magazine and MAKE SURE the pistol doesn't have a round chambered. Point the unloaded pistol in a safe direction and pull the trigger. Next field strip the pistol. If you don't know how to field strip a Glock pistol, read this: http://www.topglock.com/info/fieldstrip.htm

* Check the frame "dust cover" (the part forward of the trigger guard). Flex it a little up, down, left, right carefully looking for small cracks. There have been some complaints about small cracks on the G29 and G30 models running from the serial number plate to the end of the dust cover (although some of these seem to be misidentified mould marks). Cracks generally don't interfere with functioning, but should be replaced. A replaced slide or frame would not have a matching serial number. This may weigh heavily on whether or not you are willing to purchase this pistol, regardless of price.

* Inspect the frame internal parts (trigger assembly, connector, locking block, etc.). Some early pistols need to be upgraded -- the metal internal components of which typically have a black finish as opposed to the current silver finish. Look under the slide at the bottom of the firing pin lug and firing pin safety; look at the trigger bar inside the frame. If these parts are black in color, the pistol needs an upgrade kit. If the parts are dull or shiny silver, it should be fine. Another way to tell if the pistol was made before the update is that the frame serial number plate will be black as opposed to silver, which is the current configuration. If you buy a pistol that needs upgrading, you can take it to a Glock armorer or send it to the Glock Warranty Department where they will perform all the necessary upgrades at no charge.

See the following links for upgrade info:

http://communities.prodigy.net/sportsrec/gz-gupgrade.html

http://www.geocities.com/helenron.geo/upgrade1.html

http://www.geocities.com/helenron.geo/upgrade2.html

* Inspect the slide. Look for any obvious problems. Guide to parts: http://www.topglock.com/info/partgraphic.htm

* Look at the ejection port of the slide and check for cracks, especially in the area around the serial number (the thinnest part of the ejection port). Check the breech face for cracks, chips or scarring.

* Look at the extractor. Ensure that it is not cracked or have a chip broken off. Same for the ejector.

* Turn the slide over and look at the bottom. There may be two divots opposite each other on the slide rails (especially on the .40 models) -- located about even with the forward edge of the ejection port. This is called "peening" or "finning" (as Glock terms it). The locking block contacts the underside of the slide during recoil and the polymer frame flexes, causing the divoting. While unsettling, this is completely normal and eventually stops. If these peened spots are just shiny -- no problem. If the pistol has been fired a lot then they maybe indented slightly -- again no problem. If they are finned over and have a sharp edge, possibly interfering with movement of the barrel, then a Glock armorer may need to file off the fins with a diamond equaling file. However, I have never heard of a Glock with finning so bad that the slide had to be replaced. Unless it's interfering with the functioning of the pistol, don't worry about it -- Glock considers it SOP.

* Check to make sure that the recoil spring receptacle or "tab" on the front of the slide (the hole that the recoil spring guide goes through when you cycle the slide) is in direct line with the rest of the front of the slide. If it is bent back, then someone probably dropped it nose-first on a hard surface. This can cause malfunctions.

* Inspect the barrel for any anomalies. Check for a "ringed" barrel -- that is where a "squib" load has lodged a bullet in the barrel and then another non-squib bullet is fired behind the obstruction causing a "ring" inside the barrel. Hold the barrel up to the light and check the rifling -- should be a smooth, six-sided helix (eight-sided profile for .45 models) from the chamber all the way to the muzzle, without interruption. If the pistol hasn't been fired much, you may see some Tenifer (the metal treatment used by Glock) that has become brittled inside the barrel. This looks like pitting, but will completely disappear in time and is nothing to worry about. Glock considers this normal when it occurs.

* Also check the recoil spring. Ensure that the pistol is unloaded. Pull the trigger and hold it back. Point the muzzle at the ceiling, pull the slide to the rear and slowly ride it forward. The spring should close the slide completely. If it hangs up out of battery, the spring may need to be replaced. Also look at the rear of the recoil spring guide for cracks or chips.

Personally, if the slide or frame is cracked, I'd pass on a pistol unless I can get a steal. Then you can have Glock replace the cracked part -- usually for nothing if there is no evidence of abuse. Everything else is easy and cheap to fix, but gives you room to negotiate the price with the seller. I haven't seen too many used Glocks that I wouldn't make some kind of offer for -- because they go on and on and on ... [pink bunny, stage left].

[Futurecollector]

hmmm, Ive bought 3 used Glocks in the last year, I looked at it, racked the slide, field striped it to make sure it was all there etc, then I fired it, no more no less....

remember it is a Glock...

[510shooter510]

In my experience with Glocks, its all good. I wouldn't hesitate on a deal.

[ironcross]

Depending on how old it. I was reading that you could send it into Glock for an upgrade. Depending on the frame (Say a gen 2) you would get a new frame (Gen 3 or RTF not sure) and they would go over all your internals and end up replacing most if not all the parts. Might get your slide refinished...
Basically you get a new gun for the used price. Some have also said if they charge anything, its about 70-100 bucks plus shipping to Glock.

This is what I have read on other forums.

[Leoshik]

Lots of GREAT information thank you. I know the reliability of Glocks is pretty solid, and i have great hopes for the one I'm getting. Thanks for the little tid-bits of information like the dust cover cracks and steel condition descriptions - exactly what i was looking for.

Another thing - the guy i'm buying the G17 from said he sent it back for the factory since it was an E class (faulty rear rails on the frame) and I believe it got a new frame. Just found that out.

I thank everyone for the input.

Lancear15 thanks for the useful links and info.

[Leoshik]

Depending on how old it. I was reading that you could send it into Glock for an upgrade. Depending on the frame (Say a gen 2) you would get a new frame (Gen 3 or RTF not sure) and they would go over all your internals and end up replacing most if not all the parts. Might get your slide refinished...
Basically you get a new gun for the used price. Some have also said if they charge anything, its about 70-100 bucks plus shipping to Glock.

This is what I have read on other forums.

Yeah that's what I've been hearing too. I hope the slide got inspected while it was in factory, but might not have since it was only sent in for the E class recall.

If $70-100 is accurate then it's definitely worth investing into. Added to the gun's cost it's still cheaper then the cheapest new Glock out there (even LE priced) ... well, in Kalifornia at least.

[Jonathan Doe]

Usually, most used guns I bought were in decent shape. If not, I will buy it cheap and do works myself to bring it back to good working condition. Actually, I don't care about condition if the price is right. Having been to many armorer schools and gunsmithing schools help a lot.

[Lancear15]

Lancear15 thanks for the useful links and info.

No prob, all I did was copy and paste from a different thread, hehe.

[wildog8812]

Depending on how old it. I was reading that you could send it into Glock for an upgrade. Depending on the frame (Say a gen 2) you would get a new frame (Gen 3 or RTF not sure) and they would go over all your internals and end up replacing most if not all the parts. Might get your slide refinished...
Basically you get a new gun for the used price. Some have also said if they charge anything, its about 70-100 bucks plus shipping to Glock.

This is what I have read on other forums.

This is a good option, also if you don't want to spend that much some gun shops will completely take apart your gun and clean it. I think my gun shop charges 20 dollars. However when I bought a used Beretta 96fs I took it down to the fame my self and cleaned it. It is fairly easy to do and there are a lot of good resources out there to help you do so, but you tube is not what I would suggest.