Ruger LCRx

[Elgatodeacero]

I really like the Ruger LCR and LCRx revolvers but I do not believe they make good ?first guns? or ?first revolvers?.

As another poster mentioned, get a Smith and Wesson 686 or a Ruger GP100 with a 4 inch barrel as a first revolver. Much easier to shoot, less recoil, better grip.

For me, the LCRx is a gun for backpacking, hiking, tackle box, etc. - not for fun range time.

[SVGL5.56]

The 38 Special was $739.00 and the .357 Magnum was $859.00. I ordered both at the same time knowing I would have to wait the 30 days between them.

The 38 arrived first about a month after ordering (last October) and it took awhile for the .357 arriving in early January this year.

Prices have gone up dramatically on almost all firearms in recent months.

Consistent accuracy on both of the .22s was challenging because of the strong springs as previously mentioned in posts above. It takes some practice to overcome this, but the revolvers are inherently accurate. I?ve gotten some decent groups from both.

I did experiment with the main spring on .22. I measured the spring at 12 lbs. using the standard method and started looking for a 10 lb. spring. Nobody had one but I did find a 9 lb. spring (from Wolfe I think). This was an improvement but was inconsistent in DA. SA was fine since the hammer swings at a slightly larger arc than DA. I had a few failures to fire in DA mode.

I tested this in the garage by pulling the bullets on a bunch of .22 LR rounds and firing ?blanks?. So, I put the stock spring back in. I did find out that the 38 Special revolver has a 10 lb. spring in stock form so if I get in the mood to get back into these experiments I can swipe the 10 lb. spring from the 38, put the 9 lb. spring in it and install the 10 lb. spring in the .22.

The 38 and .357 are very accurate. I took the .357 out to the range for the first time the other day and shot this 10 round group at 7 yards (after touching up the rear sight, it was shooting a bit low at first).



Dan

Interesting, i'll keep all this in mind, thanks for the info.

Oh, don't do that. Buy an L frame or N frame Smith for your first. I love my LCRs and LCRx's but they are truck/boat/tackle box guns. A 686 isn't much more and it's a lifetime gun.

Yeah I was looking into the 686 and Ruger GP100 as well but I figured these would be cheap enough to kinda dip my toes into the revolver realm until I get something nicer but boy was I wrong on thinking these were cheap! Still, these things do have a certain charm to them I just can't explain...

Some here have recommended that as a first revolver in that caliber it would be a bit much. When using .357 Magnum ammunition I would totally agree. I would venture a bet that after one full cylinder of magnum rated ammo, you will have settled on using .38 S&W Special from then onward. Small, lightweight firearms in calibers such as the .357 and similar others can be quite fierce and downright nasty. For a first wheel gun in such, a steel medium frame, 3-inch or longer barrel model by one of the larger makers will be much more suitable, and pleasant to shoot. Once you master double-action use, try out one of the smaller revolvers. You will quickly understand.
One factor I have not seen in this thread is that very lightweight revolvers such as the LCR series make excellent weapons for ankle carry. Heavier snubs when continuously carried in ankle holsters over long periods can actually exacerbate knee issues, leading to soreness, arthritis, etc. I learned this from several cops who carried ankle rigs over their careers and ended up needing serious knee work. I also was advised of this by my orthopedic surgeon when I had knee replacement. To me it makes sense. Now my favorite ankle gun is the LCR in 9mm, which my kids have named Snappy. From the ankle holster (Wilderness Products) it rides in, it is very easy to get to when seated in a car while wearing the seatbelt. Being a revolver, it is more forgiving for compressed retention shooting than are some smaller automatics, something that is common when shooting within a vehicle.

Lots of good info here. I figured I would pick up the .357 mag version since I would also be able to shoot .38 special out of it but still have the option for .357 if I really wanted to. Also, when you ankle carry the LCR in the car, do you switch to IWB or another method of carry once you're done driving or just keep it on your ankle all day?

[Gary13]

I had a LCR in .38. Great little revolver with a nice trigger. Sold it. Now considering getting one in 9mm.

[ethinos]

I have the .357 LCR with the smaller Hogue Boot Grip. It definitely tingles when firing full house .357 through it with the smaller plastic grip. It makes those standard Tamer rubber grips seem almost reasonable in comparison. I like to use the LCR IWB since only the little boot grip sticks above my belt with nearly the rest of the revolver being inside my shorts/pants. It's great when my shirt option is on the tighter side of things with no cover garment. It's light and super comfy to carry, too, unlike some of my larger pistols. I've got Speer Gold Dot Short Barrel .38 +P loads in there now and I'm comfortable relying on them.

[splithoof]

Also, when you ankle carry the LCR in the car, do you switch to IWB or another method of carry once you're done driving or just keep it on your ankle all day?

It stays in the ankle rig, or in a pocket holster if away from the car for longer than a rest break from driving. For that particular model a speed strip carries the extra rounds, but realistically five shots is all you get. Strips are a nice idea, but in practice they are slow. Moon clips for the 9mm are fragile, and not as easily carried, but can be with the right kind of small pouch.