What tool do I need !!SOLVED!!

[Featureless]

To unscrew this S&W 43C barrel liner? It's an 8 point torx-like socket measuring .375

43C.jpg

43C-1.jpg

[ar15barrels]

I don't know that anyone sells a tool for that.
Probably have to make one.

What's the reason to remove the barrel?

['ol shooter]

Sounds foolish.

[Preston-CLB]

Sounds foolish.

I agree. This is not an operation to be attempted by anyone except for a qualified gunsmith with the correct tools.

If something is truly wrong with the barrel liner, I'd consider contacting S&W directly.
-P

[Featureless]

I don't know that anyone sells a tool for that.
Probably have to make one.

What's the reason to remove the barrel?

I sent the revolver back to S&W for warranty repairs because it locks up after 2-3 cylinders, indicating to me the barrel/cylinder gap is too narrow.

10 weeks later they returned it; it still locks up after 2-3 cylinders.

The barrel/cylinder gap on one side is .008 and .009 on the other in all cylinder positions indicating to me the crane is bent/off by .001

My original intent was to open the gap by .001 to see if that will solve the problem. However after additional consideration and reading the feedback here, I decided it needs to go back to S&W - AGAIN.

So that's what I'll do. Thanks for the input.

[Ruber]

Mine fluctuates between .008 and .009 too. You might try some different ammo or have Smith check the timing too.

I had leading with high velocity lead bullets like Automatch. Mine seemed like a timing issue and I don't like shipping guns. I wound up getting a new extractor and fitting it. It helped, but I think the next step on mine is to put a slight bevel on the forcing cone (or lack there of).

These things are so expensive, they should run perfect out of the box. But I've tried LCR's and had even worse luck.

Good luck!

[Featureless]

I don't think I have any choice but to send it back again. Even if I had the correct tool, the threads between the liner and barrel are most likely held in place with some kind of Loctite or epoxy.

I don't know what to make of the .001 variance. Either it's within tolerances or they're just sloppy.

I'll send it back as many times as it takes for S&W to correct the problem.

[IVC]

Send them an e-mail and ask them to give you a new gun if they can't fix it. I believe 43C is still on the roster, so it's not a problem.

[sigfan91]

Oh interesting, I had a chance to try this one last friday night. It also had an interesting issue. The ejector always gets stuck after shooting a cylinder. I had to use a mallet to tap the ejector rod to eject the spent casing. The ejector feels just fine without any rounds in the chamber. There was no hang-up, no gritty feel, nothing out of the ordinary. But it always gets stuck after shooting a cylinder.

[IVC]

If the ejector works fine on its own, the issue is almost certainly with the brass. It's either too soft and over-expanding (depending on what brand it is), and/or there are burrs on the inside edges of the charging holes that will dig into brass as it expands.

One of my 929s would cut my finger when I was practicing reloads in dry fire and I couldn't figure it out. My middle finger would have a cut and bleed, yet I didn't feel anything unusual. Upon inspection, the forcing cone had a burr in the shape of very small ledge that would act as a razor and cut me on incidental contact (these were competition reloads, aggressive and fast moving). Check out edges and machining marks...

[eaglemike]

If the ejector works fine on its own, the issue is almost certainly with the brass. It's either too soft and over-expanding (depending on what brand it is), and/or there are burrs on the inside edges of the charging holes that will dig into brass as it expands.

One of my 929s would cut my finger when I was practicing reloads in dry fire and I couldn't figure it out. My middle finger would have a cut and bleed, yet I didn't feel anything unusual. Upon inspection, the forcing cone had a burr in the shape of very small ledge that would act as a razor and cut me on incidental contact (these were competition reloads, aggressive and fast moving). Check out edges and machining marks...

Yup. As far back as the original 6.5" 610's S&W wasn't really finishing the back end of the barrel (at least on some of them). I think I still have one that looks like it was rough saw cut. Forcing cone wasn't much better. Even the "performance center" revolvers have been darn rough most of the time in my experience.

[ar15barrels]

I sent the revolver back to S&W for warranty repairs because it locks up after 2-3 cylinders, indicating to me the barrel/cylinder gap is too narrow.

10 weeks later they returned it; it still locks up after 2-3 cylinders.

The barrel/cylinder gap on one side is .008 and .009 on the other in all cylinder positions indicating to me the crane is bent/off by .001

My original intent was to open the gap by .001 to see if that will solve the problem. However after additional consideration and reading the feedback here, I decided it needs to go back to S&W - AGAIN.

So that's what I'll do. Thanks for the input.

8-9 is actually a pretty big cylinder gap.
Were you checking cylinder gap with headspace gauges in the cylinder or was the cylinder empty?
Because the cylinder is supported at the rear by the gauge in the cylinder and the gap may be less when the headspace gauge is against the recoil shield.

Before you send it off, load the cylinder up full of the ammo you are having problems with and check the gap again.
Let me know what you find.

[Dano3467]

OP.. FYI

Had a similar experience with revolver.

I was scratching my head why this was happening.

When it happened, I would just stop shooting it, & not be able to open. O'd bring it home & clean it.

Seems fine, except it happened again, then the same again, came home cleaned it, was find.

What I didn't notice (just by accident) was the ejector rod had come just a little unscrewed, & jammed into opening (failed to open, & pushing against the rod pocket, keeping it from revolving). Was binding into the pocket of said pin. What ever that is called.

Stupidly I fail to notice this. Might want to may check this.

Your gonna feel dumb, like I did, if this is what it is. But a little blue loctite will make that problem disappear

[Featureless]

8-9 is actually a pretty big cylinder gap.
Were you checking cylinder gap with headspace gauges in the cylinder or was the cylinder empty?
Because the cylinder is supported at the rear by the gauge in the cylinder and the gap may be less when the headspace gauge is against the recoil shield.

Before you send it off, load the cylinder up full of the ammo you are having problems with and check the gap again.
Let me know what you find.

No, just using feeler gauges. With the cylinder full the measurements change from .008 to .006 and from .009 to .008 so it still appears the crane is out of alignment.

I've polished the face of the forcing cone using a Dremel (I know that's a scary word) with some jeweler's rouge on a felt cone tip so we'll see what happens next time I get to the range.

If it doesn't lock up after multiple cylinders fired I'll call it good notwithstanding the gap variances.

Have no problem sending it back to S&W in any case. I think the problem is with an out of spec crane and will request they replace that part.

[Featureless]

OP.. FYI

Had a similar experience with revolver.

I was scratching my head why this was happening.

When it happened, I would just stop shooting it, & not be able to open. O'd bring it home & clean it.

Seems fine, except it happened again, then the same again, came home cleaned it, was find.

What I didn't notice (just by accident) was the ejector rod had come just a little unscrewed, & jammed into opening (failed to open, & pushing against the rod pocket, keeping it from revolving). Was binding into the pocket of said pin. What ever that is called.

Stupidly I fail to notice this. Might want to may check this.

Your gonna feel dumb, like I did, if this is what it is. But a little blue loctite will make that problem disappear

Thank you for that. The ejector rod is tight and locks up perfectly with the pin.