Question for 1911 experts

[tsoso]

[mk2dave]

It could be any of the three. How high is "a bit high" and at what distance?

I'm assuming the comp functions as the barrel bushing as well; it's possible that the new one is holding the business end of your barrel a little higher than your original bushing causing higher impact.

It's also possible that you are reloading to higher pressures and therefore getting higher impacts.

And then maybe it's just you.

I'm no expert. But I haven't noticed a change in the handful of comps I've done. To my knowledge, adding a comp generally doesnt change POI.

More details will help with more accurate answers. If you are 4" above POA at 7 yards with a high quality comp, I'd say its you.

If it's an $8 comp shooting 1/2" higher at 25 yds, it could be anything.

I'd have another good shooter take a whirl and see what they say. That would at least rule you out.

[newbie1234]

BENCH REST,
WITHOUT compensator shoot about 5 rds at your favorite distance.
Then WITH compensator shoot 5 rds at the SAME POA, let see the difference, the answer right there.
(Notes that you are testing the compensator not checking your skill )

[JTROKS]

If it is the Bushing-Comp combo then I’ll second the, “comp functions as the barrel bushing as well; it's possible that the new one is holding the business end of your barrel a little higher”. You replaced a hand fitted barrel bushing with a drop in part? If so Is your accuracy better or worst with the comp?

[walmart_ar15]

no expert here either. but if it is the bushing type of comp, it does nothing for you other than adding weight in front or look "cool" if that is your preference. And as Jtroks said, you just replace a fitted bushing with a drop-in bushing. Typically, a fitted bushing will provide better consistency. A new bushing can also change your POI from your old POA as it now may "fix" your barrel slightly different inside your slide.

[IVC]

Inner circle of the bushing is supposed to be centered in the slide regardless of bushing, so theoretically it shouldn't change the POI, but not all bushings are created equal. If the bushing isn't centered, it's an overall poor barrel fit.

As for WC bushing compensator, it's a gimmick. Years ago I had WC do some work (sights, trigger) on a Kimber 10mm 1911 I had lying around. For fun, I added bushing compensator to the order. The compensator doesn't change anything, at least I couldn't feel a difference. But, it came with a two-piece guide rod that must be unscrewed with a hex wrench, something that I dislike with passion (Springfield does it too). Not only do I need a tool to take the slide off (I can get used to this, my SVIs require a special pin too), but the rod likes to loosen over time and walk itself out a bit. Normally, I'd put some blue Loctite to hold the threads together *except* that this is a part that must remain free if I'm ever to take the slide off.

Just last week I finally found the old bushing (it was in the gun case with the rest of the parts that WC replaced) and put it back on. Oh the joy of just pushing the cap and rotating the bushing when taking the slide off...

[JTROKS]

Inner circle of the bushing is supposed to be centered in the slide regardless of bushing, so theoretically it shouldn't change the POI, but not all bushings are created equal. If the bushing isn't centered, it's an overall poor barrel fit.

As for WC bushing compensator, it's a gimmick. Years ago I had WC do some work (sights, trigger) on a Kimber 10mm 1911 I had lying around. For fun, I added bushing compensator to the order. The compensator doesn't change anything, at least I couldn't feel a difference. But, it came with a two-piece guide rod that must be unscrewed with a hex wrench, something that I dislike with passion (Springfield does it too). Not only do I need a tool to take the slide off (I can get used to this, my SVIs require a special pin too), but the rod likes to loosen over time and walk itself out a bit. Normally, I'd put some blue Loctite to hold the threads together *except* that this is a part that must remain free if I'm ever to take the slide off.

Just last week I finally found the old bushing (it was in the gun case with the rest of the parts that WC replaced) and put it back on. Oh the joy of just pushing the cap and rotating the bushing when taking the slide off...

[IVC]

Normally, you can rotate the bushing one way until the recoil plug can freely pass, then you rotate it the other way and pull it out. With WC bushing compensator, there is no easing cut on the side of the bushing, so no matter which way you rotate it, the plug cannot pass.

I guess I could just rotate the bushing and have the recoil spring push it out, then use the bushing to compress the spring when assembling. Worth a try. Any issues with this method?

[JTROKS]

Normally, you can rotate the bushing one way until the recoil plug can freely pass, then you rotate it the other way and pull it out. With WC bushing compensator, there is no easing cut on the side of the bushing, so no matter which way you rotate it, the plug cannot pass.

I guess I could just rotate the bushing and have the recoil spring push it out, then use the bushing to compress the spring when assembling. Worth a try. Any issues with this method?

What manufacturer slide are you using? It could be the slide cut out not allowing the bushing to rotate.

The only problem I see with compressing the spring with palm (or fingers) is the flight direction of the standard guide if one looses control of it. I’ve shown people how to do it and why, but they can’t keep the rear of the guide rod pinned down against the barrel feet, more often during reassembly.

[IVC]

What manufacturer slide are you using? It could be the slide cut out not allowing the bushing to rotate.

It's Kimber Eclipse with its factory slide. The bushing rotates, just doesn't get out of the way of the plug. There is always a bit of a lip that's over the hole.

But I'll double-check since I haven't played with it all. The guide rod that came from WC wouldn't allow the plug to be pushed in so the bushing was locked in place and only way was to unscrew the rod with a hex key. The combination of "bushing compensator" and "one piece rod" wasn't on the gun ever - the original was one-piece rod with original bushing, then it was replaced with a two-piece rod and compensator.

[JTROKS]

It's Kimber Eclipse with its factory slide. The bushing rotates, just doesn't get out of the way of the plug. There is always a bit of a lip that's over the hole.

But I'll double-check since I haven't played with it all. The guide rod that came from WC wouldn't allow the plug to be pushed in so the bushing was locked in place and only way was to unscrew the rod with a hex key. The combination of "bushing compensator" and "one piece rod" wasn't on the gun ever - the original was one-piece rod with original bushing, then it was replaced with a two-piece rod and compensator.

[IVC]

WC does have a disclaimer of “may require minor fitting”. Compare the tab of the WC comp/bushing with the original and see where the oversized portion and go from there. Medium file then finish up with medium & fine grit emery.

I hate unscrewing 2 pc FLGR to disassemble. Lost some, found some on USPSA range. I use JB weld or red Loctite to make them permanent 1 pc and trim them to length allowing traditional bushing take down/disassembly.

UPDATE: I have just tried bushing compensator with the one-piece rod and it sort of works, but still requires tools. Here are the details.

The bushing compensator is "fat" all around and no matter which way I rotate it, there is not enough room for the plug. Cutting to make an opening would be cutting into the body of the compensator, something that is at best quite risky. So, leaving the compensator as-is, the only option is to rotate the bushing so it can be taken out under spring tension.

Here's the next problem (which I just now realized). The plug is in the way of the locking tab on the bushing when trying to rotate the bushing into the "remove" position. When the plug is depressed flush, the bushing only rotates one way, the way that will allow the plug to pop out and the way that rotates the tab away from the plug. Since this was new to me, I double checked on another 1911 and sure enough it was the same - only rotates one way until the plug is out.

By the time I figured this out, I already had the compensator on with the one-piece plug so I had to find a way to disassemble it now, one way or another. The reason I was able to assemble it in the first place is that the tab on the bushing was pushing the plug down as I pushed the compensator in, something I didn't notice at the time. So I figured a slim flat head screwdriver would work to press the edge of the plug past the flush position, then rotate the bushing into the "remove" position. It worked, but I'm not sure I want to mess with this in the future.

I'll keep the gun with no compensator and will store the compensator and the two-piece rod in a small bag so I can take them with me if I want to mess around for a few rounds. Too bad there isn't a good way to keep the one-piece rod and just swap bushings.