1911 Longslide Conversion

[GunsandBigUns]

I have a Kimber Custom II and was thinking of doing a 6" conversion. I was thinking of going with the Fusion Firearms top-end assembly and just swapping it in. Does anybody have experience doing this? Thanks.

[slixx1320]

I'm no expert but have done a little research on this a few years ago. I planned on doing one of mine but decided against it. After I priced everything, it wasn't worth it for a range toy.

If doing this conversion you'll have to decide what you want and how much you'd like to spend. Bull barrel or bushing style. Full length guide rod or GI style. Then whatever the ramp on your frame is cut to, buy a barrel according to that unless you plan to have your frame machined to accommodate the new ramp on the barrel. I'm also not entirely sure but the kimber's might have a swartz safety design in them so you'll also need new firing pin, extractor, and firing pin block etc.. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

But to keep it simple, you'll need..
new 6" slide
new guide rod and recoil system
new barrel w/ link if it's not attached

and possibly a gunsmith to fit the parts in if they're oversized.

I'll let the more experienced chime in but this is what I see.

[JTROKS]

It all depends on how much tolerance you want. Most folks get turned off by a rattle trap fit. For me if I invest $200 for slide plus costly options, Bomar, FCS, Ball cut, flat top, tri-top, beveled edges. Heavy barrel, or standard with match fit bushing can be another $200+. Don’t forget the extractor, slide stop, firing pin that you may want fitted and tuned, also the recoil spring/rod and plug.

If your stock 5” top end works great with your frame you want to do all the fitting on the slide. At the most you just want to polish the frame rails and not filing them reducing height and width. It’s an easy project for an experience 1911 gunsmith, but are you planning of doing all the work?

Back then when we had several virgin 1911 slides we would take the customer’s frame and try which slide just had a bit of friction, then take measurements to check if frame and slide rails are parallel. Some slides fit right in like they were machined for a match made in heaven. Worst jobs are the customers wanting tight tolerance match gun and brings in all the top brand parts, but fits like a rattle trap. Really hate the pinch and peen procedure. Accu-rail is so much smoother, tight tolerance and precise. If it loosens up after 100K rounds all you have to do is get a bigger rod.

Sorry I rambled too much. With that said, If you want a precision fit match grade 6” 1911 go oversized parts and have them fitted by a competent gunsmith. If you just want something that goes bang - happy go lucky that’s alright also. As long as the barrel is fitted properly you should get acceptable accuracy.

[redhemi]

It can be done but the two biggest things to think about are first the Swartz FPB system like slixx1320 said. With the FPB system you will have to remove the part in the frame that makes it work and second would be fitting all the parts together IE barrel to slide and slide to frame. I have a 6" bull barrel 1911 and the only thing I don't like about it is take down and reassembly. My suggestion is get the barrel bushing type it will be so much easier to take down. I suggest you call Fusion to make sure they have already fit the barrel to the slide if you want to do the conversion yourself. If your not going to do it yourself and don't have a gunsmith to do it for you Fusion can do it for you but it is going to cost more than it's worth in my opinion. I did have them do a 6" 9mm conversion for me about eight years ago and with parts and labor it was $1200 I would hate to think of what it would cost now. Good luck with your project.

[slixx1320]

I did have them do a 6" 9mm conversion for me about eight years ago and with parts and labor it was $1200 I would hate to think of what it would cost now. Good luck with your project.

That is why I opted not to proceed with the conversion. lol. Plus, if I was doing the conversion, I would've went with a ramp cut barrel which would've required a machinist to cut my frame, then refinish the frame. At the end it didn't make sense (at least to me) to dish out $1500 for a longslide conversion.

[walmart_ar15]

I have done many 6" long slide conversion for 1911s, bull, bushing type etc. and it is straight forward. Since you are buying a complete slide assembling from Fusion, just make sure they already fitted the barrel to the slide. It is also a good idea letting Fusion know you want to fit it to a Kimber Custom II, so they will let you know if there are any known issues in fitting.

The biggest fitting issues (if any) you will have is how well the slide fit to the frame rails, and how well the slide will lock up (barrel lug/link). If they don't fit right, unless you want to learn how to fit them, its best to have a competent 1911 smith fitted it for you.

Different folks will have different opinion, I also prefer the full length guide rode for this type of swap if you want to have ability to go back and forth between the 5" slide. With full length rode you can slide off the entire upper slide by just pulling the slide lock pin, slide on the 5" and put the pin back in.

[redhemi]

That is why I opted not to proceed with the conversion. lol. Plus, if I was doing the conversion, I would've went with a ramp cut barrel which would've required a machinist to cut my frame, then refinish the frame. At the end it didn't make sense (at least to me) to dish out $1500 for a longslide conversion.

I got lucky I had just picked up a SA Liteweight and it had a ramped barrel so they didn't have to mill the frame otherwise I might not have had it done.

[GunsandBigUns]

Thanks for the replies. Here's the item I'm considering: https://fusionfirearms.com/1911-top-...ngslide-carbon

Not sure if that changes anybody's opinion. I'm hoping I can just swap it in. I'll certainly take walmart_ar15's advice and give them a call before I pull the trigger.

[redhemi]

Thanks for the replies. Here's the item I'm considering: https://fusionfirearms.com/1911-top-...ngslide-carbon

Not sure if that changes anybody's opinion. I'm hoping I can just swap it in. I'll certainly take walmart_ar15's advice and give them a call before I pull the trigger.

That should work. The only thing would be slide to frame fit and as I said you will have to take out the FPB push rod in the frame. The only problem with taking the push rod out of the frame is if you want to use the 5" upper you would either have to put it back in or take out the FPB parts in the slide.

[slixx1320]

Thanks for the replies. Here's the item I'm considering: https://fusionfirearms.com/1911-top-...ngslide-carbon

Not sure if that changes anybody's opinion. I'm hoping I can just swap it in. I'll certainly take walmart_ar15's advice and give them a call before I pull the trigger.

Just gotta make sure the barrel they're selling has the correct feed ramp and is compatible with your frame. No mention anywhere on the site what ramp it uses unless I missed it.

Most 9/38/40/10 are typically ramped where as the 45 caliber are usually standard/non-ramped.

[MuayThaiJJ]

https://youtu.be/4gl-Ep7TJcA

I have done a lot of these for all kinds of 1911s and 2011s let me know if you need some advice


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[MuayThaiJJ]

PS-get lapping compound, a vice, rubber mallet and Brownells 1911 lug fitting kit


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[GunsandBigUns]

What is it that you are looking to accomplish by going to a longer top end, and what, if any, practical difference would that yield?

I just think it looks cool. At that cost, I'd say practical differences are nil.

[GunsandBigUns]

That should work. The only thing would be slide to frame fit and as I said you will have to take out the FPB push rod in the frame. The only problem with taking the push rod out of the frame is if you want to use the 5" upper you would either have to put it back in or take out the FPB parts in the slide.

Thanks - as long as the 6" functions reliably, I'll definitely be keeping it on.

[bwiese]

What is it that you are looking to accomplish by going to a longer top end, and what, if any, practical difference would that yield?

Significantly longer sight radius, and a bit more muzzle velocity.