Photographing Proof Marks

[keith1911]

Don't know if this is the correct forum, but I'll start here.

I have a S&W 29-3 that has proof marks on the inside of the crane, and the back of the cylinder. What is the best way to photograph them so I can blow them up to hopefully identify them since my eyesight isn't as good as it used to be?

I've got an iPhone 12 Pro to use.

Thanks for any help.

[saudadeii]

Get your lens close enough for a clear picture, then open the pic and pinch zoom to see the characters.

[ar15barrels]

Using your phone, zoom in about half way and then move the phone close enough to see what you are looking for.
The phone has a minimum focus distance so you won't be able to get close enough AND be in focus if you don't zoom in some.
The minimum focus distance gets longer and longer the more you zoom in so if you zoom in TOO MUCH, you won't be able to get close enough to see good detail either because the image gets so shaky.
About 1/2-3/4 zoom works good for me.

[ironhorse1]

If you have a macro lens then you can get clear pictures up close.

On Smith & Wessons they have model numbers, serial numbers and assembly numbers. The assembly numbers are only for use at the factory.

Also the numbers such as 29-3 refer to the model and engineering changes.

Finally remove the stocks where you may find markings such as B for blue or N for Nickel, dates or stars which may indicate factory return service work.

irh

[Killer Bee]

combat magnums welcome in any forum

you photographing to sell? reason I ask is I'm currently shopping for 19-3 specific year

if it's a 1K, 2K, or 3K and you're making an ad, please let me know..

also fully willing to help you identify it if you're just curious..

either way, let's see some pictures!

[keith1911]

Thanks all for the suggestions. I'll try it when I get home.

These are not the model number, assembly number or serial number. They're definitely proof marks.

[ironhorse1]

This should be interesting. Will wait to see what shows in the pictures.

irh

[keith1911]

[keith1911]

Identify proof marks

https://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?p=26567949#post26567949

[ironhorse1]

Those are German proof marks and Wischo is the importer.

84 is the year of proof and I assume the first mark is possibly an Eagle.

Pictures do no show clear detail but I found other posts about them at the S & W forum.

irh

Copied from the other forum. Misspellings and all.

WISHO is the former name of FRANKCONIA an german whosaler in gun ,riffle and hunting supply who have stores in center europe

[Woodworker2]

You can try using some chalk on the lettering to make them stand out better.

[SVT-40]

It looks like a Eagle over "N" proof Which was a standard proof for all guns in Germany after 1968. The "shield" with the pattern in it is the proof for Munich proof house, which did the proofing. The number in the shield is the year of proof, it looks like "84" for 1984.

The letters above the proof will be the importers name, (into Germany).

[SharedShots]

First, clean the lens of your phone's camera. It doesn't matter how good the focus is if the lens is dirty. Also make sure any positive or negative reliefs like proof marks, serial numbers etc are clean. I use 99% alcohol although electrical contact cleaner works just as well. If there is even hint of lube in the relief then while not apparent to you there can be slight reflections that make the picture hard to see.

Before I get into how to take a better pic for the topic, you can also do something really simple that lets you clearly see negative reliefs like stampings or engravings. Typewriter correction tape. They still sell it, get a roll and it will last forever but make taking pics of reliefs simple. Place the correction tape over the relief and rub over it. The correction tape will bring contrast to the relief (white) making it easier to photograph.

The one other way I have used that really help with marks in hard to get close to areas is modeling clay - roma plastina as its called. A bit of lube (cooking oil works much better than gun lube) dabbed into the relief (just a tiny bit) and then you can shape the clay into a form that lets you press it onto the relief and then the lube lets you remove it intact. Now you have a mirror of the mark. You can take a picture of that and flip it in the camera app or picture editing app and there you go. BTW, that clay is also great to remove smutz from serial numbers and roll marks if you just dab the mark with the clay.


The phone camera way:

Then, instead of using the phone's camera app or another camera app you download, use the magnifier app, many phones come with one as part of the bloatware but in this case the magnifier app has something the camera apps do not, the feature that lets you manually focus the camera. The magnifier app usually lets you take pictures.

With all the auto-focus and image enhancements built into the camera software on the phone the days of manually focusing the camera are gone except that the ability to do it still remains but isn't included in most phone camera app software. The magnifier app usually has this feature and lets you get those close up shots that otherwise are hard to achieve. It isn't the same as a macro because most macro focus features don't work well outside of a narrow range. The magnifier apps usually allow you to get to the distance just before the focus blurs out but then lets you manually focus as you get even closer. The other benefit is that instead of getting eyeball close you can stay out a bit farther and use the magnifier to close in while manually focusing for a clear shot.

It also helps to have the item on a stable setting so it isn't being held by your hand and moving around and then brace your palm or rest your hand while holding the phone to keep a steady distance and position. While the image stabilization features are good, nothing is much better than a steady hold.

[JTROKS]

I got the IPhone 12 Pro Max. Took this pic with just the light from TV.
041B3DDF-90A7-49A0-8FB3-DAD2D8395540.jpg

If you have white light use it wisely. Instead of letting the light hit flat shine it sideways to create shadow. Use a tripod to steady the lenses for clearer pics.